The sepcs say the following:
"LED Selections per 12" Board: (8) 6500K Cool White, (2) 625nm Red, (1) 470nm Blue, (1) 505nm Cyan, (1) 525nm Green, (1) 615nm Orange/Red, (1) 660nm Deep Red"
My questions are as follows.
If I where to reproduce this fitting would the order of the LED's (per 12" section) be a factor?
What would the correct order of the LED's be (per 12" section)?
What would the sequencing for sunrise/sunset dimming be? Would I just ramp-down/ramp-up all the led together or would it be another sequence with the individual LED colours?
If I were to reproduce this list I would eliminate the 625 red.
Then I would add one more each of the blue and 660 red and 525 green.
I would exchange them for some white ones.
The green/660 red/blue bulbs I would space at the one and two thirds point.
I would evenly space the white.
The 505 would be in the middle.
I would ramp all bulbs together.
I have been investigating this for some time so the order is to get even distribution but I have not gotten mine or have any so if another person who does states differently I likely would go/w them.
.jeffkrol is top on the list of "another person" that I mentioned.
Scientific...plants use two of the spectrums better than the others, green being the one least used. But it goes a long way towards visual appeal(green).
Since blue(best for plants at 460nm)and red(best for plants at 660 nm) will have much
more of their energy used actually by the plant than white, it just seems to me to be the better usage of the energy than white bulbs. But you don't want to overdo it as that will make the whole tank look red. Then the white breaks down into almost the entire spectrum and there is only a small part of that which is hardly used(green)by
the plants. When you exchange a red/blue for a white you are not loosing in overall visible light amount so when you have only two reds and 8 whites you will only emphasize the red a bit more to exchange two reds for whites giving 6/4 instead of 8/2.
I do not disagree/w what jeffkrol has said in any way. But I don't understand the channel part. I have seen those fixtures/w white and actinic just use the actinic for
the dawn/dusk part and it looks putrid(off color) in a freshwater tank to me.
For that reason only I suggested using all the bulbs for dusk/dawn if the system has ramp capabilities.
Even though I still use T8 for my 10g tanks(I have one of the poorest brands of LED in the closet because the light is too directional
and all goes straight down) I am reading every post/thread on LED that I see for info and I believe that jeffkrol is whom I have learned more from than any other here on LED lights.
But I don't understand the channel part. I have seen those fixtures/w white and actinic just use the actinic for
the dawn/dusk part and it looks putrid(off color) in a freshwater tank to me.
10000k lights will grow plants.. sometimes stunting them (little internode elongation) but yes the color is not "to taste" for most.. inc. myself..
My point was, given a choice between blue plus white or just white (and having plenty of white watts) white is the better choice..
Thanks BTW..
Stripping the blue channel and adding warm whites is way more optimal..for both plants and people.. esp. w/ ind. channel dimming.
I like the Dutch LED layout but do not love it..
If someone asked me to "improve" a Dutch w/ multichannel dimming and no LED substitution I'd suggest 3 channels. One w/ white and blue. one w/ all "reddish' things" one w/ green/cyan.
Alt. w/ all blue/green on one all reddish on another..
Adding warm white is a substitute for all these colors: green,red-orange,red and some 660nm red..There is no substitute for Cyan.or violet at this time, though white LED's based on violet (rather than RB) are available
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