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Xp4 stealth..

2K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  DiscusIt'sWhats4DinneR 
#1 ·
so i got an xp4 today for my 55 gallon, which is soon to be replaced by a custom 62" tank around 120 gallons.
it rocks, although it makes a bit of noise.

i use an old handbuild solid oak dresser for a stand, there are drawers on the bottom and no space to fit the filter, plus i dont want to look at it in the room *(or hear it.)

so i want to put this in the closet where it will be about 8 feet from the tank, using longer tubing routed through the wall.
this is where i keep my 20lb co2 cylinder, with the line routed under the carpet. i hate seeing wires or tubes.

Is it okay to postition the canister so far away? the tubing would have to run down to the floor for a few feet before raising up again to the in/outflows of the filter. how would i prime the filter with the tubing like that?
 
#3 ·
ahh welcome back.. :)
i had a feeling it probably wont work out that way.
i might test it and see how it works out.. but i have a bad feeling im going to have to find or make a little cabinet to stick this thing inside so i can keep it right to the side of the tank..
 
#5 ·
There will be the same amount of friction as there will be the same amount of water in contact with the hose.


It is all about pushing the water much farther than it was designed to be pushed.


It will still work, but, there wont be as much water passing through the media as it will not get the volume it is designed for.
 
#6 ·
what sort of pump would i use?

the tubing run would be a bit less than twice the length of those that come with the filter.

i would really like to see how much pressure is lost.
i could easily test this by hooking up the hoses and just watching to see how far water shoots from the spray bar.
 
#11 ·
There is always more friction with smaller diameter tubing because the ratio of volume to surface area is different. Relatively, 1/2 inch tubing has twice the friction of 1 inch tubing. Less friction means less head loss which means more flow.
 
#12 ·
If you oversize the pump, you can always valve it down. You can't however, valve up an undersized pump. I would also overshoot the size of the pump a little because of the bacterial slime that builds up in the plumbing. The slime can reduce flow by as much as 25%.
 
#15 ·
i think he meant to say to use larger hose diameter... maybe.

well im gonna go see where i can find some hose here locally today and try testing this out, if i see a big pressure drop im gonna be getting a pump.



the xp4 is claimed to flow 450 gph.
now if i am use a pump that flows 200 gph, would that even do anything?

it seems i would want a pump that flows about 450 gph or more.
 
#16 ·
the xp4 is claimed to flow 450 gph.
now if i am use a pump that flows 200 gph, would that even do anything?

it seems i would want a pump that flows about 450 gph or more.
Don't forget that the XP filters only flow about 54% of their advertised flow rate.
 
#17 ·
There have been discussions about "booster pumps", you can search and read all the speculations.

There are two answers to your question, and you need to choose one --

1) It is not recommended to add more tubing than what comes with the filter.

2) Even if it is not recommended, adding tubing might work for you and you can try it out. The worst thing that can happen is that the filter starts to collect air/O2 and gets pretty noisy. Best case, you lose a small amount of flow.
 
#24 ·
i knew that was coming :)

im careful not to get water on it, and it doesnt get scratches. plus it matches the rest of the room. this is solid oak...

it is made to look very "woody," its got knots and a rough texture to it. scratches can just be sanded out.

i figured out what i think i may do...
first i need to find out what chemicals will eat wood glue.
then i can take the bottom out of one one of the drawers and put glue it back up, into a bottomless drawer. that way the filter sits on the bottom drawer and goes through the second. the hoses can come through slits in the sides.

that way the changes are easily reversable.

il give you a pic.
 
#25 ·
you get the idea, so the hoses can come through a space between the slats on the side next to the subwoofer. you can see the canister is currently behind it.

weve got a bit of woodwork to do.
i am really starting to consider just using the drawer face mounted on hidden hinges inside again. i think i will do this.

who knows an easy way to eat up wood glue? ive heard hot water, goo gone, and wd 40. anyone have a better way?

i might be building a canopy that matches the dresser as best as i can get it.

i just have to think about what i want first.
the tank will be a 62"x18"x26" with no rims, just glass eurobracing up top and polished edges.
i will porbably be making a cool custom amano/ Tom Barr inspired hanging fixture instead.
a thick sheet of MDF with trim around the edges will be placed underneath the tank because the surface of the dresser is not flat, it has a grainy wavy wood texture. and we dont want to be cracking the tank ;)

can thin, like 1/4" styro sheets be found at home depot?

if this fails as a stand somehow, if i fill it 3/4 and it feels like it's waiting to break.. i can add bracing to a lot of points where it wont be visible unless the drawers are pulled out.

or if my altums dont make it through the first week, i might be setting up a nice paldularium :)
 

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#30 ·
who knows an easy way to eat up wood glue? ive heard hot water, goo gone, and wd 40. anyone have a better way?
I think you'd be better off taking the existing drawers out and building some false fronts to match rather than taking the drawers apart. What makes antiques charming and valuable is the original construction, that means the glues that were used, the construction techniques, the patina that can only be found on antique wood... If you value the dresser as an antique I wouldn't do anything to alter the construction or you risk damaging the bits and pieces that make the difference between an authentic antique and a cheap reproduction.

I'd go the route of hiding the filter in the closet and running the hoses through the wall now that I know your stand is actually a valuable antique.
 
#28 ·
Looks like a nice piece! Drawer bottoms are typically 1/4 in ply slid into a dado on the sides and then just tacked to the back to hold in place. Not difficult to remove if built that way.
I've seen people have canisters sitting beside the stand with a nice wooden cover to hide it.
 
#29 ·
Personally, I have no issue if you want to put a tank on a "family heirloom" type of furniture. What makes me cringe is the idea of a large tank sitting on a solid surface like that. You are just asking for that tank to crack and then you won't care where the filter is. Proper support for that type of tank is at the edges.

Dave
 
#31 ·
i just feel like it would be near impossible to make a face that looks similar.
so i really might go throuh the wall afterall. drywall is easier to fix.
plus then i wont hear the hum of the canister in the room.

i dont know whay i was thinking it would be a good idea to take apart one of the drawers.. i could probably get it back togther almost unnoticed but i think i will avoid altering this thing altogether.


most people probably think id have to be crazy to use this as an aquarium stand:)

i nevr really get it wet, and i wipe up any drops immedietly. those old school craftsmen didnt mess around either, that thing weighs at least 200 pounds while it's empty and setting a lot of weight on top of it doesnt bother it.
it is very strong.
 
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