Newbie, adding CO2 to my Nanocube.
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:10 PM   #1
GMINI
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Newbie, adding CO2 to my Nanocube.


Hi all, been reading for a while and I thought I'd join in, I kept tanks all my youth up to moving away to college and due to a gift of a eclipse 3 gal about a year and a half ago, I'm back. I'm up to 3 tanks now all planted, the eclipse 3, a nanocube, and a 10 with an eclipse (twin lamp) hood. I thought I'd post here as all my tanks are small.

It was an aponogeton uvalecus that made my collection grow, and was a nice small plant in the 3 gal till I must have moved to the right place and within 2 weeks had left little room for the poor fish (2 tetras).Then came the nanocube but the water current was too much for the aponogeton, so then came the eclipse10, still not a big enough for that plant.

The Nanocube has been the most work, I modified the filter so the water would actually have to move through all the media, and cut a few slots so the surface was skimmed too, then I drilled the return hole out to lessen the "hurricane" effect the stock set-up gave. I'm getting a bit of hair algae in the cube, and last weekend got a SAE and a few algae eating shrimp (to keep 4 tetras company) to control the algae.

I ordered a DIY Hagen co2 set that I'll add this next week, but I dont know what to expect, other than a ph drop, and with no surface agitation I'm a bit worried that it will be to much, a good test kit is in the same order. Any suggestions as to how the ease the transition to using co2 would be great. It has the stock 24w compact, but am willing to add more. Tell me what you all think, and good to meet everyone.
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Old 06-15-2004, 02:02 AM   #2
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I've been running the Hagen set in my cube for a few days now. I ran the pH up to 7.4/7.5 with Kh of 3 degrees with baking soda before starting injection. pH was 6.6 yesterday. Chuck's calculator has it at 24 ppm. The yeast that came with my set was way out of date and didn't proof, so I switched to the non-instant Fleischmann's with good results so far. Not a bubble per second, but one every 2 or 3 seconds. Don't be suprised if it takes the ladder a while to break in, mine still gets goofy every once in a while. I did add a bubble counter/CO2 scrubber in-line between the pot and the ladder, so that I don't accidentally inject yeast and sugar water solution if something goes awry. I'm not certain, but this may result in increased bubble size.

I've been reading the posts on the nano-reef forums about mods to the nanocube, but have been hesitant to start whacking mine up just yet. I'd be interested in hearing more about the mods you have made. Scuttlebutt on the reef sites is that JBJ is coming out with a new hood with 2 lights and fan(s)? to replace the original, but a retrofit kit would probably be cheaper. One reefer was running 110 watts on a nanocube!

So far, all I have in my cube is some java fern on driftwood and the beginnings of a javamoss rear wall as it was my intention to go with a lower maintenance, low- to mid- lighting level (also these are both pretty bombproof). I did adjust the slide switch on the pump all the way down and don't see too much surface rippling. Not that you would know it was there from the excuse for instructions that came with the tank.
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:07 AM   #3
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Regarding Aponogeton spp., I think they get too big for anything smaller than a 20. In fact, they would probably do well in a 20H. Is the nanocube a 12-gallon, by the way?
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Old 06-15-2004, 12:01 PM   #4
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Supposedly, but by the time I got 7 kg of flourite in, it only took 8-8 1/2 gallons to fill it up.
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:04 PM   #5
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zapus, thanks for the advice on getting the water "ready" with baking soda first. As far as naocube modifications, the first thing I did was to use some plastic and siliconed it over the slits that allow for the water to move through the walls, two on the first wall, two on the second, As the water now flows it first goes through some blue floss, carbon and a sponge on the bottom of the first chamber, sponge on the bottom of the second chamber and then up through the ceramic rings, flows over the second wall where I have the heater and a pump. I also sealed the bottom of the filter area and the divider walls as the were allowing water bypass. Does the co2 diffuser fit in the back? I was planning on removing the short last wall back there if I needed to.
Just above the intake area I cut three vertical slots to skim the surface, like what you see the reefers doing but I left some plastic at the top of the slits for strength. I too had closed the pump down because the small return hole made it act like a powerful jet, Even though it was funny to watch the fish I had is there (to cycle the tank) try to swim against that current, I used a dremel to widen that hole, leaving just a bit of plastic between the front hole and the side slot so some water still gets directed down and to the side. Ill try to get pics as they will tell the story much better.

gnome, yeah the apon. needs a big tank, but now it is in the back corner of the 10 gal, and the leaves cover 60% of the water surface, light gets to some crypts, on the other side and under it is a big piece of drift wood, and some nana, kind of creates a good effect.

They do say the nano is 12 gal, but I've read multiple places that it is less, I like it because its curved and glass, and the via aqua are mucho $s!
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:13 PM   #6
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When you did all this work on the filter to cut down the "hurricane " affect, did you realize the pump has three settings and it is set on the highest when you get it? All you have to do it push the switch on the pump to a lower setting....

The water does pass thru all the media in all three chambers, I am not sure what you meant. Why would you need a surface skimmer in a freshwater tank?

I am really confused by what you are doing. If you keep the tank filled with water, there is no surface tension at all. That is one of the most attractive things about the tank, no surface tension means no C02 loss, no stupid bio wheel. The current should prevent any surface scum, but in a freshwater tank, who cares anyway.

Quote:
Supposedly, but by the time I got 7 kg of flourite in, it only took 8-8 1/2 gallons to fill it up.
Well, YEAH! Thats no different than ANY tank!

Here is mine:

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Old 06-15-2004, 08:18 PM   #7
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Before I set up the cube I filled it full of water to see how the filter flows, and noticed the walls separating the filter compartments were not solid and allowed water to bypass some f the media, so I siliconed in thin plastic strips, I got the idea from what the reefers are doing with their nanos. then I set it up. I could only find "Plant Success" locally, so I used this as substrate. When I started to add plants it was hard to keep them down with the power of the pump pushing 100+GPH through the small outlet. so yes I did turn it down and it wasn't so bad. I decided to redo the substrate when every time I moved anything the plant success substrate would cause a major mess. I also always had a film on the top so when I drained it to remove the substrate (and replace it with eco-complete) I modified the intake wall with a few vertical slots, just above the normal intake. I also expanded the hole so I could keep the filter flowing at around 100 GHP. Now the fish in there don't have to constantly swim against such a hard current and I can keep the filter flowing at a good pace, and there are no stagnant areas in the filter. The surface is not disturbed so I don't think I'm going to loosed co2, once it is added.

Glad to hear of more people using the nonocube, I like all the pics, I only found a few mentions of them in a search on here, any new info would be appreciated...
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Old 06-15-2004, 11:27 PM   #8
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Squeezing the ladder into the back would probably call for some minor surgery. You could probably fit a gravel vacuum reactor in back without any, but it would be more difficult to monitor back there. My ladder is currently residing on the rear left side, but I'm not sure that I'll keep it there. Thanks for the rundown on your mods. When I saw the bioballs in the back I was expecting some sort of wet/dry trickle system. You might want to consider ditching the carbon as I've read that it tends to strip trace elements from the water needed by plants. Welcome to the forum, BTW.
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