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Old 08-24-2014, 08:11 AM   #526
Curt_Planted
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I was playing around tonight with my remote and adjusting my two lights for different color accents and found it looks amazing with different colors on the lights (one red one orange-yellow so it gives a graduated color scheme). I also found the adjustment much smoother by turning the lights on one at a time.

So the question is, how can the IR remote library be edited to accept an argument in the controller code to transmit from two different IR leds to allow independent control of two different lights? Obviously the arduino is capable of transmitting pwm on more than one pin but after working through the library I couldn't find a clear path to defining the led pin from function inputs. I got as far as the mark and space functions in the cpp file and then couldn't trace back clearly to the led definition in the .h file. I'm new to editing libraries in general so hopefully someone on here knows this library better than I. Any suggestions? I was thinking creating a second duplicate library that uses a different PIN could be a dirty way to do it, but not sure if the function name and variable conflicts could be easily avoided... perhaps by renaming the class for the function we are using?

Bump: Just had an idea for a hardware solution that would be pretty simple: just apply a voltage to transistor from a different pin to change which led is activated. Lol, or I could still dive into the code...
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:02 PM   #527
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Hi Guys,

Has anyone tried to apply this to the Ecoxotic E-Series yet? Any compatibility between that and this Current Satellite+ ?
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:24 PM   #528
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Originally Posted by ipkiss View Post
Hi Guys,

Has anyone tried to apply this to the Ecoxotic E-Series yet? Any compatibility between that and this Current Satellite+ ?
Yes, it works great, but the remote codes are different. It's the same codes, but mapped to different buttons. I'm pretty sure that power is the same, but most of the rest are different. I only bothered to decode the ones I use:

REDUP = 0x20DF0AF5
REDDOWN = 0x20DF38C7
GREENUP = 0x20DF8A75
GREENDOWN = 0x20DFB847
BLUEUP = 0x20DFB24D
BLUEDOWN = 0x20DF7887
WHITEUP = 0x20DF32CD
WHITEDOWN = 0x20DFF807
M1 = 0x20DF58A7
M2 = 0x20DF9867
M3 = 0x20DF18E7
M4 = 0x20DFD827

If you need to decode any more, this sketch with an IR receiver works perfectly. Just open a serial window and shoot away:

Code:
#include <IRremote.h> // use the library
int receiver = 2; // pin 1 of IR receiver
IRrecv irrecv(receiver); // create instance of 'irrecv'
decode_results results;
void setup()
{
  Serial.begin(9600); // for serial monitor output
  irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the receiver
}
void loop()
{
  if (irrecv.decode(&results)) // have we received an IR signal?
  {
    Serial.println(results.value, HEX); // display it on serial monitor in hexadecimal
    irrecv.resume(); // receive the next value
  }  // Your loop can do other things while waiting for an IR command
}
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:50 PM   #529
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AnotherHobby,

Thanks and that's great news! I'll have to take a serious look at building one of these then. It's a shame the thunderstorm mode on the e-series cycles so fast. Is it the same on the satellite+? Was contemplating someone's idea of doing thunderstorms when its raining but the cycle in and out of full light just seems a bit silly. Since we're not able to reprogram the ramp timer itself, I don't imagine there being some sort of override is there?
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:36 AM   #530
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Indychus, Want to give u ur props on this, if stuff like this weren't a complete mystery to me I have one of these thrown together this weekend! i have 3 of these lights and was real disappointed in the dual controller, but this seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. Now i just have to find some one to throw one of these to gather for me.
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:32 PM   #531
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Speaking of multiple lights, has anyone tried that yet with the controller?

I have four, and also one. The one I'm controlling quite happily, but the four I am still using with a remote as I get the stand finished. And even with the remote, they are not working consistently. At least one seems to keep forgetting learned codes, for example (the M1-4 keys). And if I use the power switch I can never get them to all turn on or off together, then they start alternating.

Note: I try to use the M4 key, programmed to "fully dim" instead of on/off so as to avoid this alternating issue. That's why forgetting their programming is an issue.

Are people having good luck controlling multiple with the same schedule?
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Old 09-11-2014, 02:55 PM   #532
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Originally Posted by Linwood View Post
Speaking of multiple lights, has anyone tried that yet with the controller?

I have four, and also one. The one I'm controlling quite happily, but the four I am still using with a remote as I get the stand finished. And even with the remote, they are not working consistently. At least one seems to keep forgetting learned codes, for example (the M1-4 keys). And if I use the power switch I can never get them to all turn on or off together, then they start alternating.

Note: I try to use the M4 key, programmed to "fully dim" instead of on/off so as to avoid this alternating issue. That's why forgetting their programming is an issue.

Are people having good luck controlling multiple with the same schedule?
I controlled 2 lights with one controller. I didn't control them independently, so they both got the same IR commands. You need to make sure that both light's IR receivers pointed accurately at the IR emitter.

Mine have never forgot learned codes. I'd contact Current for support on that. They should repair/replace it.

Both of my controllers (the first one I made, and my iAqua one) do ramping with these lights. They aren't 100% responsive to every single RGBW up and down command, so I use M1-M4 in-between the ramps to keep the lights from drifting. If you want to do ramping this way, I can explain in more detail.

Also, the on/off remote code never failed for me in the several months I ran two lights. They never got out of sync that way. That's how I controlled power.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:43 PM   #533
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Originally Posted by AnotherHobby View Post
I controlled 2 lights with one controller. I didn't control them independently, so they both got the same IR commands. You need to make sure that both light's IR receivers pointed accurately at the IR emitter.

Mine have never forgot learned codes. I'd contact Current for support on that. They should repair/replace it.

Both of my controllers (the first one I made, and my iAqua one) do ramping with these lights. They aren't 100% responsive to every single RGBW up and down command, so I use M1-M4 in-between the ramps to keep the lights from drifting. If you want to do ramping this way, I can explain in more detail.

Also, the on/off remote code never failed for me in the several months I ran two lights. They never got out of sync that way. That's how I controlled power.
I think the power may resolve itself when I have the receivers in a fixed position. Right now I have them wire tied together. But the power on/off is really annoying, as there is no fix for it really other than either (a) try to isolate the receiver, which is surprisingly hard by hand, or (b) unplug the ones you don't want to control first. Both annoying.

But yes, the M1-4 are what i use to keep the repeated send in sync as well. I've got a "program" sequence I send to it which sets a specific value and saves it. Works well on one. Haven't yet tried it on four.

I am not trying to control them independently. Though... now that you mention it... if I can't get this overly reliable I may just do that. Build a little opaque container for each one and its corresponding transmitted (heck, I could just tape them together). Then at least the program could deal with each separately if needed. But that wasn't the intent.

yes, it's specifically that it "forgets" the M4 code. And this from the remote control. It will work for a while, then one evening when I go to turn off (I use M4 = all dim fully) one won't turn off. Isolate it and test, and it's been reprogrammed to something white -- not sure exactly what, it doesn't look full on. So I switch to white, down-repeatedly on white to fully off, press it four seconds....

Half the time at this point after about 2-3 seconds it comes on again, as though it's not continuously sending (at this point I'm holding both remote and receiver in one hand). And I start over.

Half the time it works, and then for a while M4 will turn it off.

Until the next time.

I need to start paying attention and see if it is always the same one. Frankly with four I loose track. But yes, you are right -- maybe it is just defective.

I've got the new Pi to build the controller but as I haven't figured out the details on the stand and plumbing cover, I don't know where anything will be positioned, so I have not wanted to wire it up. In fact one thing I want to test is whether it can control it from about 20' away, where I have wired network, so I don't have to use wireless (which with the one I got for the Pi runs really hot). So still experimenting. Sorry, rambling...

Anyone else try doing multiple and have issues, or is it just me?

PS. I sure wish manufacturers would get away from toggles -- an "on" and "off" is so much more reliable!
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:53 PM   #534
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Happened to me once as well. I have the Pi controlling two of them. I reprogrammed them separately (plug one in, turn it off, turn it on, program M4 with the remote that came with it, repeat with second) and I have not had an issue since.

The first time I programmed them I did both at the same time with the same remote.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:45 PM   #535
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I found your post @ 2 weeks ago and was inspired to make one. So far I have put it together minus the LCD display (hope to get it today). It’s been running V3.6 for the past 2 days with no problems. My hats off to all that have provided guidance, directions and pictures. Thank you.
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:22 AM   #536
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Hi guys! I'm just about ready to jump on the bandwagon. Can someone confirm that the parts I've selected will get the job done before I pull the trigger?

Arduino UNO R3 board with DIP ATmega328P - $28
http://amzn.com/B006H06TVG

SainSmart I2C RTC DS1307 AT24C32 Real Time Clock module+board for AVR ARM PIC - $9.20
http://amzn.com/B006J4FZW4

SainSmart LCD Module For Arduino 20 X 4, PCB Board, White On Blue - $12.29
http://amzn.com/B003B22UR0

Super-bright 5mm IR LED - 940nm - $1.50 (for two... Or I may just buy local)
http://www.adafruit.com/products/387

So just over $50 for the majority of what I need.

Resistors (local purchase, once I confirm what's needed)

I have plenty of USB chargers and cables so I think power is not an issue. I have a couple of different soldering irons/guns (minor wiring, been nearly 30 years since I soldered a circuit board but I doubt much has changed). I think some wire for jumpers and perhaps a small breadbox is all I need to get going?
So I'm waiting for the iAqua project to get a little more finalized before I really dig in (also, o2surplus' shield to save me 3 days of soldering!) to that beast of a project.

And the thought occurs that I ordered two Arduino Megas just so I had another to play with. If I add a $12 LCD (and even that is optional), I'm wondering if I use the spare Mega and IR LED, I may be able to get THIS project up and running in the next few days?

Only problem is all of Indychus' photos on how to actually assemble of this stuff are gone from the early pages of this thread. Does anyone have them archived, or is there some way I can get some help putting it all together?
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:26 AM   #537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kman View Post
So I'm waiting for the iAqua project to get a little more finalized before I really dig in (also, o2surplus' shield to save me 3 days of soldering!) to that beast of a project.

And the thought occurs that I ordered two Arduino Megas just so I had another to play with. If I add a $12 LCD (and even that is optional), I'm wondering if I use the spare Mega and IR LED, I may be able to get THIS project up and running in the next few days?

Only problem is all of Indychus' photos on how to actually assemble of this stuff are gone from the early pages of this thread. Does anyone have them archived, or is there some way I can get some help putting it all together?
Sounds like you have the right parts, I'll put together a schematic for you, compared to the iAqua it is real simple.
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:37 AM   #538
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Sounds like you have the right parts, I'll put together a schematic for you, compared to the iAqua it is real simple.
I tried to hook up the LCD tonight... Total fail .... If you can share the schematic it would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:38 AM   #539
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Sounds like you have the right parts, I'll put together a schematic for you, compared to the iAqua it is real simple.
I believe you have the same LCD that I used, this is what I used to get it to work:

#define I2C_ADDR 0x3f // I2C address of PCF8574A
#define BACKLIGHT_PIN 3
#define En_pin 2
#define Rw_pin 1
#define Rs_pin 0
#define D4_pin 4
#define D5_pin 5
#define D6_pin 6
#define D7_pin 7

LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(I2C_ADDR,En_pin,Rw_pin,Rs_pin,D4_pin,D5_pin,D6 _pin,D7_pin, BACKLIGHT_PIN, POSITIVE);

If I did it right there is also a schematic attached based on the UNO, if you use the Mega, SCL & SDA pins will be different. Also AH uses D9 on Mega for the IR so that might also have to change. Hope this helps. I added temp and PH and have been using it while I wait for my new screen and shield to make it from China.

These are the libraries used:
#include <Wire.h>
#include <RTClib.h>
#include <Time.h>
#include <TimeAlarms.h>
#include <IRremote.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
#include <LCD.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Arduino.pdf (194.9 KB, 28 views)
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Last edited by theknight; 09-16-2014 at 02:23 AM.. Reason: Added libraries
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Old 09-16-2014, 04:21 AM   #540
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Is that the schematic, or is that for theknight?

What I need is the electronics / Arduino for dummies. It's been 30 years since I did anything more complicated than solder ends and wires together. I have all the parts, but I literally don't know what to do with them (I've never used a breadboard, for instance) It seems like (from the descriptions) Indychus' photos showed more detail, but they're gone.

Does anyone have photos of the breadboarded layout?

Edit: Nevermind... Indychus' photos have mysteriously returned! It's a little late tonight, but between those photos and some googling on breadboards, I think I have a general handle on it. I'll see if I can give it a go tomorrow.

Last edited by kman; 09-16-2014 at 07:37 AM.. Reason: Photos are back!
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