120 Gallon ADA "like", ditched, Dutch style new pics 137 - Page 147
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:56 PM   #2191
exv152
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The tank looks great. I like how you've used smaller leafed plants in the forefront like HC, UG and riccardia. It adds more green and softens the overall look. And I don't mind the new fixture, it kinda works.
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:51 PM   #2192
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New fixture has a few VERY good attributes:

1.
26" wide, so I get a nicer even spread over the entire area. Less intensity, but better spread and angles of light hitting the leaves and penetrating deeper into the canopy. I'm not really looking for MORE PAR, just even PAR.

2.
Cost, 190$ out the door. ATI: about 800$.

3.
Weight, while larger, it weights LESS.

4.
I can modify and put notched into the light frame to hold the wire suspension I have from the old ATI. This will look much nicer than the old ugly black cords.

5. I can gut the ballast out of the old ATI fixture and replace with standard E ballast. Then use just like a non dimmer ATI fixture. Someone will buy that for a decent price I figure.

6. Since the PAR is LESS and the Spread is wider...............I can lower the fixture down right above the top of the tank. The old ATI, I could do that also, but I'd only light the back 2/3'rds or the front 2/3's of the tank, not the entire tank.


the Bad?

1. Uglier and less discrete

2. Non dimming unless I used dimmable ballast and used an apex controller etc.



Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Centromochlus View Post
How old was that ATI fixture?
Maybe not quite 2 years?

Replaced 2 ballast in it during that time.
My other ATI's have all worked without issues.

Just this one was very problematic.
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:07 PM   #2193
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That sucks about your light but at least you have the ability to find one that works locally. No pot farmers in Nebraska so I would have to order online or drive to Colorado where there is plenty of growers. I have heard of a few people having problems with their ATI fixtures which is sad because at their cost they should be more reliable.

I wish TEK fixtures would come out with a dimmable fixture because they are well built lights. I wonder if the dimming causes the ballast to fail after time. Maybe the reason there isn't more dimmable t5's on the market.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:25 PM   #2194
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Tek is worse than this new light I have. Cost more, but it's thinner than this one. So aesthetics is the best thing for the Tek, the light output was 50% LESS than the ATI and the fixtures have the same bulb spacing and hood thickness.

I'm not impressed and had a few Tek's, they never broke however
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:29 AM   #2195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umarnasir335 View Post
Dang, Tom is completely different in real life than what I imagined him to be :P...
Yeah lol I expected to see Steve Wozniak
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:46 AM   #2196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post

My other ATI's have all worked without issues.

Just this one was very problematic.
Good to hear. I bought a new 4x24w dimmable ATI about a month ago and haven't even had the chance to put bulbs in it yet... your post was making me reconsider my investment... hopefully i won't have similar issues with mine!
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:11 PM   #2197
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wow! the new light shows of the colors more I think. I have to ask, how much par at the substrate with the new light? I have a 180g that currently has about 60 par and I am able to add 2 shop lights to it that would add about another 20 par each and I wanted to know if that would be a good idea or not to go that high of light. what do you think?
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:12 PM   #2198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 180g View Post
wow! the new light shows of the colors more I think. I have to ask, how much par at the substrate with the new light? I have a 180g that currently has about 60 par and I am able to add 2 shop lights to it that would add about another 20 par each and I wanted to know if that would be a good idea or not to go that high of light. what do you think?

Are you pumping the co2 in? Cause without co2 I would go any higher.
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:15 AM   #2199
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I currently don't have a co2 system but I am getting one. I don't have the lights on yet any ways since there are no plants.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:25 AM   #2200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DvanK View Post
Yeah lol I expected to see Steve Wozniak
I'm in much better shape. But he's richer.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 180g View Post
I currently don't have a co2 system but I am getting one. I don't have the lights on yet any ways since there are no plants.
Go tip top with CO2, and ghetto with light, not tip top max with the lights, then Ghetto or none with the gas.

Most learn this the hard way.

My tank could not exist without darn good CO2.
High light is optional.

It only makes things harder with bad CO2 and algae management.
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:28 PM   #2201
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Happy birthday TOM!!
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:36 PM   #2202
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thanks for the advice tom! what ppm of co2 do you keep this tank at?
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:55 AM   #2203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 180g View Post
thanks for the advice tom! what ppm of co2 do you keep this tank at?
55ppm or thereabouts.

A bit less than my 180.

But the O2 is higher 7.5 at night, 11 during the end of the light cycle.
Pretty high.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:35 PM   #2204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
55ppm or thereabouts.



A bit less than my 180.



But the O2 is higher 7.5 at night, 11 during the end of the light cycle.

Pretty high.

How are you able to measure your O2 ppm?
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:45 PM   #2205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridHerp View Post
How are you able to measure your O2 ppm?
Hach HQ40 and a HACH LDO O2 probe calibrated.
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