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Old 06-19-2014, 07:25 AM   #586
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Originally Posted by aquarist View Post
I've had one of the 30 gallons filled on the top shelf already, so I know it'll hold three at least, I can sit them long ways then and fill the shelf. Will be getting the aquariums probably next weekend and we will see =D. I don't plan on putting more than the shelf can hold, ideally six would fit up their perfectly but if it does not look safe I wouldn't risk it.
I have to agree with hoppy..... That construction doesn't look sturdy enough for the kind of weight loads all that water and glass will put on it, especially over time.

What are those black brackets made of? ABS plastic?

At the very least I highly recommend adding a full center brace running top to bottom. All that weight will be pushing down on those slats, bowing them and eventually popping them away from the sides.

Good luck with it

And for the fellow with the black stand, I also agree that extra bracing of 2x4 rectangles is a really good idea.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:13 PM   #587
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:53 PM   #588
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Here are my 4 DIY stands. Spent around $50 per stand maybe a bit more. Not the cheapest, but I really like they way they turned out.

The first two I built were from scratch. They are identical in construction with the exception of being drilled mirrored to one anther. That way if I put them back to back the holes (more or less) line up, and if they are next to eachother, then the holes are in the middle. Each holds a 20L above a 10 gallon with a small storage section underneath. Also the top is removable to made the 20s easier to rescape.





The second pair are 1/2 DIY and 1/2 recycled furniture. They were originally TV stands out of a hotel that was remodeling. Paid $30 for them, cut the top off and shortened the "T.V" section and reattached the top (but with more clearance than in the first stands because they were a bit tight to work on). Then built a new top modeled after the removable top from the first stands (since the design worked out great on the first stands). These stands each hold a 40 over a 20L with plenty of drawer space underneath. Only draw back with these is they are not drilled to hold the tank pumps etc underneath in a drawer, but HOB filters will eliminate most of that issue.

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Old 06-19-2014, 02:31 PM   #589
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Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.
This is something everyone should keep in mind when designing a stand.
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:35 PM   #590
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Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.
You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs.

13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.

Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.




You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:53 PM   #591
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I have to agree with hoppy..... That construction doesn't look sturdy enough for the kind of weight loads all that water and glass will put on it, especially over time.

What are those black brackets made of? ABS plastic?

At the very least I highly recommend adding a full center brace running top to bottom. All that weight will be pushing down on those slats, bowing them and eventually popping them away from the sides.

Good luck with it

And for the fellow with the black stand, I also agree that extra bracing of 2x4 rectangles is a really good idea.
The black brackets are ABS I believe, it is a shelf system and was pretty easy to put together. I deigned it similar to what I saw in big discus fish farms, they usually use much larger tanks then I am planning to use and looks like it is a simple 2x4 shelf system most of the time. I may add a center brace or I may not depending on what it looks like when I start adding weight to the top shelf, right now as you can tell in the photos the top shelf is empty but the bottom shelf holds the weight just fine. I am also going to anchor it to the wall, it'll be hard to tip it over as it sits now with all the weight on the bottom but better safe than sorry. I also took a good look at my 180 gallon aquarium stand that was bought from a store, it's made out of really thin wood and there's no center support, so not sure if I will even need one. Here is a picture of a fish farm's aquarium stand, the picture isn't the best but you can get the idea. If you google house of disus you will see a video that shows their aquarium racks better, seems like each tank is held up with four 2x4s around the edge of the aquarium and that's it. I am not saying my shelf is perfect but I am pretty sure with a few minor tweaks it will do exactly what I've designed it to do.

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Old 06-19-2014, 06:57 PM   #592
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Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.


I would just replace the screws/nails with some 4" lag bolts. My 8' long 2x4 shelf is holding roughly 1000+ lbs worth of wheels with zero issues.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:00 PM   #593
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Sounds like you have everything under control

Just the doomsday prepper in me lol. Better safe than sorry... I can't imagine how id feel if I came home and found my tanks all smashed.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:02 PM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tvadna View Post
You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs.

13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.

Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.




You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...
You're comparing a bolt to a nail. Apples and orangutans. You have nothing to prevent racking and you really can't discount the laws of physics vis a vis leverage. That bolt can't pull out and to an extent will prevent racking.

As for the comparison to the bullet proof vest we might really go with regarding every gun as loaded. It may not be necessary but it is surely prudent.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:18 PM   #595
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29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:45 PM   #596
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29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.
Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.

What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:21 AM   #597
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Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.

What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.
I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:59 PM   #598
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How come you did a 90 hose bard to the black unit (UV?) vs going straight?
I took the last 3/4" ID straight hose barb fitting from the shelf in my local homedepot, and no more in stock, decided not to wait, so pick up the 3/4" ID hose barb elbow adapter instead.

not really care it is straight or 90 degree fittings/adapters, because I use 1" or 3/4" PVS pipe and adapters, much bigger diameter than the original 12mm to 16mm ID hose for the return pump.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:13 AM   #599
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My ADA copy I built with a friend...

There is now a foam pad between the tank and the stand to even out the imperfections in the plywood I used.





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Old 06-24-2014, 06:40 PM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_ranger View Post
I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.
For any future cutting where you put it together then need to make the door another method is to mark it out then scribe, with a utility knife, around it. Two scribes the blade width apart will precut the top fibers and make for a cleaner cut. Another method would be to raise the blade up so it is just scoring the top veneer. Then come back and make the final cut. In all cases the blade really should be no deeper than the wood thickness plus an 1/8" to 1/4" more.
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