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Old 03-19-2014, 07:26 PM   #181
vvDO
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I took a couple of photos of the tank, at one end, both with and without the red and green LED strips powered. As you can see, if there is an effect of the red and green, it is a very small one. So, the color rendition from just the cool white LEDs is very good, in my opinion, and the red and green ones are not of any significant benefit. If I had used 5630 LEDs instead of the 1/4 power ones, there might have been a benefit.
It would be difficult to capture any difference on a digital camera. Did you use a manual mode with a set color temperature? You would also need to turn off any internal image processing.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:09 AM   #182
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It would be difficult to capture any difference on a digital camera. Did you use a manual mode with a set color temperature? You would also need to turn off any internal image processing.
No, instead I used my eyes to judge the difference before I took the photos. I couldn't see the slightest difference. And, my only reason for using the red and green LEDs was for the visual effect. I really don't understand why this all cool-white LED light gives so much better colors in the fish than my 50-50 cool-warm white LED light did. But, it does, and the effect isn't at all subtle.
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:51 AM   #183
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I read somewhere while researching these lights for aquariums that they are very dependant on how they are manufactured which is one of the disadvantages of buying them. You really don't know what your getting until you fire them up. Even from the same manufacturer there may be differences in light output and color don't really know how true this is but it's a possibility
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:40 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by walzon1 View Post
I read somewhere while researching these lights for aquariums that they are very dependant on how they are manufactured which is one of the disadvantages of buying them. You really don't know what your getting until you fire them up. Even from the same manufacturer there may be differences in light output and color don't really know how true this is but it's a possibility
That is correct.. That is why manufactures "bin" their LED's and even those are a range..
As to the "cheapies" they generally are just ungraded.. From my limited experience it is more different batch vendor related than "lot" purchase.. But that lot though fairly consistent will vary from spec.. if you get my drift..

If you buy warm white LED's you most likely will receive anything from 3500k-3000k for example..
Quote:
Even with all of the R&D efforts underway and the billions
of dollars spent within the semiconductor industry to minimize this production variation, the end result
is a process that is not capable of producing highly consistent and tightly controlled production of LEDs. So,
in an effort to maximize yields (and with a knowledge that the lighting industry has a wide range of needs),
LED manufacturers sort their production into lumen, color and sometimes voltage bins. This allows luminaire
manufacturers to select only those LEDs that meet their acceptable performance ranges while maximizing the
overall usage of each of the bin ranges for the LED supplier.
http://lithonia.acuitybrands.com/Fil...ningandLED.pdf

Of course this is the same for florescent as well......but since you have a variation in usually a few (compared to dozens of LED's) who would notice..
Quote:
This standard specifies a bin size that approximately correlates
with the degree of color variation we experience today with commercial CFL sources. This allows for
some degree of perceivable variation in color temperature among white light sources.
http://www.lighting.philips.com/pwc_...ed-lamps6.html
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.b2I&cad=rja
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:12 PM   #185
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No, instead I used my eyes to judge the difference before I took the photos. I couldn't see the slightest difference. And, my only reason for using the red and green LEDs was for the visual effect. I really don't understand why this all cool-white LED light gives so much better colors in the fish than my 50-50 cool-warm white LED light did. But, it does, and the effect isn't at all subtle.
Odd isn't it................. I think fish pigments and scales just like blue light..




Of course it may have to do more w/ physics than pigments.. w /shorter wavelength blue creating more refraction.. just spit balling here.. My neon tetra and sunset platys were quite "red" under 10000k + actinic blue light..
Orange platy below though
http://jcs.biologists.org/content/88/5/663.full.pdf


Last edited by jeffkrol; 03-21-2014 at 01:11 AM.. Reason: guessing
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:25 PM   #186
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I've recently purchased some 5630 LED strips from ledlightinghut. I've got them on top of a 6x2x2, doubt they will grow anything however it's enough to light at least the front and middle of the tank depending on where you put it. I used all 5 meters and 100 watts in total.
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:25 PM   #187
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I've recently purchased some 5630 LED strips from ledlightinghut. I've got them on top of a 6x2x2, doubt they will grow anything however it's enough to light at least the front and middle of the tank depending on where you put it. I used all 5 meters and 100 watts in total.
That isn't nearly enough light. The minimum light intensity needed for growing aquatic plants requires about 6 adjacent strips of that tape, which would be about 2 of the 5 meter tapes. This is with the light sitting right on top of the tank.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #188
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I just picked up a Fluval LED light housing that I'm going to try to use for these SMD strips. My LFS yanked out the existing strips and put them into other fixtures. I figured it would be a nice foundation to work with. It already has switches build into the housing as well as blue moon lights (which are pretty pathetic but they're there).

I'm pretty sure the original lights are 5630 strips or something similar. I noticed they put the strips in glass tubes to protect them from water. Do you think it would be beneficial to do this with my home made version? Or would it inhibit the light power?
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:47 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by thelub View Post
I just picked up a Fluval LED light housing that I'm going to try to use for these SMD strips. My LFS yanked out the existing strips and put them into other fixtures. I figured it would be a nice foundation to work with. It already has switches build into the housing as well as blue moon lights (which are pretty pathetic but they're there).

I'm pretty sure the original lights are 5630 strips or something similar. I noticed they put the strips in glass tubes to protect them from water. Do you think it would be beneficial to do this with my home made version? Or would it inhibit the light power?
I would just use the waterproof version of the strips, which only cost a little more. I definitely wouldn't put them in glass tubes, because of potential heat build-up problems.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:08 AM   #190
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I wish I had read this before spending 2+ hours looking through auctions trying to figure out which strip to buy. It seems I chose wisely(5639). However I did see 7020 strips which get even brighter.. But the price is quite steep at the moment.

Thank you Hoppy. You made the next 2-3 weeks a little easier for me to handle knowing that this should give me enough light..
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:18 PM   #191
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This is a neat idea. I've done a lot of research on the GU-10 builds and they start off cheap, but by the end the $$ seems like I might as well be buying a ready made light. This build seems pretty cost effective, especially if you've got the power supply(ies). Hoppy, what are your thoughts in the regard?
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:56 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanish View Post
This is a neat idea. I've done a lot of research on the GU-10 builds and they start off cheap, but by the end the $$ seems like I might as well be buying a ready made light. This build seems pretty cost effective, especially if you've got the power supply(ies). Hoppy, what are your thoughts in the regard?
I built my light this way primarily because it is a cheap way to get a good LED light, with so many LEDs that the light is pretty uniform. My light continues to work very well. After I finished this project I found that I already had a couple of very usable 12 VDC adapters I could have used, to cut the price even more. My "junk" isn't at all well organized so I often buy something I already have.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:42 PM   #193
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[QUOTE=Hoppy;5888898My "junk" isn't at all well organized so I often buy something I already have.[/QUOTE]

You too.. Sometimes, in terms of time, it is more "cost efficient"... LOL.
Of course I overpay myself..
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:48 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanish View Post
This is a neat idea. I've done a lot of research on the GU-10 builds and they start off cheap, but by the end the $$ seems like I might as well be buying a ready made light. This build seems pretty cost effective, especially if you've got the power supply(ies). Hoppy, what are your thoughts in the regard?
Personal opinion you break even (or modestly cheaper ) but w/ exactly what you want..AND you know how to change it..

Cheaper than buying x brand then deciding you like the color or features of y brand better.. ect


The bigger expense is in the "research".. like I now have probably (and I'm surely not alone) have a $150 in "drivers" I'm no longer using.. Of course they have some resale value and "may" be used in the future.. but certainly no guarantees of that..

For the first person, it is never cheap..
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:58 PM   #195
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Hoppy, great build! It's really neat to see that cheap ebay LEDs are useable.

By any chance have you re-run your PAR tests recently to see if the LEDs are dropping in intensity? If so, how many hours and at what brightness do you think they have been running them at? Thanks!
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