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Old 04-21-2013, 04:23 PM   #166
D-Linquent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
it is fine from 40 to 38 psi in 15 hours. if it is a slow leak on LP side, it is micro and insignificant, but what worry me it is the HPG lower, by how much?
Almost imperceptible. It was such a small change, that I wondered if it actually changed, or if it was a function of me looking at it at a different angle.

I reassembled everything, and I have had it running into the tank for a couple of hours. So far so good. It is holding its working pressure. We'll see how long the tank lasts.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:33 PM   #167
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Almost imperceptible. It was such a small change, that I wondered if it actually changed, or if it was a function of me looking at it at a different angle.

I reassembled everything, and I have had it running into the tank for a couple of hours. So far so good. It is holding its working pressure. We'll see how long the tank lasts.
sounds good, show a picture of your DIY once it is ready to serve, it is an inspiration for others who want to build their own.
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:38 PM   #168
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I will take a picture, but my unit looks pretty rough compared to the stuff I see on here. Ha!

It worked all day yesterday though. I'm so excited. It's going to be weird not to have a project. I need to start planning what I'm going to do next.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:36 PM   #169
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Awesome. Passed with flying colors
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:05 AM   #170
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Unless I've missed something, I believe there's an import test that's missing from the set of procedures outlined in the first post. Folks should run a stop test to validate that their regulator is actually regulating accurately. Otherwise, when their solenoid closes, pressure could build up on the LP side (and then they'll dump their cylinder via the relief valve).

This procedure can most easily be added to step 3:

B1. Open solenoid valve.
B2. Check LP side is at desired level (e.g., 30 psi).
B3. Close solenoid valve.
B4. Wait 10-15 mins; check LP gauge hasn't increased more than 1-2 psi.

C. (carry on the rest of step 3).
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:08 PM   #171
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Folks should run a stop test to validate that their regulator is actually regulating accurately. Otherwise, when their solenoid closes, pressure could build up on the LP side (and then they'll dump their cylinder via the relief valve).
I think I've already mention this problem in this or some other related threads, it is internal poppet valve leak, so the LP pressure slowly climb even the regulator at off position, and the build up pressure at the LP side will eventually damage something, push through the solenoid or the relieve valve if there is one.
perform a blow test, may or may not fix the problem.

If the problem persists after the blow test, it is broken, and such problem are commonly seen on commercially available regulators.

I will add this to the steps, thanks.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:28 PM   #172
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I am at work and unfortunately don't have time to read the entire thread. New too regulators and the frist page should have answered my question but I am slightly confused as again this is new to me. I bought a used regulator on Ebay and want to test it. I have nothing to connect to it yet. A co-worker of mine is a brewer and has a tank of CO2 that he is willing to test the regulator with but is not really familiar with the ins and outs of regulators either. His "just works". When we connect the regulator to the tank it constantly lets CO2 out the outlet side without it being capped. No matter if we tighten the regulator adjuster or not it keeps flowing. Is this normal? the regulator is an Airgas dual stage. Are we doing something wrong? Any tips would be apprecaited.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:41 PM   #173
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Sounds like your regulator is garbage. (Blown diaphragm)
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:40 PM   #174
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hi. i have this regulator.
http://www.tzong-yang.com.tw/en/prod...hp?item_id=225

i did the soapy water test. no leak visible.

when i first got my 1 liter ista tank. it reads 1000 psi. and the low pressure guage at 50psi. when the solenoid valve opens it goes down to 16-25psi. but after two weeks. the high pressure gauge is still at 1000psi but the low pressure gauge goes down to nearly zero. the bubble output is staggered. not the usual constant bubble count. it will release many bubbl at once then stop. then release again and stop.

what seem to cause this? i tried step one. after the solenoid closes the HP gauge stays at 1000 psi but the low pressure gauge goes up to 50 psi.

my problem is that when the solenoid open the pressure at LP gauge drops until nearly zero but the JP gauge is still 1000psi.


pls help
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:11 AM   #175
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hi. i have this regulator.
http://www.tzong-yang.com.tw/en/prod...hp?item_id=225

i did the soapy water test. no leak visible.

when i first got my 1 liter ista tank. it reads 1000 psi. and the low pressure guage at 50psi. when the solenoid valve opens it goes down to 16-25psi. but after two weeks. the high pressure gauge is still at 1000psi but the low pressure gauge goes down to nearly zero. the bubble output is staggered. not the usual constant bubble count. it will release many bubbl at once then stop. then release again and stop.

what seem to cause this? i tried step one. after the solenoid closes the HP gauge stays at 1000 psi but the low pressure gauge goes up to 50 psi.

my problem is that when the solenoid open the pressure at LP gauge drops until nearly zero but the JP gauge is still 1000psi.


pls help


this leak check is not going to work on your regulator.
anyway, the picture shows how your paintball regulator work. it is similar to a single stage pressure regulator, but without diaphragm, and yes, the spring would keep it at 50 psi output, but without a diaphragm, the friction on the piston will cause problem which is what you are experiencing at the moment.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:26 AM   #176
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picture 2, a second design for the similar regulator, same problem, without a diaphragm, friction on the piston cause trouble.


these two design regulators, the steady output pressure is not critical, they work well on paintball system which running on abrupt on/off cycle, but if you want a slow and steady output, the friction on the piston will play nasty.

add: in most cases, this type of regulators are ok, because the normal friction will affect the output pressure by unnoticeable digit, but if inside gets thirty, the whole mechanism operation inside become lazy, problems will emerge as what alpo430 experiencing at the monment

Last edited by Bettatail; 02-07-2014 at 09:03 PM.. Reason: add info
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:25 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalban View Post
Unless I've missed something, I believe there's an import test that's missing from the set of procedures outlined in the first post. Folks should run a stop test to validate that their regulator is actually regulating accurately. Otherwise, when their solenoid closes, pressure could build up on the LP side (and then they'll dump their cylinder via the relief valve).

This procedure can most easily be added to step 3:

B1. Open solenoid valve.
B2. Check LP side is at desired level (e.g., 30 psi).
B3. Close solenoid valve.
B4. Wait 10-15 mins; check LP gauge hasn't increased more than 1-2 psi.

C. (carry on the rest of step 3).
I noticed that when my solenoid turns off. The next day my LP gauge has gone up about 2psi. Should I be worried about this situation?
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:04 PM   #178
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I noticed that when my solenoid turns off. The next day my LP gauge has gone up about 2psi. Should I be worried about this situation?
what regulator?
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:14 PM   #179
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I have the Praxair Platinum 4323391-75-000. It's a dual stage SS regulator.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:12 AM   #180
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I have the Praxair Platinum 4323391-75-000. It's a dual stage SS regulator.
nice regulator you have there, it is a top CONCOA.

give it a simple leak check.

1. put the system on co2 tank, charge it with co2.
2. set the output pressure to 50 psi, then solenoid off, co2 tank valve close.
3. leave it for 6 hours, if nothing change, means no leak from the CGA320 connection to the solenoid(not cover the parts or the tubing after the solenoid).
4. the parts/tubing connections after the solenoid, use soapy water to check leak.

if no leak, one or two psi rise after solenoid power off, may be the problem of a lazy stainless steel diaphragm, should be ok if you set the output pressure high enough, about 40-50psi.
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