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Old 11-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #31
Hobbes1911
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Originally Posted by Down_Shift View Post
I've never seen ph higher than 7 in Boston. That's crazy
It;s 8.6-9 here in the south end. I agitate for at least 24 hours before I add it to any of my tanks.
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:11 PM   #32
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I don't know how trustworthy "Ehow.com" is but I found this:

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Originally Posted by http://www.ehow.com/list_5919527_effects-water-copper-tubing.html
"When the water carried by copper tubing is at a pH (acid/base) level of seven or above (more base than acid) a protective film of copper oxides and mineral scale made of calcium carbonate forms on the inside of the tubing. This film protects the tubing from corrosion by the water, and keeps additional copper from corroding into the water. If the pH level of the water drops below seven, the film begins to dissolve and the tubing will again be subject to corrosion by the water.

If the protective film is dissolved, or doesn't form, the corrosion rate of copper tubing is .001 to .003 inches per year. With the protective film, the corrosion rate drops to an average of just 0.0003 inches per year."
I find it a plausible explanation from what little I remember from 5.112 8 years ago. I guess ya'll should only be worried if the pH of your tap water is < 7.

Also, if you have inline water conditioning equipment it may also have an effect on your tap. You won't know unless you measure!
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:15 PM   #33
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http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/monthly/...013/102013.pdf

On page 6 they show what the pH of the finish water is which is prior to distribution.
I was very surprised to find this out bout two years ago when I measured a sample from my house and it was 8.7 and straight out of tap at work was 9.2.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:09 PM   #34
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Nice find! Guess that belays all the confusion
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #35
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Though really the easiest thing to do might be to just buy RODI. Most places sell it for $1/gallon. You're not dealing with a large system and you're not changing water that frequently. You'll most likely use it for top off and occasional water changes. Going with a RODI unit versus buying it from somewhere depends on your usage. You can do the math to figure out when you would break even, etc. Buying the RODI water also means you don't need to replace filters, etc, so make sure to factor that in. You can even buy premixed saltwater or natural saltwater.
Yeah figured as much. Was curious what your take would be. iIf it was warmer weather i could hook a 5 stage system from BRS via the outside shower, and not have to make alterations to the piping. The only place within a hours drive that sells RO/DI is in weymouth so i'm hoping they pan out. If not i'll probably get myself a 50g food grade barrel for $20-, and load up once everything 2 months. I drive a jeep, and the mpg isnt the greatest so that's apart of my equation for cost. Pricing seems to be from 50c > $1 per gallon. UA gives free RO/DI if you spend $20-. I'm using sea water i collect from the ocean, though i did try a box of petco sea water after a discussion on boston reefers. I have a lot of evaporation each week i need top off's often.
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Originally Posted by aquaful View Post
I don't know how trustworthy &quot;Ehow.com&quot; is but I found this:



I find it a plausible explanation from what little I remember from 5.112 8 years ago. I guess ya'll should only be worried if the pH of your tap water is < 7.

Also, if you have inline water conditioning equipment it may also have an effect on your tap. You won't know unless you measure!
http://www.epa.gov/nrmrl/wswrd/cr/co...opper_ai2.html Yeah seems to make sense. Iron ,and steel are still common as well in the old pipe system, and they seem to have a high errors ion rate as well.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:46 PM   #36
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you use 25 gallons of Ro a month? O.o wow.. lol i use about 6 gallons a month between all my tanks.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:28 PM   #37
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Well, tap water from Quincy has a kh of 3 and ph at ~7.8, gh is 0.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:23 PM   #38
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you use 25 gallons of Ro a month? O.o wow.. lol i use about 6 gallons a month between all my tanks.
I have a saltwater tank though. A weekly 25% water change on a 20g is 5 gallons x5 weeks a month is 25 gallons, but with top off's as i do get a lot of evaporation even with the ambient air temp being at 68F, the tank water itself is being kept at 79.5F, the air is pretty dry along the coast too which is a contributing factor. So i'm thinking thus far 25 gallons minimum, 30/35 gallons a month more realistic with top off's as i seem to be avg'n 1.5> 2.5 gallons a week evaporation, and when i loose water anytime i have my hands in, and out of the tank which is a lot right now cause i'm not sold on how i have my live rock setup. I know between sand levels, and lb's of rock it isn't 20g's at the moment, but i'm going to be moving everything into a 30g cube very soon, and the equations will be more correct.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:28 AM   #39
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There are garden hose thread adapters to 1/4 JG/polyeth tubing.

Given your usage I would just buy a RODI unit. I hate hauling liquids and clearly you do too! If you get a 25G barrel to transport to and fro, just remember that it's going to be approximately 200lbs if you round water to weigh ~8 lbs per gallon. You're most likely not going to be lifting it. Even if you can, those handles, even on a brute, might rip off! lol.


http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-5-...tem-75gpd.html
^-- Look at the specs
•Purtrex 5 Micron Sediment Filter
•MATRIKX CTO 5 Micron Carbon Block
•MATRIKX CTO 0.6 Micron Carbon Block
•75 GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane
•Single DI Refillable Cartridge

Look at Spectrapure's more basic model
http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/RO-D...D-RO-DI-System

TFC membrane
Ultra-high efficiency 0.5 micron MicroTec™ Sediment Pre-Filter
0.5 micron Carbon Block Pre-Filter

The BRS unit's filters are an order of magnitude off. I can't say much about the DI beds because they're proprietary or something like that. I actually have no idea why BRS lists two specs for the carbon filters.

Any case, the point I'm trying to make is to just be aware of what you're paying for. I like higher-grade pre-sediment fliters which are cheaper to replace than resins. Whatever it doesn't catch gets passed along to the more expensive filters, so that's why I think it makes sense to get the best prefilter possible.
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:16 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Hobbes1911 View Post
It;s 8.6-9 here in the south end. I agitate for at least 24 hours before I add it to any of my tanks.
maybe my building then? It was renovated a few years ago and I know they have something next to the hot water tanks. Maybe it's a giant filter or something. I'm only a few blocks from you!

there's the coralife RO/DI setup. I've had one before that I Y'd out of my tap in my bathroom sink, and just filled a 5g poland spring bottle in the bath tub. Small boston apartment so I hated having the bottle around. Got rid of it all.
You can easily have it adapter from the faucet too (if you faucet has an aerator, same thing)


They are always on sale on Amazon. Price hovers around 70-80 bucks.

Not good for large amounts of water, but for small tanks it's perfect.

Last edited by Down_Shift; 11-20-2013 at 04:48 AM.. Reason: add
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #41
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The spetrapure 90 gpd refurbished RODI unit is only $130. I have been using this unit for 6 months and I've been very happy with it.
It is small enough that I mounted it under my kitchen sink inside the cabinet. I teed off the sink sprayer connection and added a small valve inline. No major plumbing alterations required.
I've made about 550 gallons of DI so far and haven't changed a filter yet. Still 0 tds.
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:27 PM   #42
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Default Help with RODI boosting

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Originally Posted by aquaful View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that TDS is an aggregate measurement of the content of the water that you're testing. Without testing for individual compounds you won't really know what composes that TDS, unless you read the water report from your DPW.
Hi Aquaful,

I was hoping you could part some advice. I work at pharma company and use there USP ro/di water for my reef tank. I usually mix 25% tap to rodi for my freshwater as my tap here is ~300 TDS. But if I wanted to use straight rodi and GH boost what specs should I shoot for a shrimp tank? 4-5GH? 1-2KH? I believe the GH boost I can make should be 3 parts K2SO4, 3 parts CaSO4 and 1 part MgSO4? Any good advice or links to how much to add per gal etc?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:44 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by theurbantomato View Post
Hi Aquaful,

I was hoping you could part some advice. I work at pharma company and use there USP ro/di water for my reef tank. I usually mix 25% tap to rodi for my freshwater as my tap here is ~300 TDS. But if I wanted to use straight rodi and GH boost what specs should I shoot for a shrimp tank? 4-5GH? 1-2KH? I believe the GH boost I can make should be 3 parts K2SO4, 3 parts CaSO4 and 1 part MgSO4? Any good advice or links to how much to add per gal etc?

Thanks,
Matt
What i would do is add rodi to your tank and measure it as it becomes stable in parameters, then add whatever you find necessary. Your substrate and anything else in your tank will most likely affect water chemistry. I can't suggest actual parameters because most species of ornamental shrimp differ in their ideal parameters. Different breeders suggest different parameters. In my opinion long term stability is the most important thing and parameters like pH, temp have several degrees of freedom to work with. I personally choose the best substrate possible and avoid chemical additives if possible.

For my own tanks I use up aqua shrimp sand, Seiryu stone, flourish tabs and pressurized co2 for baby dwarf tears. I only use rodi and top off with rodi with no water changes

One more thing, I am surprised by how many people refer to the TDS of their tap water. This number doesn't tell you what composes the water so unless it's 0 I find it rather useless.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:45 PM   #44
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Happy thanksgiving!
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:12 PM   #45
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Boston water comes from the quabbin resevoir. This is excellent water! Very soft with a ph of 6.8. They raise the ph way up during treatment. It comes back down easy enough because of thevery low buffer. Most Mass tap water from the quabbin and surrounding resevoirs will have very low kh and gh. In fact, it is probably a bit too low for some shrimps.

The main problem in municipal water supplies in Mass comes from salt runoff in the winter, as well as old plumbing/water lines that may have the potential to leech metals into the water in individual households.

I am in western mass, but am thinking of getting some salty shrimp to add to my water if the tds remains low.
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