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Old 12-17-2013, 03:48 AM   #16
ओं मणिपद्मे हूं
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A Finnex Ray II on the rim of a shallow tank with less than 6 inches from the substrate. No need to look further for a cause.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:36 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by acitydweller View Post
A Finnex Ray II on the rim of a shallow tank with less than 6 inches from the substrate. No need to look further for a cause.

right on the money.

raise the light.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:38 AM   #18
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woah, i didn't get any notifications for all these responses. thanks everyone!

ok here i go. definitely going to raise the lights. i knew it was high light to begin with but still wanted to see if it was manageable with co2 and ferts. i'm planning on doing this over the weekend so please be on the lookout for that.

i haven't done any tests yet as it's still been cycling, but will be taking one this week.
as for ph reading, can anyone suggest a decent ph meter that they've used before? one that's in the $100 price range..

my ferts specifics, i'll also get back. but basically it's not too far from and liquid ferts out there from what i've read. truthfully, i'm not well versed in what the differences are but that's what ive concluded by reading the labels on the back.

i read on a different thread by tom barr suggesting that co2 is often an easily overlooked factor since we do not accurately measure the level of co2 level based on the ph drops, which can be used in conjunction with the kh. (if i misquote, my bad!). so if my kh is X and my ph is Y before i turned my co2, than i should know how much co2 is being pumped into my tank by measuring with a PH meter after co2 has been turned on some time assuming it drops and i can measure to the tenth place.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:30 PM   #19
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A pH probe is not neccisary unless you have money to blow. If you want a semi accurate reading a drop checker with 4dkh fluid will work. You can buy the 4dkh online or make it with baking soda and distilled water. PH fluctuations are not a huge deal for fish but if you plan on keeping crystal red shrimp or shrimp that require low pH it might make a difference although it might be safer to not have co2 at all on a setup like that.

With no livestock you can't overdo co2. Once you add livestock just start with low levels of co2 and work your way up while monitoring the fish/shrimp. Shrimp will be slower and less active in high co2 and fish will be gasping at the surface if its too high. With a 3g I assume it will be a shrimp tank so look for those signs.
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:56 AM   #20
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hello it's been a while

i took all the blyxa out and put it into my other project. it wasn't getting enough flow and had too much algae but now is recovering well.

most of my previous algae issues are gone. i just raise the lights (duh), kept scrubbing the top of my substrate and plants with a toothbrush daily, cleaned filter weekly during WC and for the most part it's gone.
BUT, my m.p. mats don't look so lush and green anymore. the 2 small ones are ok, but that long one isn't doing too well. any ideas? before anyone says it's because of those moss stick on's, i just put them on tonight to try something out for my new fish coming in shortly.

so my h.c. has been actually been doing better than my other attempts. i see new growth, although slow and it's been slowly creeping.
the thing that's been annoying me are the micro swords. my god, they don't fill and all they do is send runners all around! am i doing something wrong with them?


i'm still not happy with where it's at right now. need to figure out the rest..

p.s. my other project is the 20cm aquatop. nothing fancy just moss and stuff
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:03 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by theericafish View Post
Usually in a new setup you will get a lot of diatoms and the diatoms string together to look like hair algae. If its brown its diatoms if you pull it out and hold it under the light it and its a neon green color could be hair algae or spirogyra(which is difficult to remove).

With 7inch height on the tank the ray2 is probably about around 5 inches off the substrate, thats a lot of par. (not sure if tank is cycled) Try adding some nerite snails. For a small tank 1 or 2 horned nerite snails will take care of diatoms on the glass(the larger ones like olive and zebra nerites have not done well for me in my setups but the smaller ones seem to do fine). 2 or 3 amano shrimp will help a lot too.

I would also suggest adding some floating plants, duckweed, or salvinia minima if you can find some in your area. That will help reduce the par of the ray2 and absorb excess nutrients. Ideally the light should be at least 10inches off the substrate in my opinion, even with a shortened lighting period you are asking for trouble.

You can also try dimming the light with window screen(the kind so bugs cant get into your house through the windows).
+100 to this..
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:06 AM   #22
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^yea already raised the light. No more algae issue like before.
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