DIY LED Pendant Light - Page 6
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #76
93MSB
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did you switch to a pvc tube?
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:25 PM   #77
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did you switch to a pvc tube?
No, it is the same aluminum tube, just painted flat white on the outside.

I just finished adding a 1/8" thick aluminum plate on the LED mounting surface of the heatsink, to enlarge the surface to accomodate the big 30 watt LED and 2 small 1 watt red LEDs. I flattened and polished the mating surfaces, drilled and threaded a hole in the middle of the heatsink, used thermal compound between the two pieces.


Now I need to drill and tap the LED mounting holes in the plate.

I'm also rethinking the method for hanging the light. Since I will have a 6 conductor cable going from the two LED drivers and the fan DC power supply, I might as well use that cable to hang the light. I'm not sure yet how to make that look good.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #78
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This is how it looks externally. The electric cable, with 6 conductors, 2 each for the fan, the 1 watt red LEDs, and the 30 watt white LED, will be separated into two bundles of 3 conductors each. Each of those will be held together with shrink tube insulation, and those will go down through the extra mounting holes in the fan, then through the extra mounting slots in the heatsink, and into the can. That cable will also be the hanger wire for the light.

My 12 VDC power supply (wall wart), for the fans, will arrive next week sometime - $3.40 on no ebay links allowed Then I can complete the assembly and test it. (Fingers crossed).
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:26 PM   #79
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LED's on heatsink. The big one is held by 4 #4-40 screws, with heat conducting compound, and the small ones will be cemented on. Tomorrow I will go shopping for the 6 conductor cable, and maybe do the hook-up.
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #80
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Very nice!!! Can't wait to see the numbers on this one.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:37 PM   #81
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The wiring at the light is complete. The hanging "bridle" isn't perfect, but from the normal distance it looks pretty good. Next will be mounting the drivers, etc. on a board, to be installed under the tank, with some kind of water protection, and connecting the cable to the power.

Soldering was very difficult because of the heatsink cooling the LEDs so effectively. This was much harder than the other LED light soldering I did.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:26 AM   #82
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looking good really like to see the final numbers and what it looks like. i just finished soldering and testing all my leds this afternoon. i need to drill and rivet my reflectors and then i will post my pendants on my tank build thread. very nice looking product hope it works well.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:48 AM   #83
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looking good really like to see the final numbers and what it looks like. i just finished soldering and testing all my leds this afternoon. i need to drill and rivet my reflectors and then i will post my pendants on my tank build thread. very nice looking product hope it works well.
I can't turn it on until I have the 12VDC power supply for the fan. I'm getting pretty anxious too.
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:55 PM   #84
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I know its too late, but you could of gone for a real factory look with these.



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Old 12-15-2013, 09:35 PM   #85
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I know its too late, but you could of gone for a real factory look with these.



Darn! I missed the boat.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:24 AM   #86
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Looks good bud!
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:55 AM   #87
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I finally received my 12VDC power supply. It is a 12 Volt, 2 Amp "Switching power supply". Please don't tell me that means it is a constant current supply?
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Old 12-25-2013, 05:52 AM   #88
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Hoppy, it is a constant voltage supply. I use them for my lights. I run 4 12V 0.75a LED lights off of one 12V 5a switching supply. The switching bit, from memory just means it can switch betwen different AC supply voltages. Merry Xmas.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:26 AM   #89
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Quote:
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I finally received my 12VDC power supply. It is a 12 Volt, 2 Amp "Switching power supply". Please don't tell me that means it is a constant current supply?
Switching does not mean constant current
if it were constant current the specs would be something like 10 - 15 Volts at 2A constant
Switching power supplies are not constant current normally and are more like the power supplies you find in a PC
You will probably need a constant current driver to get the best use out of your LED

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:27 AM   #90
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Well, not quite. The switching PS uses high frequency switching transistors that are not in a state or condition that passes maximum current constantly but only when called for. These are much more efficient than constant current PS's and also cost a lot less to make. No need for a huge chunk of copper. They also need to be designed to minimize RF noise created by their HF switching. If not they can wreak havoc on your other electronics. They're also sensitive to the types of loads they see. But they're definitely not variable current unless designed that way.
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