How to set up new Eheim. What adapters, tubes, etc.
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:16 PM   #1
asmodion
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I'm seriously considering a move to canister filters. Cost is not really a factor, and I want to get the best I can.

It appears that the best choice for me would be a 2028, as I have a 75g tank, and I'm very happy with my current heater so I don't need a 2128.

What exactly does the setup look like for one of these? I assume there is a single inflow, and a single outflow. Do you typically use an overflow box like with a wet/dry trickle filter? On the outflow, is there a lot of pressure which needs to be directed or diffused? What do you guys use for tubing? Hard PVC, flex-tube, etc?

Another important question. I have a Turbotwist UV sterilizer, currently hooked up through a bunch of flexible and hard PVC piping. I have it set up with a small powerhead which is immersed, and pushes the water through from one end of the tank, through the UV unit, and is deposited on the other end of the tank (top of the water column). I would LOVE to put this thing in-line with the Eheim, but flow-rate must be low for it to function.

Has anyone else used a UV unit in-line with their Eheim? Is there a reasonable way to keep the flow-rate through the sterilizer low, and still feed the Eheim properly (through the same plumbing). Maybe branch the output so only half goes through the sterilizer thereby taking 1/2 of the flow rate... ie:
............................................/===(UV)====\
(Tank)==>==(eheim)==>==|.................... ....|==> to tank
............................................\===== =====/

"=" pipe
"/" or "\" split
"." spacer so formatting of whitespace doesn't screw me up

Thoughts? Pics would be great if I could see the setup I could imagine how I would need to do it.
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75g Tanganyikan planted - eco-complete, crushed lace rock substrate - 260w PC lighting.
30g SE asian planted - various mixed substrate - low-lighting
20g Convict breeder tank - floating plants only
10g African fry tank 1- flourite+sand substrate, 20w lighting
10g African fry tank 2- bare-bottom with java moss
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:23 PM   #2
mario
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Your setup will work, if you insert a ball valve in front of the UV sterilizer. Otherwise you have no way of regulating how much water will go through either branch of you plumbing setup.
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:09 PM   #3
asmodion
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Well what I really wanted to know, was how folks usually set these up.
  • Do you have pre-drilled tank floors?
    Do you diffuse output?
    Do you use sprayers as output?
    Do you output above the surface or below? (reduce agitation)
    Where to you pull water from? (high/low in water column)
    Where do you output in relation to your heater?
    What diameter hose is common, recommended?
    What types of connectors do you use on the actual unit?
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75g Tanganyikan planted - eco-complete, crushed lace rock substrate - 260w PC lighting.
30g SE asian planted - various mixed substrate - low-lighting
20g Convict breeder tank - floating plants only
10g African fry tank 1- flourite+sand substrate, 20w lighting
10g African fry tank 2- bare-bottom with java moss
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:37 PM   #4
mario
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Oh, the Eheim filter comes with everything you need to set it up. If you want to split the outflow you need one y-splitter, a ball valve, barbed adapters and some hose clamps.

Usually Eheims are set up with hoses going into the tank over the back. The inlet has a little strainer (or you can buy and additional pre-filter) and the output is a spray-bar.
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:58 PM   #5
putty
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I am thinking of doing a similar thing, but also including a CO2 reactor inline with the UV. I think I will have to put ball valves on both lines after the splitter. This is because water will want to take the path of least resistance, so that if the UV ster. and CO2 reactor have more flow restrictions than the bypass, you will have no way of controling the flow to this side. If there is a ball valve on the bypass, you can turn it down, forcing more water throught the sterilizer/reactor.
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