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Old 09-08-2013, 03:02 PM   #61
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:37 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Jeff5614 View Post
You should have started dealing with it when it first appeared. It's not going to disappear on its own once established.
I've been "dealing with it" since it first appeared in my tank, with no luck, hence my making this thread.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:27 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by brainwavepc.com View Post
I couldn't do this, it was on everything. all my driftwood, equipment, rocks and even the glass
Hey bro I feel u.

My tank is now covered with this algae. I am also "dealing" with it since I first saw it on my powerhead. It becomes my monthly routine to trim leaves that have bba on them and taking out rocks to brush them out.

The bba is everywhere in my tank.

ps. i have no-CO2 setup, monthly liquid fert regime and low light.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:04 AM   #64
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(head down embarrassed look here) Let me jump on the BBA bandwagon with my experience. I accepted a gift of some plants from a guy tearing his tank down and boy have I regretted it ever since. I run pressurized CO2 through a closed loop cerges reactor to spraybar at about 3 bps (40b). Dosed EI or a revised version for over a year. Lots of stems and explosive growth using three 26w CFLs in domes over an open top. I have been fighting BBA ever since that fateful day. Plenty of circulation (FX5 spraybar), no dead spots. Here's the kicker: The BBA likes to thrive on the holes of the CO2 spraybar and on the plants closest to it. On the CO2 spraybar holes!! I also find it predominantly on anything I've used Fusion spray paint on. This has baffled me. Lights and CO2 on timers. Drop checker's green/yellow on opposite side of tank from spraybar. It takes a two months before the parts come out and get bleached because the algae becomes unslightly. I dose .35 g of KH2PO4 two, three times a week and do a 75% WC once a week. 1 gram of NO3 and 2 grams of K2SO4 same frequency.

I'm willing to try anything to finally get this under control. I believe Tom Barr. I also believe my eyes. Something is allowing this algae to thrive though, and it ain't lack of CO2....
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:53 PM   #65
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Op should have posted Before and after picture...To see is to believe...Myth or Mystery??
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #66
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Well, you know co2 is NOT an algaecide in itself. The idea is that if you have good growing plants it will rid the tank of organics that would have otherwise aided BBA and other algae. The ability for the plants to do this is different in every setup.

Your tank probably still isn't 'clean enough' for the given setup you have. There is no other reason to have such BBA problems. In the right setup you could drop a BBA invested piece of driftwood in the tank and it does nothing but slowly die.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #67
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Here's my experience with BBA for anyone interested (Like me when I browsed countless threads about BBA )

Some info: 70gal, EI dosing, 50% weekly WC, pressurized CO2 (7am-10:30pm), photoperiod (9am-5pm and 7pm-10:30pm), Fluval 306, dual 54w T5 HO

Last month or so, I started getting BBA in my tank slowly, but surely. Whenever I trimmed my plants, I noticed that BBA would appear the next week during water change/maintenance. So eventually, I figured I could use that as a good indicator (compared to my drop checkers which were always lime/yellow). What I did the following weeks was slightly increase the CO2, but more importantly (I think?), fixed the CO2 fluctuation. If you noticed, I have a "siesta" period during which I used to stop the CO2 injection. Now, I just let it run from 7am to 10:30pm without interruption.

My glass top cover also got pretty dirty, so maybe that helped reduce light intensity a little bit (I wouldn’t dare to clean it knowing what could happen if I do!).. and my plant mass also increased alot compared to when I first flooded my tank.

..So after that, each week during WC/maintenance I would check if there's BBA where I trimmed my plants last time. If there was, I would trim the plant again where it's affected, slightly increase CO2, then wait until next week. Eventually, BBA stopped appearing whenever I trimmed my plants. (I truly believe that CO2 fluctuation was my real problem)

I do still have some remaining BBA on my driftwood, rocks and damaged plants, but they're so small that I don't mind. Besides, they don't seem to spread anymore. (I'd spot treat with excel on the more badly affected areas and the BBA would die during the next few days)

As some people said, watch your plants, as they're the best indicator if something’s wrong (or something like that). Works for me!
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:46 AM   #68
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Yawn....I thought I am reading something new. The best way to kill BBA is to prevent it by maintaining consistent CO2 level at 30ppm+. It took me 2 years to accomplish this. Unhealthy plants would tend to attract BBA more. And never make ferts as the limiting factors.

I use Phoslock, even better than the Seachem version, for pretreating my water before WC. Then, I dose about 15ml of phosphate, about 5ppm to 10ppm per dosing on my 40g tank. For the OP, you may want to make sure you aren't using additives for your tank water that may contain phosphate (ie, seachem neutral ph regulator...)
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:51 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levian View Post
Here's my experience with BBA for anyone interested (Like me when I browsed countless threads about BBA )

Some info: 70gal, EI dosing, 50% weekly WC, pressurized CO2 (7am-10:30pm), photoperiod (9am-5pm and 7pm-10:30pm), Fluval 306, dual 54w T5 HO

Last month or so, I started getting BBA in my tank slowly, but surely. Whenever I trimmed my plants, I noticed that BBA would appear the next week during water change/maintenance. So eventually, I figured I could use that as a good indicator (compared to my drop checkers which were always lime/yellow). What I did the following weeks was slightly increase the CO2, but more importantly (I think?), fixed the CO2 fluctuation. If you noticed, I have a "siesta" period during which I used to stop the CO2 injection. Now, I just let it run from 7am to 10:30pm without interruption.

My glass top cover also got pretty dirty, so maybe that helped reduce light intensity a little bit (I wouldn’t dare to clean it knowing what could happen if I do!).. and my plant mass also increased alot compared to when I first flooded my tank.

..So after that, each week during WC/maintenance I would check if there's BBA where I trimmed my plants last time. If there was, I would trim the plant again where it's affected, slightly increase CO2, then wait until next week. Eventually, BBA stopped appearing whenever I trimmed my plants. (I truly believe that CO2 fluctuation was my real problem)

I do still have some remaining BBA on my driftwood, rocks and damaged plants, but they're so small that I don't mind. Besides, they don't seem to spread anymore. (I'd spot treat with excel on the more badly affected areas and the BBA would die during the next few days)

As some people said, watch your plants, as they're the best indicator if something’s wrong (or something like that). Works for me!

Yeah, that's about right. For the CO2 level, try the ph/kh chart. I don't get BBA anymore after knowing how to use the chart. I also prolong my CO2 for an additional 3 hours. From 5:30am to 3:30pm. 10 hours total but with only 7 hours of light. I set the CO2 to turn on 3 hours before the light. This is to ensure that my CO2 level is high and stable enough before the light comes on. In the past, I set it to one hour. It was impossible for my CO2 to reach to 30ppm in one hour.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:04 PM   #70
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I posted in a new thread about my recent experience. Basically I had BBA in my tank in the background. Always there and if I look at it wrong, it will just cover my plants. Adjusted CO2 till my fishes were at the top, changed flow, reduced flow, lowered light, increased light, lowered ferts, increased ferts, even tried excel for 2 weeks killing quite a few of my malayan shrimps. But BBA did not really stop growing. At most, it stop growing but if I miss just one water change or trimming, it would grow in strength.

5 days ago, a couple of my fish contracted ich. I decided to start using Seachem paraguard. Today is day 5 and I suddenly noticed that my BBA are all dieing! All! red patches are seen on my buce and anubias and more on the driftwood where my thai moss are located. These 3 locations are the most troublesome but they are all pink or red and seems to be falling off. Could it be Paraguard kills more then ich? Anyone else experience something similar?
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:06 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainwavepc.com View Post
I do not know the levels beforehand. but I can say the bba was growing on glass and everything else and the only thing I changed in the past month was adding the phos guard

it's a dirted tank, mts from plain cheap topsoil. before trying this I manually removed bba almost daily and it grew back fast. after adding the phos guard I removed some of it but it was still completely covering all my wood and rocks. it's falling off by itself now and my plans are still growing super fast.

so far I've changed the phos guard once after a week and and a half. the bba is disappearing at a pretty quick rate.




I just went and looked and my decimated micro sword that amost all died off because of the bba has put out three new sprouts, woohoo!
I just want to thank you for posting what has helped you. I want to make sure I understand correctly...You have been running the phos guard for about 2 weeks now? I'd really love to keep getting at least weekly updates on the condition of your plants if you don't mind. I have been unhappy with excel spot treatment results & am looking for alternatives.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:35 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainwavepc.com View Post
I've been "dealing with it" since it first appeared in my tank, with no luck, hence my making this thread.
In the meantime, my tank:







Now............there is some tiny amount of BBA in this tank, but you really have to look for it and it is only on a few pieces of the wood in the current, not really anywhere else. I suppose if I wanted, I could really go after it more, but there's little point, it's not a nuisance.

Let's look at another tank:



This is pretty much opposite of the above tank, it's a Buce tank, full of slow growing Anubias like plants. About 25% of the light of the tank above. Same but even slower minor BBA on wood only.

I can kill it with H2O2 every 2-3 months, never an issue. I dose less to this tank, the demand from the plants is low, so there's no need to lard it on.

And then there's this tank:



Maybe 6 months ago:




Maybe 2-3 years ago?

It has BBA here and there over the years, but like the above tanks, tiny bit perhaps here and there on the wood, not the plants. But the last year or so, I've been unable to see any nor cleaned the wood.

Tanks all end up with about the same ppm's residuals over time.
All have a lot of shrimp, some snails, plecos, wet/dry filters, good general care.

Client tanks:






These are F2's and the angels are F3's.


My non CO2 tanks have never gotten BBA.



All these tanks have PO4, a lot.
BBA on the hardscape is no different to me than any algae on the hardscape. When it gets on the plants or quickly covers things, there's a CO2 issue.
CO2 is not a simple thing, this is what gets intermediate and new folks.
High light also plays a role with algae woes. It all go back to simple stuff: good plant growth/care and good general maintenance.

No magic, no tricks. I go to the ADA store here in SF(AFA), and I see BBA on most of their tanks also. Sometimes on plants, sometimes just here and there on rocks or wood. They fix it or it sometimes nags them.
With clients, I cannot allow any algae on the glass or plants.
But some folks, myself included, need to learn through experience.
I did not believe my own advice today.....when I was growing plants 20-30 years ago

There are just some folks that will suffer and have to learn the hard way, other folks seem to get lucky, but is the typical bell curve distribution with most being pretty successful in the middle, and then the tails being really really good, or poor to really bad.

I suffered 3 years in the late 1980's-1990's with BBA, Amano said he suffered about 10 years. So that's some perspective on the pain and time frame in the past.

Client tanks provided good test since they often would run out of CO2 and then call me.....to fix the issue. Name the algae, they had it. BBA and on plants and the hardscape occurred after several days of no CO2. Not once, but every time for 5 different clients and myself. I've had many clients that are one or two time services to fix their issues, mostly BBA. Maybe 20 or so? CO2 every stinking time.

You might read the other thread I posted on with CO2, has a couple of graphs and the idea about flux and Fick's 1st law of diffusion.


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=447481

Should help.
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Last edited by plantbrain; 10-04-2013 at 05:37 AM.. Reason: Left out the Buce tank
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:43 AM   #73
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i have just started to develop this on my non co2 tank, happened as soon as i started dosing excel.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:30 PM   #74
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If I can make some observations...

The first mistake people make is to believe there is some silver bullet to eliminate algae from your tank. If there was, there wouldn't be an algae forum here or anywhere else on planted tank forums. That said many experienced people are able to set up planted tank systems that minimize and control algae growth. They tend to use some well known system. Pick one of those and stick with it.

There is a difference between an anecdote and data (or scientific evidence). An anecdote is a random observation that may or may not hold any validity. A large number of similar random observations probably points to some underlying principle BUT then one has to be able to differentiate between correlation and causation. The best illustration of this I've heard is that ice cream consumption causes drowning. We know this isn't true but if graphed they correlate perfectly. But obviously if ice cream consumption is limited or eliminated it will have no affect on drowning deaths. Point here is read every cause (or cure) critically.

Use logic. If 10 tanks have high PO4 and BBA, 10 tanks have high PO4 and have no algae, 10 tanks with low PO4 are algae free, and 10 tanks with low nutrient levels have algae, what can we deduce from this? I do have a tendency to believe the tank observations of people and I know all these tanks exist. A lot of people, it would seem, want to believe the other tanks don't exist. Look for the common factors in tanks.

Be prepared for the unknown. A lot of random events are happening specifically in new tanks. Ignore them. You have wisely chosen a proven existing system to manage your tank. Stick with it. Experienced people have a tendency to believe they understand these things. They know there is a break in period where random types of algae find your tank. They don't get overly excited and start changing things up.

Just so we are clear, if you want to believe phosguard prevents algae, or excel causes it, I have no problem with that. Be happy. I only posted this in the hope that it would help someone.

Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:38 AM   #75
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lets see its been almost two months now and my tank is 95% bba free.



Tom, you have your opinions and we have ours, please stop polluting this thread with your useless smug inputs.

I have seven other tanks with 0 bba that I don't need phos guard, that use the same water, mts, plants from the affected tank, equipment, and everything else and they have 0 bba. this one did and phos guard was the solution so get over it already and go troll a different thread.


to everyone else, try it out if you have the same problems I had, it works great! my fish and plants are doing better than ever! my dhg is finally growing again too. so happy!
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