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Old 09-11-2013, 04:33 AM   #31
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Bump for awesome build. Just finished mine and it works great. Total project cost: about $70. I plan on expanding the Arduino to power some relays for the lights and CO2 as well.
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Old 09-12-2013, 04:03 AM   #32
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Very nice. I love automation!

I was also thinking if making a temptation controlled shutoff as a thermometer protector
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:15 AM   #33
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I built a version of this dosing setup about 2 months ago, and I use it for 2 dosing pumps plus a set of RGB LED lights that I use to add color to my tank. Thanks a ton for posting all of this I never would have attempted it without all of the information!

I finally got around to actually documenting it all, and I posted an update in my journal with a bunch of pictures of the build with information. I wanted to leave a link here in case anybody digs this thread up and is looking for more info: Fallen Tree Branch 60cm Page 12
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:56 PM   #34
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How are the dosing pumps holding up? I'm going to build this as well. I noticed they are coming from China so I ordered an extra one in case one fails.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:20 PM   #35
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ALso will this same code work with the Arduino Mega. I would like to by it initially so I can use it to control the lights and pumps later on!
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:31 PM   #36
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How are the dosing pumps holding up? I'm going to build this as well. I noticed they are coming from China so I ordered an extra one in case one fails.
Mine seem to be fine. The actual assembly is quite simple, and because they are rollers, there shouldn't be any wearing issues with the exception of the tubing inside the pump (which can be replaced). My only complaint is that they do not seal 100% against backpressure. As my ferts have to be pumped up like 3-4 feet, this sometimes results in the lines slowly emptying over a few hours, even with check valves installed (not enough backpressure to fully lock the check valves I assume)
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:36 AM   #37
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Mine seem to be fine. The actual assembly is quite simple, and because they are rollers, there shouldn't be any wearing issues with the exception of the tubing inside the pump (which can be replaced). My only complaint is that they do not seal 100% against backpressure. As my ferts have to be pumped up like 3-4 feet, this sometimes results in the lines slowly emptying over a few hours, even with check valves installed (not enough backpressure to fully lock the check valves I assume)
You can solve this problem by purchasing a single silicon tube for each pump. You can purchase the small silicon tubing from amazon. I also use the small cable ties to secure each connection point to try to make it as air tight as possible.

Also make sure the container where the fert is coming from has a small hole or the container will cause some back pressure at one point and will pull the liquid down.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:56 AM   #38
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You can solve this problem by purchasing a single silicon tube for each pump. You can purchase the small silicon tubing from amazon. I also use the small cable ties to secure each connection point to try to make it as air tight as possible.

Also make sure the container where the fert is coming from has a small hole or the container will cause some back pressure at one point and will pull the liquid down.
Not sure what you mean by the first part. Are you saying replace the inner tubing (that gets rolled) with a thicker walled version? I was going to do that but could not find an appropriate size that did not bind the roller assembly

And yep, I drilled a tiny hole in the fert container for air. Though, now that I think about it, maybe if I covered the hole, the suction would be enough to fully engage the check valves. Hmmmm
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:27 AM   #39
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Quote:
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Not sure what you mean by the first part. Are you saying replace the inner tubing (that gets rolled) with a thicker walled version? I was going to do that but could not find an appropriate size that did not bind the roller assembly

And yep, I drilled a tiny hole in the fert container for air. Though, now that I think about it, maybe if I covered the hole, the suction would be enough to fully engage the check valves. Hmmmm
Yes you can replace the inner tubing with a tubing that will reach both the ferts container and the actual aquarium. I purchased silicon tubing from Amazon.com (3/32 ID and 5/32 OD) but I have not installed it yet. It came as a 10 ft tube which should be long enough to reach the ferts container inside my stand.

I initially was struggling to find a silicon tubing replacement for mine so I ended up using latex tubing I found at walmart by the fishing section. I found a small diameter one and it has been my tubing for more than 4 months now.

You can try other brands of check valves but I'm using 2 cheap ones from petco and they've kept the lines primed.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:53 AM   #40
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Oh, you misunderstood my issue, I should have been more clear. The ferts are not leaking out of the line itself (I'm using barbed connectors that seal very well), they are going back into the fert container because they are located in my cabinet, almost 4 ft below the tank lip (right now the ends of the lines are just held in place above the waterline so tank water does not get sucked back. The pressure from the height slowly pushes the ferts back down because the check valves and pump assembly do not fully prevent backflow

Quote:
Originally Posted by PortalMasteryRy View Post
Yes you can replace the inner tubing with a tubing that will reach both the ferts container and the actual aquarium. I purchased silicon tubing from Amazon.com (3/32 ID and 5/32 OD) but I have not installed it yet. It came as a 10 ft tube which should be long enough to reach the ferts container inside my stand.

I initially was struggling to find a silicon tubing replacement for mine so I ended up using latex tubing I found at walmart by the fishing section. I found a small diameter one and it has been my tubing for more than 4 months now.

You can try other brands of check valves but I'm using 2 cheap ones from petco and they've kept the lines primed.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:27 PM   #41
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Where is your check valve, at the top or the bottom toward the bottles?
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:47 PM   #42
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Where is your check valve, at the top or the bottom toward the bottles?
I using two, one at the tip of the line that is above the tank, and one right before the bottle. The backflow is really slow, it takes about half a day to travel back. The funny thing is, it only happens part of the time, which leads me to believe the pump mechanism has certain positions at which it doesn't seal 100%. I am thinking of trying different check valves. Currently using US Plastic ones that seem to work fine for my CO2 rig
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:17 PM   #43
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try a clippard check valve.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:49 PM   #44
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This is interesting project.
how big is your canister for the liquid fertz ?
do you have issue with the level of liquid fertz in canister ? e.g with mid to low level you need to pump longer ?
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:06 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronados View Post
I using two, one at the tip of the line that is above the tank, and one right before the bottle. The backflow is really slow, it takes about half a day to travel back. The funny thing is, it only happens part of the time, which leads me to believe the pump mechanism has certain positions at which it doesn't seal 100%. I am thinking of trying different check valves. Currently using US Plastic ones that seem to work fine for my CO2 rig
i have not tried it myself, but could you make a little trap loop such as sink pipe trap to prevent/reduce backflow ?
similar to like this ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:An...mbing_trap.jpg

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