Bought a wood stand, needs a tune-up! *help*
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:23 PM   #1
TankYouVeryMuch
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Bought a wood stand, needs a tune-up! *help*


Now, i have absolutely no clue what im doing here, but id like to learn. I also have someone with knowledge and tools so your words wont go unheard...

Id like to do a few things to this cabinet with TPT's help, and if it goes well id even put together a sticky for the site. We will get to that...

Heres the cabinet

20long tank






Heres a picture of the "support" looks like 1x2




Ok so heres what id like to do.

-make 2 doors
-add a shelf inside
-add support?
-re-stain

And thats about all i have to start with. Im guessing the doors should be first, then add supports if you guys think its needed, then shelf, followed by sanding and staining. Im not opposed to ripping the top off and adding a solid piece of something across, but i also dont hate the open look...

And ideas or help would be useful . If noone chimes in, this will at least be a record of things.

((Anyone who knows me from the forum... I am in the middle of selling my 55g :/ and want to get this all ready to setup when i move)) will eventually be a shrimp tank
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:26 PM   #2
Salmon McCloud
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What would actually be supporting the tank is the boards going up and down. Thats where the majority of the tank's weight is being supported. So If you do two doors I say take the door off the front and add two to the back area cause that may be wide enough, otherwise I would just build a stand from scratch

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Old 09-09-2013, 02:35 PM   #3
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Have you thought about turning it around and making a door or two doors for the back?
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:56 PM   #4
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Wow. Keep it simple huh? Thatd work great actually...

So i wouldnt need to add an up and down support in between the doors right? And i can just throw away the back door...

Now i just need help with the shelf and staining...
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:12 PM   #5
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If you paint the stand then it will be easier to match the doors. If you simply screw two 1by 1 sticks to the inside of the side supports you can put your shelf on that.

Staining Pine to match pine isn't easy. If you want that look use a poly-stain.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:24 PM   #6
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Staining Pine to match pine isn't easy. If you want that look use a poly-stain.
So, ive got pine wood? Lol.

Our furniture is all cherry colored so i was trying to stay with that... And i dont want the black painted poorly look...

Honestly some parts are darker than others, so how would i fix that? The poly stain? (I have no clue what that is but ill find out)
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:28 PM   #7
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http://www.minwax.com/expert-wood-ti...th-polyshades/
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:52 PM   #8
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I'd do what has been said. Two doors on the back and make it the front. Add a 1 x2 in the center for the doors to hit on. Remove the single door totally. One caveat however. This is a rail and stile door. I think that doing that on two doors with such a narrow cabinet will look "clunky". A partial overlay door would probably look better.

I've used the polystains before and have never been happy with the results. Especially the darker colors. I'd sand the cabinet down as close as I could to raw wood, use a preconditioner then stain and poly. Pine is a blotchy wood (so is cherry). the pre conditioner evens it out. For the most part anyway. You also need to realize that while you may get the color close the grain is a different story. In this case I'd recommend an oil based poly to get the amber tint instead of the starkness of the water based.

Bruce, funny that in the Minwax link they are showing the Bombay Mahogany. That is the worst one for getting an even coat.
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
I'd do what has been said. Two doors on the back and make it the front. Add a 1 x2 in the center for the doors to hit on. Remove the single door totally. One caveat however. This is a rail and stile door. I think that doing that on two doors with such a narrow cabinet will look "clunky". A partial overlay door would probably look better.

I've used the polystains before and have never been happy with the results. Especially the darker colors. I'd sand the cabinet down as close as I could to raw wood, use a preconditioner then stain and poly. Pine is a blotchy wood (so is cherry). the pre conditioner evens it out. For the most part anyway. You also need to realize that while you may get the color close the grain is a different story. In this case I'd recommend an oil based poly to get the amber tint instead of the starkness of the water based.

Bruce, funny that in the Minwax link they are showing the Bombay Mahogany. That is the worst one for getting an even coat.
From google i take that partial over lay is a flat door compared to rail and stile which is chunky and has extra trim? I didnt want the same type of door i want a flat door with inside hinges...

I am listening for more/different stain options and i will take the info to my guy
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankYouVeryMuch View Post
From google i take that partial over lay is a flat door compared to rail and stile which is chunky and has extra trim? I didnt want the same type of door i want a flat door with inside hinges...

I am listening for more/different stain options and i will take the info to my guy
Not quite.

There are basically three ways a door can sit on a cabinet. Full overlay is what your current door is. It is totally outside the face frame.

An inset door is set into the face frame. This is a bit tougher to do because any variance in the gap between the door and the face frame is noticeable.

A partial overlay door has a rabbet on the inside face so that it sits partially on the frame and partly in the frame. In addition usually the door has a round over on the outside. Usually it is made of a "solid" piece of wood. In actuality it is made with a glued up panel.

There is a fourth type. It's the European door. No face frames at all. Think ADA stand.

A rail and stile can have any of the overlays
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Last edited by GraphicGr8s; 09-09-2013 at 06:54 PM.. Reason: 987
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:46 AM   #11
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I pretty much agree with what has already been said above, the stand has plenty of support in the right places (corners), and I think it would be easier to put two doors on the back.

I think matching the finish would be pretty difficult, so I'd probably favor paint.

One finishing method that I'm rather fond of is to take the piece of furniture, lightly char it with a propane torch, and then scrub it down with a nylon bristle brush. Blow/vaccuum/wipe off the dust (this is incredibly messy, do it outside, and wear a mask...), and then coat with a sealant (I've used tung oil and shellac).

I like it because it's relatively easy, it's repairable, it doesn't require sanding, and it really brings out the grain of the wood (literally). But really messy. Not sure how it would work on a piece that is pre-stained or whatever.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
I

Bruce, funny that in the Minwax link they are showing the Bombay Mahogany. That is the worst one for getting an even coat.
+1 to that. I've been using the Bombay for my stand and it's ridiculous. And add to that Arizona heat. It dries in about 20 seconds, blotchy or not lol.
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