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Old 08-06-2013, 04:08 PM   #16
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I went intending to purchase Kordons but the sales lady said she had used it and it stained the silicon at each seam of her tank green. I did not want that so I tried the tetra stuff.
I think you're talking about a different product. Kordon sells the traditional ich medicine, but they also make an organic version called ich attack. I applied a double dose to my tank last night, and it definitely didn't stain the sealant.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:13 PM   #17
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i've had to use kordon's a few times. it does stain the water on initial dose but it clears up in a few hours. it has never stained my seams... but i guess if you're dosing right on the seams, it may happen?
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:43 PM   #18
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alright, they are going to get to know me there, I will go back and get the bottle of Ick Attack I saw last night. My UV bulb died overnight so I can get another of those at the same time,
thanks
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #19
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alright, they are going to get to know me there, I will go back and get the bottle of Ick Attack I saw last night. My UV bulb died overnight so I can get another of those at the same time,
thanks
I hope you are able to save your fish. I'm hoping for the best for my tank as well. I started the treatment last night. Everybody was eating eagerly this morning when I fed them, so I'm hopeful that all or most will survive. I'll use this thread to update the progress of my ich treatment.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:56 PM   #20
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Update-last evening- After 1 day of using the Tetra Ick meds the problem has gotten worse, more dots of Ick especially on the clown loaches. Temp increase is now 86. I stopped last night and bought a bottle of Kordon Ick Attach and used that instead of a second application of the Tetra. I did a 40% water change before adding the Kordon even though it said it was not required.

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Old 08-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #21
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I raised my temp up to 84 degrees last night although I'm trying to get it up a couple of degrees (not sure if my heater can accomplish this). I also applied my second dose of Ich Attack. As I understand it, the medicine works slowly, so it may take a week or longer to see a noticeable difference in the tank. All my fish are still active and hungry, but I did notice that more of my fish are scraping themselves against my plants. I'm a little worried, but I won't be too concerned until I start to see my fish lose their appetites.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:40 PM   #22
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My temp is now up to 85 degrees. I thought I noticed less white spots on my fish last night, but there appeared to be more this morning. The good news is that all my fish still rush to the top of the water when I come near the tank expecting to be fed. The blue guppy that introduced the disease to my tank is still eating, which is a good sign since he's the most heavily infected of all my fish. He has developed a bit of a waddle when he swims, but I'm hoping that he'll pull through OK. I'm hoping the spots will be gone from all my fish by the end of the weekend. On a different note, it seems like all my fish are handling the 85 degree temp just fine including the neons and corys even though they prefer cooler temps. My female GBR has perked up considerably since raising the temp and is showing some nice colors. Can't wait for her to lose those ich spots though.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:55 PM   #23
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I have my tank at 86 degrees. I added my second dose of Ick Attack last night. Fish and plants seem to be OK, (not counting the Ick spots). My three Clown Loaches each have lots of dots and this morning maybe more than last night which had more than the day before) Will continue this evening with the third dose of Ick Attack.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:33 PM   #24
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Its normal to see more white spots as you raise the temperature initially as you are speeding the reproduction of the parasite. Its only affected by any treatment while its free swimming. So either falling off the fish or trying to finding a fish. After 4 days you should not see any increase in white spots at all. Quite the opposite.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:35 PM   #25
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Its normal to see more white spots as you raise the temperature initially as you are speeding the reproduction of the parasite. Its only affected by any treatment while its free swimming. So either falling off the fish or trying to finding a fish. After 4 days you should not see any increase in white spots at all. Quite the opposite.
Nice, so the spots should be all gone by this weekend if the heat plus meds are working properly.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:37 PM   #26
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Technically. Though some strains of ich have been seen to live through very high temperatures.

Btw all my info comes from : http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

I had to read that once and it stuck to me.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Technically. Though some strains of ich have been seen to live through very high temperatures.

Btw all my info comes from : http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

I had to read that once and it stuck to me.
I read that article too and saw that some reports have stated that ich can survive temps of up to 92 degrees. However, the person who wrote the article says that he's never heard this reported by an fish keeper.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:55 PM   #28
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I have had my tank temp at 86/87 for five days now. I am using Ick attack each day. Hard to be sure but I looked at my three clown loaches this morning and they appear to have fewer spots today. And the spots remaining seem to be smaller. I'll know more tomorrow but maybe the high temp has begun to work.

Assuming this works I have a related question. I am in the process of setting up a used new 120. Looks like I will have water in it next weekend. I had planned to use a start from the current tank before the Ick outbreak. How long after I see the last evidence of Ick should I wait before doing this? Or, should I not plan on doing it at all.

How sophisticated does a quarantine tank need to be? Can I just get a 5g tank, a bubble filter, a heater, and lamp?

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Old 08-11-2013, 02:10 PM   #29
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Don't use anything from your old tank to start a new tank. Start with ammonia and a fishless cycle.

The quarantine tank can be as simple or complex as you want. Just use it to quarantine everything you add to your main tank for at least 6 weeks before you add to main tank.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:21 PM   #30
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I used to acquire Clown Loaches from Petsmart that would always have ick or get ick. I have used/experimented using Malachite Green, aquarium salt, and a heater. From my experience, it's about the quantity of the chemical. Using 1/4 recommended dose of Malachite Green and a heater seemed to have the best result. Water changes were also essential and my Clown Loaches never died from overdose or the ick. Aquarium salt doesn't do much as it will only be effective in doses that would make Clown Loaches stressed out.
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