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Old 07-27-2013, 04:41 AM   #16
perfectly_circle01
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If I add water from my RO filter, I do not need to add dechlorinator, correct? The RO filter should remove that? Are there issues with adding too much dechlorinator?
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perfectly_circle01 View Post
If I add water from my RO filter, I do not need to add dechlorinator, correct? The RO filter should remove that? Are there issues with adding too much dechlorinator?
Dechlor is not needed for RO water. Two problems I've seen with too much dechlor, or at least with Novaqua, which I use. If over time, you add enough for the whole tank when doing top-off, them you can get a foaming buildup on the surface. If you have a ten G tank and add enough for ten gallons when really only adding one gallon of water, it can build up. I don't know about other types of dechlor.

The other problem, and I am probably the only one dumb enough to have done it, was to go to about 1/2 dechlor, again Novaqua. That killed everything.

I was filling a 2.5 G tank, thought I had a jug of water and had the gallon jug of Novaqua. Don't do that.
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dGH 55, dKH 12, TDS about 1000 ppm
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:01 PM   #18
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Many people will advise that ph is not so important with cherries as they adapt pretty readily to different levels. In my experience I couldnt keep cherries alive in my tap water of 8.2 ph for any length of time no matter how "perfect" the other conditions were. Once I started using distilled water remineralized with salty shrimp my cherry population exploded to the point I was selling babies every other month or so to keep the population in check.

I would try using a mixture of the tap and r/o to get as close to ideal conditions as possible. Once your colony gets established and healthy you can do like I did and start slowly moving towards the tap conditions if the r/o is too much hassle to use.

As a side note for the future, once you start having babies and you will trust me make sure you have a food source specifically for the babies. Again my experience is they dont thrive with just biofilm as a food source. I was fortunate enough to make some great friends here and win a couple raok's which provided me with products which made a world of difference.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:24 PM   #19
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If you have water that's at pH of 8.2, you also likely have water that's rather hard. Potentially too hard for even Cherries - if they're not used to extreme hardness. That's why we always ask folks for their KH and GH - two things that are far more important than acidity for Neos.

That doesn't mean pH isn't important. Just less important than hardness and parameter stability.

If you have a really mature tank (say, 5-6mos), there will be plenty for baby shrimp to eat. Even the most sensitive Taiwan Bees. But it's always nice to supplement what's naturally in the tank.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:14 AM   #20
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Is the pic of your tests results for ammonia clear in color? It looks like the ammonia one is clear, did you add both solutions?
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:02 PM   #21
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Well, one silly thing I did as Denske mentioned, was not add bottle number two to the ammonia and nitrate (nitrite?) test. I thought they were spare bottles. Reading the instructions closely helps :P I re-tested last night, and the levels were still at zero from what I can see.

I did about a 25% water change last night, and replaced with water from my kitchen's R/O filter. I tested water around lunch time today, and saw that my pH was still around the 8.4 mark, but my GH and KH dropped from 8 to 5. It seems like a big drop, or my tests were off a bit. When I tested my bucket of R/O water from the sink, the pH was around 7.0. I guess I expected some kind of pH drop in my 20 gallon shrimp tank.

I would like to get my pH down to the mid 7 range, but am a bit leery to mess around with that given my current water testing. Would something like pH Down be safe to try, or would it potentially cause a crash? I'm guessing I don't want my KH or GH to go down any further.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:48 PM   #22
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RO water won't give you a stable pH reading because there's nothing in it to buffer it in a certain spot.

When you do water changes with RO water, it has to be remineralized BEFORE you add it to your tank. If you dropped your GH from 8 to 5, that's extreme.

Stop messing with your pH. Focus on hardness - KH and GH. Messing with your pH is going to cause you more problems than you're prepared to deal with.

Go read the sticky here in the Shrimp section. That is where you should start.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:41 AM   #23
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I double checked KH and GH, and the numbers are probably more like 6. Either way, it is a big drop, while pH didn't seem to move much at all.

My intent wasn't to drop my KH/GH that much. I was trying to bring my pH/KH/GH down a touch by adding some R/O water. Some have said my original water parameters should have been fine. Others have said they have been unsuccessful with a pH as high as mine. I've read of some people who could nearly raise them in a mud puddle :P So, I'm stumped and frustrated. The only thing I can remotely go by, is that it seems I usually had a dead shrimp within a day of finding a molt. Maybe that is sheer dumb luck. Maybe it means nothing.

The issue being is that I don't know why I'm experiencing a slow die off over the course of two months. I figured I could either try to get my pH and hardness down to more "commonly accepted" RCS numbers, or buy another batch and hope they do not die (without knowing why they died in the first place).

I've gone through the shrimp sticky section. I've also tried doing some reading on other sites. I admit I am very new to keeping shrimp, but it also seems that people do tremendously well with "worse" water parameters.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:47 PM   #24
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Let your tank mature for a while without messing with parameters. When you make adjustments, do so slowly and over an extended period of time.

Once things are stable, then you'll have a better feel for what's going on and will be more successful with shrimp.
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