GDA fast method???
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:50 PM   #1
marios
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GDA fast method???


Ok I had this idea about GDA that might work. I have not tested it but I want to hear your ideas.

The idea is the use of a UV while daily scrapping off the GDA off the glass. This way free floating spores will be killed by the UV before returning on their glass habitat.

I am assuming that the time required for this method should be much shorter than waiting for life cycle to complete.
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Old 03-06-2007, 05:31 PM   #2
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Nope- I've tried it.
It just takes longer for the GDA to re-establish itself on the glass- but it comes back every time green as ever.
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Old 03-06-2007, 09:09 PM   #3
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I have been keeping quiet for some time about GDA, because I haven't yet been 100% successful in getting rid of it. So, guess what? It's baaaaaack!

This time I have left it alone in the tank for 4 weeks now. It is thinning out by itself, turning slightly less green, and I can see thru it easily now. I will leave it alone another week, then clean it out.

Has anyone been thinking about the ecological niche this algae has in natural settings? How often do you see a natural body of water with slick glass walls around it? Obviously this particular algae just lives on our tank sides because they are convenient, but in nature it almost certainly lives on plant leaves, and I think that's why my plants get a green fuzz algae anytime I have GDA on the glass. So, my green fuzz is gradually declining now too, which supports my contention.

One bit of good news is that each time this algae comes back it seems to be less robust, and less thick on the glass. Maybe eventually it will be just a faint green haze on the glass for all of us.

I swear, if it comes back one more time I will get a UV filter and try that method, because it seems so logical that it should work.
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:55 PM   #4
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I have a UV (Turbotwist 18 on a 55) on 24/7. Trust me. It doesn't work .
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:03 PM   #5
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Glad you piped in on this Hoppy. Mine too has been diminishing but I've been cleaning each week at WC. What I find interesting is it's regrowth seems to follow the light intensity.
Depending on the hight of my Tek Light over the tank a belt of GDA changes position on the tank wall by the end of the week... Raise it up and it climbs higher. Lower it down and the belt is noticeably lower.
I know there have been blackouts attempted but at some point if this algae is so light sensitive maybe a good cleaning/24/7 UVS/daily mag cleaning/blackout may be in order?

In other words, Only time the black out is lifted is to float the mag cleaner over the entire tank.

I don't mind the regime so much just yet but I did have to take my back ground off the ease the ritual at WC.

If it gets out of hand again I may try the blackout and see what happens for my tank.
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Old 03-12-2007, 03:42 PM   #6
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I got sick of waiting it out and overall trying to rid myself of this GDA. So, I took the simple route. I let it go on the back and it gets weaker, but on the front and sides I use my mag float cleaner daily and .... bingo ... no issues.

Why stress when it takes but a minute daily to run over the glass to clean. I have been doing this for two months with no issues.

Now Diatoms... thats another story. HELP!!!
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:27 PM   #7
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For me UV was the only thing that solved the GDA issue.

I had tried the leave it alone method and blackout method. Both without success. That is why I decided to buy the UV. Since then my tank has been GDA free.
Of course, there are some factors that affects how the UV works. You need to have good water circulation and at the same the flow passing through the UV cannot be so high that it does not get enough exposure.

Another interesting factor is my tank endured almost 2 years without GDA problem. Once it got GDA the only think that solved was the UV. I think a change of lights trigged the GDA.
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:29 PM   #8
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I am not sure how your UV got rid of GDA. I have an 18watt unit on mine with water going through at approximately 250gph and it does not help one bit with GDA. It is on round the clock. Green water is a non-issue, but GDA still is.
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Old 03-13-2007, 01:28 PM   #9
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Key here may be exposure time. Reducing the flow through the UVS may kill this off? But it would have to be dislodged to go to the pump too... I don't know about you but mine is on the pump return. Plumbing rebuild may include a UVS bypass to control the exposure time. I too run UVS 24/7 and still require a weekly wipe down.
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Old 03-13-2007, 02:11 PM   #10
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Do you folks with GDA problems have proper filtration with proper media?
When the filter's micro-organisms are thriving, the water will be crystal clear and there is no algae growth, I have found this to be very true.
I have seen some of you talking about this for a long time, makes me question how you have your system setup.
Proper filtration with proper media with adequate C02 w/ the right balance of light and ferts.
Hoppy you said at one time that you cleaned your filter every two weeks?! that is to much from my experience which would not allow the filter to properly build the beneficial bacteria colony even if you had proper media.
I don't have and have not had a GDA problem in a very long time and I run three very high light tanks side by side.

I recently switched two of my filters over to the ADA Bio Rio because it was time, and I wanted to try the Bio Rio plus it is cheaper than the competative brands.
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:00 AM   #11
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If the plants in the tank are growing well, and there is a lot of plant mass, a biological filter doesn't gain you much. The plants "filter" the water, as far as getting rid of ammonia is concerned. I use my filter primarily for water circulation and to get the water to look clean, not for biological filtration. I have to replace the filter element in my filter about weekly or a bit longer or the flow rate drops too low for good water circulation. It is an easy job with the Magnum 250 HOT filter I use. I don't doubt that a good maintenance schedule will control GDA, once you have pretty well removed all of it. But, I happen to get lazy too often, or, actually too busy, so my maintenance usually isn't adequate for that.

Several years ago I had a 120 gallon tank, which had GDA. It went away pretty well on its own, and from then on I went about 2 years with none. I doubt that any of us can be sure just what causes that to happen.
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:36 AM   #12
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what i did is paint the back glass black so u cant see it so i never cleaned it but it was there and never touched it and it went away by its self
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Old 03-14-2007, 04:21 AM   #13
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I still wipe it out every week. The only difference now it is difficult to notice that it needs to be cleaned and would be perfectly ok not to clean every week. Before the UV I would also wipe only once a week but after a week you would notice the green tint but you would be able to see through. I am not sure if this is GDA as you really need to scratch it off.

When I had the GDA infestation, I would wipe in the morning and in the evening you would see a slight green tint on the wall. The next day it would be stronger and in 3 days it would be difficult to see the fish. Also the green tint would come off very easy, just with the bare hands. The only thing that worked for me was the UV. I guess that I do not need the UV anymore but as I made the investment
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:41 PM   #14
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My UV is 26W and it didn't help at all.

The algae did however stop returning once I got my fert/waterchange/CO2 on track. I currently dose about 1/2 EI recomneded micros and K, I do not dose phosohates or nitrates at all (heavy bioload) and do my weekly water changes. 220W over a 90 gallon on 12 hours a day. I have a tank full of quick growing stems and I turn the CO2 up until everything pearls (but the fish don't gasp). Not exactly a scientific answer I know...
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoseHawke View Post
I have a UV (Turbotwist 18 on a 55) on 24/7. Trust me. It doesn't work .
Ditto we long tried this, back in 2000 or so.
It was on a 50 gallon with 110 w of light that I first saw this alga.

He had a 15 w on a 50m gal tank without success and he cleaned all the time.
He has a nice filter as well.

I had a lot of troubles inoculating GDA. Only in recent times have I been able to induce, thus confirm, some possible causes.

If you do not confirm and induce it on purpose, it just happens and then you try and go back and figure out what you did, that's a poor method.

I'm finishing up with the Cladphora right now, and did two pilots for the GDA.

It comes back more when the CO2 is lower, and when you add ferts, there does seem to be a relationship between fish load and the alga, it might respond to NO3 more and decrease to NH4.

That's not an easy balance and it's subtle at best.

I have several tanks, and some will just not get GDA no matter how many times I inoculate. Same filter, same substrate(ADA AS), same lighting, same ferts etc, plants are different but I do not think it matters.

Lighting seems to play a large role, especially in the middle ranges of the spectrum.

But that too seems not apply, as I've had it go away with the same lights in a few weeks etc.

I've also seen it decline with repeated attacks weekly.
One thing also: repeated attacks also have been very effective if the plant health is very good, it left in 2-3 weeks just doing that in several tanks.

Folks with MH's do not seem to get it, namely just PC lighting.
T5 anyone?
Temp is not it either.

The let it run it's course worked for me, although if I allowed direct sunlight, poor CO2 etc, general neglect etc, it came back.

I think what bothers folks is that it goes away sometimes on it's own without any really action from us.

I've been able to induce it with higher light and poor CO2. Direct sun worked very well. It's patchy where it grows and then later can over take all the glass, loves light and glass.
Substrates do not matter. NH4 may play a role. Cycling/bacteria may as well, herbivores(microscopic) also might play a role.

I do wonder how well folks made sure they had everything in terms of their CO2 and ferts(easier than CO2 to rule out). The issue of CO2 right at the start of the day is another possible problem for inducing it.

Regards,
Tom Barr
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