DIY LED lights for ADA 120P need some Suggests - Page 2
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #16
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The two reasons for spreading LEDs out over the top of the tank are:
You get the most uniform light over the whole substrate, when you also use optics with the LEDs. This isn't much advantage without optics, but still a small advantage.
You get more uniform PAR from substrate to water surface when they are spread out that way. This isn't an advantage if the light is suspended high above the tank, only if it is sitting right at the top of the tank.

Efficiency is not a major advantage with planted tanks, with the low PAR we use, compared to the much higher PAR for reef tanks.

If you want the lowest cost light, you can use non-name brand LEDs, like those sometimes sold on [Ebay Link Removed] There is some risk because you can't be sure that you are getting the light they advertise, and the life you expect. But, conservative design lets you save a lot of money this way.

As Rudger pointed out, until someone does some good side by side testing we can't be sure what the effect of various light spectra will have on plant growth. All we know for sure is that with a broader spectrum of colors from the LEDs, the plants and fish will look more colorful, which is a pretty good reason for trying for the broader spectrum.
Those are all great points but it just makes no sense to me for him to use expensive XM-L's if he's only going to run them at 1a. The Luxeon ES chips can put out close to the same lm at that current with less forward voltage. Also his driver/power supply options become a lot more limited with XM-L as you not just need a high voltage but also high current unit too.

Another option that could work for him is 4 Luxeon M with 60deg optics hung about 24-30" from the substrate. Only problem is that steve's only come in 5000K flavor. All he has to do is make 4 mini pendants from a cpu heatsink and fan.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:25 AM   #17
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gus6464 looks like you have convinced me not to use XML as i was very addict to it but what about cree XTE ( http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/1...d-emitter-with ) i just don't have access to The Luxeon ES to buy it as long as i am buying form chines websites because i live in Egypt
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:51 AM   #18
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gus6464 looks like you have convinced me not to use XML as i was very addict to it but what about cree XTE ( http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/1...d-emitter-with ) i just don't have access to The Luxeon ES to buy it as long as i am buying form chines websites because i live in Egypt
Those are R5 bins so that's good. At 1a you are probably looking at 300lm with a foward voltage of 3-3.2v. Are you planning on optics? What were you thinking of in terms of drivers?

Mean Well ELN series are both driver and power supply but they have a minimum voltage of 24v to run which means you have to have at least 8 leds wired to it.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #19
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yeah i want to use optics that does not spoil much light out of the tank so i was thinking to use 45 or 30 degree optics, about drivers i want to try Mean Well ldd drivers with total 24 leds 2 rows of 12 but i dont know much about Mean Well ldd drivers and how i can use them temporary without controller
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:43 PM   #20
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yeah i want to use optics that does not spoil much light out of the tank so i was thinking to use 45 or 30 degree optics, about drivers i want to try Mean Well ldd drivers with total 24 leds 2 rows of 12 but i dont know much about Mean Well ldd drivers and how i can use them temporary without controller
You can wire the LDD's straight into the power supply and they will work.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:35 PM   #21
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OK now if i connected a Mean Well ldd driver to a 24 volt power supply how much it will give me is it same as the power supply 24 volt or it will boost it to 52 volts as this is the maximum output volts for the ldd driver ?
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:04 PM   #22
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OK now if i connected a Mean Well ldd driver to a 24 volt power supply how much it will give me is it same as the power supply 24 volt or it will boost it to 52 volts as this is the maximum output volts for the ldd driver ?
Power supply requirement is based on load. If you put less than 24v load on the LDD you can use a 24v PSU. There is no boosting and your PSU will blow if you try to load more than 24v on it if it's only rated for that.

The max # of XT-E you can put on an LDD with a 24v PSU is 7 LEDs. You can double that with a 48v.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:03 AM   #23
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i got inspired from this thread ( http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184258 )

so what about this

using 30 Cree XTE leds as 10x Cool White 10x Nature white and 10x Worm white all running at 1000mA current

setup is a 3 rows of 10 leds , the Nature white and the cool whit are mixed at the sides and the worm whit are in the middle like this pic



so what you guys think about this mix ?

i want to take your opinion on the lenses what if i used 30 degree optics for the CW,NW leds and used 45 degree optics for the WW leds i wanted to use narrow optics so there will be no light spoil out of the tank ? as the leds will be about 14' above the tank

and here is a draw made by google skechup if i used 30 degree optics for CW,NW and 45 degree optics for the WW



i hope you guys don't get bored from me
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:00 AM   #24
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Why so narrow optics? That's a lot of LEDs for such narrow optics.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:11 AM   #25
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When light hits the water it will refract more downward. If it is enough to matter for you, I don't know. I might want to aim for slightly less than even coverage at the water surface. To reduce spill over on the front side of the tank you can hang the light toward the front but tilted back.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:27 AM   #26
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so any suggestions about the optics or even the whole setup i just want to build it perfectly

Last edited by Gamezawy; 07-23-2013 at 02:28 AM.. Reason: missing
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:16 AM   #27
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If the optics are cheap enough get a set aiming for even coverage at water surface and a set for substrate level and see what works out best for you. Either that or be willing to try changing the height of your fixture about 12".

For reference I used 40 degree optics somewhere near 15 inches above the top of a 60p on an 18 inch long heat sink. There is some spillover though.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:40 PM   #28
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The problem with using such narrow optics is that unless they spaced right and height is perfect, it will look like a beam cannon when hitting the water and you will definitely see it. You are going to get spillover no matter what you with so you shouldn't make that as your main concern.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:45 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamezawy View Post
i got inspired from this thread ( http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184258 )

so what about this

using 30 Cree XTE leds as 10x Cool White 10x Nature white and 10x Worm white all running at 1000mA current

setup is a 3 rows of 10 leds , the Nature white and the cool whit are mixed at the sides and the worm whit are in the middle like this pic



so what you guys think about this mix ?

i want to take your opinion on the lenses what if i used 30 degree optics for the CW,NW leds and used 45 degree optics for the WW leds i wanted to use narrow optics so there will be no light spoil out of the tank ? as the leds will be about 14' above the tank

and here is a draw made by google skechup if i used 30 degree optics for CW,NW and 45 degree optics for the WW



i hope you guys don't get bored from me
IMO if you are going to have a dimming circuit there is no need for neutral white. You can get the same color reproduction by dimming cool and warm whites. If 5k look is your goal then you might as well just go all neutral 5K.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:51 PM   #30
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sure there will be a dimming circuit i was planing to have a dimming for every color

and you mean by having dimming circuit i just need cool white and worm white only ?

Last edited by Gamezawy; 07-23-2013 at 04:53 PM.. Reason: missing
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