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Old 07-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #16
O2surplus
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So if I wire the two sets of lights in parallel to the LDD at full blast I will only be getting 500ma per set as the LDD cannot output more than 1a?
Yep. I'm doing that right now with 2 RGB arrays. Each of the 3 color channels can be driven at 700ma, but I have them wired in parallel to a set of (3) LDD-1000H. Now each array "sees" 500ma per channel. I know there's a remote chance that if one of the arrays suffers a failure, the other will "see" the whole 1000ma, but I figure "hey- they're only $15 each, what do I care?" Lol
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:11 PM   #17
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So if I wire the two sets of lights in parallel to the LDD at full blast I will only be getting 500ma per set as the LDD cannot output more than 1a?
that is my understanding.. but keep in mind LED's are generally "at their best" (most efficient )w/ a lower than max allowable output.
So if a string is rated @1a and you use 2 in parallel then you may actually be better off in the long run..and that constant current is derived by changing the voltage (that voodoo is beyond me) to the LED's

Also some of the drivers have a fudge factor that can exceed ratings (another reason to derate the driver a bit ) though I'm sure that might shorten the life of the driver.. (I have a buck puck that states it can be tweaked @ up to +10% of rated amp output)

Other can correct any glaring errors since I AM pretty new to this science..
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:41 PM   #18
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Ok that won't work for the whites as I want to be able to drive the Rebels @ 1a (not that I will remotely come close to having to but I like the option). So I guess it's back to the original plan and going with a 48v 5a PSU. The price difference is $10 anyway and allows for more headroom. I also found a 5 pack of intel heatsinks for $15 so once I get home I will do the complete math and see where I'm at. I am super close to pulling the trigger though just need confirmation on if cool white, green, red, and cool blue are the colors I need.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:06 PM   #19
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Only good reason i've come across for parallel LED's is to keep the voltage requirement down..
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:40 PM   #20
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Well I put in the order for the LEDs from steve, meanwells from powergate, and the power supply. A 48v 5a PSU was going to take 3+ weeks to get here from China so got a 7.3a unit from US seller for a couple bucks more. Acrylic for housing should also come in next week. I can do a build thread if anyone is interested.

Went with 1000ma LDDs all around and 700ma for the Red for more flexibility. This way I can add more cannons to the system very easily by combining the green and blue. Current config will allow for up to 4 cannons.

Last edited by gus6464; 07-19-2013 at 04:50 PM.. Reason: ed
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:03 PM   #21
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I can do a build thread if anyone is interested.

Build Thread
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:33 AM   #22
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Started working on lights today and build thread is up

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=388441
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:12 AM   #23
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Started working on lights today and build thread is up

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=388441

Bit of advice from personal experience.. The 2 part epoxy adhesive didn't work very well for me gluing L channel aluminum to star type heat sinks..
It may be a matter of low surface area on the stars or possibly the fact I didn't bother w/ cleaning the brand new AL .. or heat from the LED's or all of the above.. but whatever it is the bar (3ft long attached to 5 stars..) keeps falling off

You can see the bar along the bottom.. and the 5 stars above:
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:16 AM   #24
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Bit of advice from personal experience.. The 2 part epoxy adhesive didn't work very well for me gluing L channel aluminum to star type heat sinks..
It may be a matter of low surface area on the stars or possibly the fact I didn't bother w/ cleaning the brand new AL .. or heat from the LED's or all of the above.. but whatever it is the bar (3ft long attached to 5 stars..) keeps falling off
I will be using a one part thermal adhesive for the stars and 2 part alumina for between bars and heatsink.

For stars
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Thermal-A...l-Adhesive.htm

For bars to heatsink
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm

The heatsink has a pretty large solid copper base. You think it will stick better to that?
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:20 AM   #25
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I will be using a one part thermal adhesive for the stars and 2 part alumina for between bars and heatsink.


For bars to heatsink
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm
I know.. this is the one that I had the 2 failures with..as much as they say "permanent" I found it wasn't so.. maybe due to weight as well.. just an FYI.. you have much smaller pieces than a 3 foot bar..

I suspect any solid to solid attachment is better than trying to attach a solid piece to the thin edges of the heatsink fins...
In my case it was actually fortunate that it came loose (twice) since I have some light angles to deal with..

I assume you are going to attach the LED's to the bars and bars to heat sinks.. You have much less weight than I have... And considering the cost and working time I was a bit light on the application on the first attempt..

IF I was going to do what you are doing I think I'd consider using ample industrial epoxy (which I could really goop it into the fin spaces in a few spots and a thermal compound (non adhesive) on the majority of the remaining surface area.. for cost, security and heat transfer.. But this doesn't mean you way won't work, I just got a bit gun shy from the failure of the expensive adhesive..

fun test... so maybe you shouldn't worry...
http://www.targetpc.com/hardware/coo...e/index2.shtml

Quote:
I estimate that after less than an hour, a surface area of 1 cm2 could hold 10 lbs. This equates to 64.5 lbs/in2 of holding power! Needless to say, "permanent adhesive solution" is a well deserved name. Imagine covering several square inches of heatsink area with this adhesive and attempting to pry it off later. Something's gonna break.

Last edited by jeffkrol; 07-21-2013 at 05:42 AM.. Reason: glue
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