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Old 07-10-2013, 04:37 PM   #46
Finalplay10
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Yeah I want to see the water that can permeate an air tight cedar lined box

Last of the parts should be arriving today. I have about a 1000 things to do for my college summer classes so I might not get to the build until tomorrow. Pretty excited though.

Alright I have one pump up and running with a potentiometer attached (also working). It's a 1k potentiometer so I can get it down to a semi slow drip which is perfect. I will post more once the project is finished later tonight.

Case closed:


Case Open:


Electrical:


And yes I know I need to cut those screws... Just don't know how im going to do it yet.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:32 PM   #47
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wow, that was fast.

I demand video of it running
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:35 PM   #48
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Once I get the second pump running ill post a video of them running. I couldn't believe the first one actually worked. Especially with potentiometer hooked up.

Second pump is now hooked up. It threw me for a bit of a loop because I had accidentally inverted the second pump despite the tubes pointing in the same direction as the first. Apparently thats how the manufacturer sent it to me. I just had to reverse the connections and all was well. I will post a youtube video of the system working tomorrow once I get the dosage and timer going. Pretty excited that I was able to build this. Far easier than I expected. All thanks to Mistergreen's knowledge and pictures. Thank you!
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #49
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This sure did make it easy. I thought using peristaltic pumps were more difficult. I guess you never know if you don't try. Thats why I love this forum, so many knowledgeable people actually willing to help.
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Old 07-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #50
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So I measured out the doses this morning and even with the potentiometer turned down as far as I could get it (We are talking a hair movement to the right and this thing is off) I am still getting about 6-7ml per/minute. Which isn't terrible considering that this thing at full blast is 100ml per/min. I wanted to get it down to 4ml per/minute but I am out of ideas as to how I can further slow this thing down without stressing the pump. Both pumps work flawlessly and I have them hung over the side of the tank.

The "Zilla" digital timer that I bought was very easy to install and program. Good digital timer. I need to get some power squids so that I have some more flexibility. Right now I have like 3 power strips and they look like a cluster **** so I need to organize.

I will post video of the auto doser working tonight.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:39 PM   #51
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You can switch out your 12VDC adapter to a 9VDC adaptor. Those adapters are often inaccurate. You're actually getting more power than you need. I measured my 12VDC and it's like 18V. I measured my 9VDC and it's really 11V. Something lower powered can give you the slow rate you need.

Or save some money and just buy a resistor (12-20 ohm, 9 watt), to lower the power coming in.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #52
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Where would one find a resistor such as that? And more importantly where would I tie it in?
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:58 PM   #53
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actually, you can use a voltage regulator too.

12v regulator
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062600

or a 9V regulator
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=12669026

This is what the setup might be. Beware, you'll see the dreaded breadboard again.

Resistor or regulator goes before the pot. Regulator->pot->pump
The resistor, you'll have to order from specialty electronic websites. Radioshack is more available.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:03 PM   #54
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Yeah I am having some trouble finding a 12-20 ohm, 9 watt resistor... Looking into the regulator. Assuming I need two regulators as well?

Alright so the regulator actually looks fairly simple. Any way I could get one of those amazing Mistergreen pictures to show me where all the wires need to be hooked up? Impossible to tell where all the wires go when looking at that breadboard. This is the one I was thinking of grabbing (Amazon.com: 7812 +12V Voltage Regulator TO-220: Automotive) Thank you.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:24 AM   #55
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Give this a try.

regulator_pot by professorminh, on Flickr

You'll need to solder the wires to the regulator. I can't see twisting the wires on.

Getting new 9VDC adapters might be a better solution. They cost the same as the regulator.
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:31 AM   #56
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Alright so I have a question. I have the potentiometer so low that when the timer tries to kick on the pumps they don't turn on. When I turn the potentiometer up it works like a charm. How do I fix this?
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:36 AM   #57
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It is because you get no torque adjusting the current with a pot.. that's why in most applications like this motor speed is controlled by PWM (like dimming LED lights).
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:13 AM   #58
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Ah good point. When the current is really low (slow motor), the motor doesn't have enough momentum from a dead stop to get moving.

There might be an analog way to fix it but it's beyond me. You might have to deal with PWM (digital), the dreaded Arduino.

this might work, a 12V pwm motor controller for cheap

[Ebay Link Removed]
330951884009
360685305289 <- this at least has english on the board.

There are some on amazon as well.

Last edited by Darkblade48; 07-13-2013 at 06:27 AM.. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:59 AM   #59
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Hmmmmm.... Can anybody recommend some decent arduino reading?
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:09 AM   #60
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Arduino isn't difficult but it is much more expensive than you need for this (you'd need an arduino board AND some kind of motor shield to be able to run enough power to the motor, which would run about $40 together, and that's assuming you get a DIY shield which means you'd need to know how to solder stuff too), just get a motor driver/controller board, that shouldn't be any more than $10 max. The ebay items listed above would easily get the job done.

Even that first board at $5 would work fine for you.. english printed on the board is not required. Your DC power goes on the + - terminals on one side and your motor wires go on M+ and M-. You are still "adjusting" your speed with the pot, it just translates the pot value into PWM instead of adjusting the current. Torque problem at slow speeds completely solved
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