Question about filter hose routing
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:11 PM   #1
PamAndJim
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Question about filter hose routing


I am begining to wonder if there is a better way to route my hoses from my fx5. Below is a picture of how it's set up now. I have the hoses looping like this because I have always heard it's better to have long looping curves as opposed to tight corners. But, I have read a lot of stuff recently saying that doing this could cause air to get trapped in the hose. It hasn't been an issue with the fx5 because of the auto purge that it does. But, I have a Cascade 1000 (soon to be upgraded to an API XP XL (XP4)) on the other end of the tank. I have the hoses run in a similar fashion and have a terrible time getting it to prime, which I think might have to do with the way the hoses are routed. I have also noticed summer micro bubbles coming out of the output. So, I am wondering if it would better to put some 90 elbows in such a way that I can remove the loops. I realize I may lose some flow, but I'm not too concerned with that as these two filters on a 125 gallon should be plenty. What are your thoughts?

Also, you may not be able to tell from the pics, but the tank is drilled and the ball valves you see are attached directly to the bulkheads in the bottom of the tank. So, there's not a lot of room to work with under there. But I think I could make it work if I install the elbows, turn the filter around, and criss cross the hoses.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:12 PM   #2
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:28 PM   #3
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:30 PM   #4
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Here's a very crude sketch of what I am thinking of doing.

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Old 05-23-2013, 09:50 PM   #5
HD Blazingwolf
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why not get sweeping 90's they will cost you more but cut down on head pressure loss, and have the same genneral effect as the curvd hoses u have
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:25 PM   #6
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I thought about that, but I don't know if I have the height for the sweeping 90s. I might have to see if I can make it work.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:43 PM   #7
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Another question; Would it be better for the loops to be horizontal rather than vertical?
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #8
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Horizontal would require/use less pressure then vertical (more height = more head pressure)
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:24 AM   #9
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I'm not certain, but I don't think the orientation would have much of an effect on head. - I think all that would matter is the height difference twixt the entrance and exit points.

Though, the loops might contribute to some pressure loss due to friction from the extra length, but that might be pretty minimal.

Setting the loops in a hroizontal arrangement might let you angle them in such a way that the bubbles will flow 'up', and not collect at the top of the loop.

maybe you can stick some 45 bends on the bottom of the ball valves, and then just use a short piece of tubing to connect them (not sure if there is enough height in there for that)
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:33 AM   #10
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Imagine that you released an air bubble out of the filter at the hose connector. You want that bubble to be able to travel up your hose by itself with the filter not running. This goes for both the input and output side. I myself leave loops like you because I like the ability to pull a filter out of the cabinet. Sometimes you have to manipulate the hoses when having trouble priming. You create an easier path for the air to move up.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:05 PM   #11
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you might even be able to use a 45 elbow to run the tubing. it might come in at a weird angle but may be feasible
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lochaber View Post
I'm not certain, but I don't think the orientation would have much of an effect on head. - I think all that would matter is the height difference twixt the entrance and exit points.
In a canister filter height difference between the entrance and exit points has no effect on the load at all. The vertical distance between tank and the canister has no effect on the load either (aside from the extra friction from the longer hose).

In a canister filter the only case when height has effect on the load is when the output nozzle is not submerged (as would be the case with non-submerged spray bar, for example). But even in this case the only "height" that makes a difference is the distance between the nozzle and the water surface, i.e. it is typically very small.

To the original poster: Your loops look perfectly fine. With the powerful filter you have you will never encounter any problems with trapped air in the hose. As long as your hose is not developing any kinks and does not collapse, you are fine. If you notice that your hose is kinking or collapsing, they you'll either have to increase the radius of the loop or implement tight turns with rigid PVC plumbing.
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