Tank now cycled - a few issues to address
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:41 PM   #1
paul195
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Tank now cycled - a few issues to address


Hi

My tank is now cycled and I am getting consistent readings:-

Temp. 25
pH 8.2 (raised from john innes 3 soil)
Ammonia 0.25 (0) (believe API low range to be inaccurate) (same as tap)
Nitrite 0 (same as tap)
Nitrate 10 (same as tap)
KH 11 dKH (same as tap)
GH 15 dGH (same as tap)
Phosphate 2.5 (same as tap)

Before I buy my first fish (otto's), I wanted to see if I could tackle the following issues first :
  • Bladder snails - I thought I had managed to remove them all after keeping an eagle eye out, but they have come back in numbers and now there is a good number of them. I know that less food = less snails, but as there is still alot of algae in the tank they have lots to feed on. I don't mind having snails in there in small numbers but as the population is already high, whats the options? Should I consider buying a product to eradicate them? or fish to eat them?



  • Based on the pic above I believe I have diatom algae (the brown bits all over the wood), green spot algae (just under the java fern), and hair algae (over the moss and pogestemon). Can somebody ID this to let me know if I am correct ? I have removed the algae with the turkey baster before doing a water change several times but it keeps coming back. Will otto's tackle any of this ? any ideas on how to treat?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:52 PM   #2
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:06 PM   #3
dudebro
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Default Tank now cycled - a few issues to address

Do lots of water changes. but I think your tap water is part of the problem. I'm no expert but your kh and gh look high. I had ammonia readings in my tap. Remineralized RO is a good water to keep pristine parameters. I switched and have not looked back.

Some fish love snails and can take them all out in time. Also, fish like Molly's can eat some algae.

What is your lighting set up and photoperiod?
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:08 PM   #4
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Default Tank now cycled - a few issues to address

Algea treatment helps a lot .. I'd suggest that help to get this under control - not good for shrimp though
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:29 PM   #5
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Get some assassin snails and watch your tank be free of unwanted snails. Burn your lights for a shorter period of time. 6-8 hrs is about all you need for now. Its normal to get algae during a cycling period. Otos love diatom and soft green algae. They can be sensitive to a new aquarium though.

Algae treatment will only help if you know the source of the problem(s). Its better to find and solve than to patch it. Lighting and nutrients are typically your main culprits.

His GH looks moderate at the most to me. My GH is off the charts so I actually envy him because I am forced to use a R/O system for the fish I keep. Dudebro I am in Garland and our GH is high from tap. I would assume Dallas is up there as well. Test it out and you might get a shocker yourself, lol. Last time I tested water in Dallas the ph was 7.8-8.0 so I am sure the GH was up there.

Oh and if your tank still reads ammonia, without you adding anything to get a reading, your tank isn't completely cycled. Your tank should be able to deplete .1-3ppm of ammonia in 24-36. Until it does, I wouldn't consider it being cycled completely. When I think my cycles are done, I add 3-5ppm to see how long it takes to deplete. Once it hits 24-36hrs, then and only then I deem my tank fish ready. This is what works for me and what I follow. Others have their methods.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:47 PM   #6
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Default Tank now cycled - a few issues to address

Flight, the water here is as you state. It also reads trace ammonia and i recall that the nitrite/nitrates aren't great. I was wanting shrimp long term so I went to RO.. It's been so long I don't recall the numbers. But I have more control now and far fewer issues.

Another tip on that algae... Turn the light off and cover the tank with a blanket. Zero light for a few days should kill most of it off.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:25 PM   #7
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Do you think assassin snails would take care of all of the snails in there now? there are a quite a lot in there of different sizes. What community fish will eat snails?

Another question I wanted to ask is about water changes, initially I was advised not to use hot water from my tap as it comes from the copper hot water cylinder and there may be high levels of copper or other unwanted parameters.

I want to go and find out about the difference between my hot water from the cylinder and the cold water from the tap, because if there is no difference this would make life so much easier for water changes - connect the hose straight to the mixer tap and set to correct temp, rather than boiling endless kettles of water.

What parameters of the cold and hot taps do I need to consider to find out if the hot water is usable?

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Old 05-13-2013, 10:09 PM   #8
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Well FWIW I've never heard anything advising not to use heated tap water. I've used it forever over the years and haven't noticed any issues. Although it could be a different story with shrimp. I've only just started keeping them. But still, of all the reading I've done here, I don't remember reading anything advising against using tap heated water.

The algae you have appears to be diatoms and should disappear after a while on its own.

Otos don't usually do well in a new aquarium. They have a higher success rate when they are put in an established aquarium. They do like diatoms though. If you put some in right away be prepared for some losses. It doesn't have to be super established. I put some in a tank that was less than 6months old and haven't had any die.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelub View Post
Well FWIW I've never heard anything advising not to use heated tap water. I've used it forever over the years and haven't noticed any issues. Although it could be a different story with shrimp. I've only just started keeping them. But still, of all the reading I've done here, I don't remember reading anything advising against using tap heated water.

The algae you have appears to be diatoms and should disappear after a while on its own.

Otos don't usually do well in a new aquarium. They have a higher success rate when they are put in an established aquarium. They do like diatoms though. If you put some in right away be prepared for some losses. It doesn't have to be super established. I put some in a tank that was less than 6months old and haven't had any die.
I was told by a marine biologist that the reason not to use hot water is that in some houses the pipes can leach stuff into "hot water" when passing through pipes (due to the heat of the water) compared to using cold water. It probably applies to older houses/neighborhoods/plumbing, but again, this was what I was told, so it may or may not be accurate
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:41 AM   #10
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I stopped using hot water in my tanks along time ago. My the R/O water I make is around 65-70 degrees by the time I am ready to add to my tank. I pump it directly into my tank from my R/O container without heating it. Depending on the fish you keep there are seasonal water changes that trigger certain behavior in fish. My fish love the coolness of water changes. Its like getting a cool shower on a hot summer day, lol. I am not advising this for this is what I do. My tank temp is set to 75 so when its pump in over the course of 10-15 mins, it doesn't bother them much. If you can't use hot water, prepare the water in a large container, trash can or whatever you want and add your heater there to bring it to the temps of your tank.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:58 PM   #11
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So can I prove somehow if my hot water is suitable ? i.e what parameters must I test to find out ? or should I use it without regard?

Many thanks
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:21 AM   #12
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If the suspicion is copper in the water, then there are copper tests for aquariums. (at least I have seen them in the stores here).
If there is some other issue, perhaps lead in the solder that was used for the copper, then you may have to find some other way to test.

A TDS meter might show you if there is something different between hot and cold.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:09 PM   #13
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Ok thanks, I will have a look out for those tests



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Old 05-16-2013, 12:51 AM   #14
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If your tap water pH is above 7.2 or so, it is highly unlikely that any copper or lead is being leached from the piping. That's why water companies make sure they have a relatively high pH in the water. Otherwise, the plumbing develops holes from the metals dissolving into the water.
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