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Old 04-01-2013, 03:22 AM   #31
jonnyboy
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Just an update for anyone still interested or reading. Did a big water change/cleaning/light adjustment/Co2 change Saturday. Been waiting to do all this because I'm treating the tank for mouth rot right now. Seems to be under control though.

The finnex ray2 led light is now hanging over tank making it 20" over substrate. According to Hoppy's article and estimates that puts me at 50 par. Might raise them a little more depending on algae growth.

Running two DIY Co2 generators that make a little less than 1 bubble per second. Still haven't seen my diffuser I ordered 3 weeks ago.....so have the bubbles going up into a pocket in the driftwood to help the Co2 dissolve better.

Going to order the smallest power head I can find to help make better circulation in the tank. And suggestions? Looking at the hydor koralia 240 right now. Don't want too much current. Also going to get some seachem iron to add with my dosing.

Dosing flourish comprehensive twice weekly, and excel every other day now that I have the Co2 back.

Only new growth I've noticed is on my rangeri sword and those leaves look good. Any leaves on all the plants that aren't new don't look very healthy though....is that normal that thay arent coming back with the new lighting? (I had horrible low lighting for a while)
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:15 AM   #32
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finnex ray2 is too bright, you can try to add some frogbit to your tank or adjust the height of the light,
the eco complete is just insert, doesn't provide nutrients, dosing flourish is not enough
pls refer to EI(google) and
http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/...ed-tank-guide/

Last edited by asuran; 04-01-2013 at 07:46 AM.. Reason: update
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:59 PM   #33
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Yeah so I will raise the light some more and do more tea search on EI dosing. Anyone know of a link they can share that explains what different nutrients actually do for the plant? I want to be able to understand all this inside and out!
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:53 PM   #34
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Yeah so I will raise the light some more and do more tea search on EI dosing.
I would leave your light where it is. It is just a little brighter than mine is over my 29G. The rotala will have better color with the light as it is.

For ferts I would just add Seachem iron for the rotala to get more pink in the leaves. The crypts could use some API root tabs. Cheapest here. No need for the EI fert plan for the plants that you have.

Why not put the co2 tube below the intake of the filter? That is what I have read that many do. Also can put it in the into a powerhead.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:20 PM   #35
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Thank you hilde! I will most likely get some root tabs along with the iron. And I did have the co2 going into the filter intake tube but it didn't seem to make any difference. Tough to tell when I don't have a Co2 indicator. It would also make loud noises which got annoying when I was trying to sleep haha!
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:27 PM   #36
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Tough to tell when I don't have a Co2 indicator.
In the DIY section you may find a DIY indicator. Think I saw 1 there made with plastic ball from toy machine.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:56 PM   #37
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Default Re: my first planted tank...please help :/

IDK if your still having growth issues, but here's my 2 cents

Up the lights.

Substrate fertilization.



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Old 04-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #38
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I don't mind spending $10-$20 for an indicator. Already found one on amazon. And I think if I fertilize the substrate(which I've never done) it will help. The only plants that haven't shown new growth over a reasonable amount of time are the narrow leaf, and the crypts...which are slow growing anyways. So not too worried about growth, mainly healthy looking leaves staying healthy
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:04 AM   #39
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I don't mind spending $10-$20 for an indicator. Already found one on amazon.
Try no ebay links allowed May not have shipping cost.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:27 PM   #40
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I finally got my glass nano Co2 diffuser the other day. It's been installed with a fresh mixture in my two Co2 generators for more than a day now....still no bubbles. Is this one only supposed to be used with pressurized Co2? I did notice that it was extremely difficult to blow air through it when I installed it....wicked frustrating since it took 4 weeks to be delivered....
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:47 PM   #41
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Nvm. I figured it out
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:49 PM   #42
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I'll try to keep this short....but having plant problems again.
My rangeri sword which has never done well, is doing worse. Holes/brown spots on leaves(new or old) and black algae growing on them. Broad leaf has also never done too well is no longer growing, and has always has a 'wrinkly' look to the leaves. My red melon sword has actually done very well at times is looking sickly with leaves dying, wrinkling a little, and black algae on it. The crypts have a bunch of algae on them, but no change with them. They always have a wrinkled look, but I think they're supposed to. The only plant doing well still is the rotala. Also have alotta green/brown algae on bottom

Dosing seachem's flourish, trace, excel, and potassium. Have 11 fish, and 4 amano shrimp. 20 gal tank, with two quiet flow pumping 200gal/hr. temp 77. Par at about 50-55. Lights are on 4hrs, off 2hrs, and then back on for 4hrs. Was running 1 bubble every 4 seconds with my DIY Co2 and diffuser which I've had off for almost a week now. No change in anything from that.

Only recent change I've made is adding the second filter. As always, any help is much appreciated!
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:52 PM   #43
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I am using root tabs btw. They didn't seem to help anything aside from the rotala
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:38 PM   #44
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I put a new root tab under my melon sword a week or two ago and it's putting out all kinds of white roots and 2 new leaves, in the midst of a Cyanobacteria bloom. So I think they work, maybe take a week or two.

I don't know PAR values off the top of my head, but check out the thread on PAR posted by Hoppy and look at the tank in terms of brightness.

Every staggered light description I've read was 4 on, 4 off, 4 on. I don't know that that has anything to do with these problems. It sounds like perhaps one or more of the NPK nutrients is too low, or micros need to be at a higher dose. It has been difficult for me too figure out that kind of problem in my tank. Following is a visual of plant nutrient deficiency symptoms.

http://infographics.myaquacalc.com/?p=333

Nutrient Calculator: http://calc.petalphile.com/
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:16 PM   #45
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I've been using the root tabs and am due for my second usage. It's probably co2 deficiency....I'll have to get an indicator and find a better way of regulating a consistent bubble count. That diagram is nice though! Thanks for that

Any opinions on the seachem plant pack? I don't want to dose daily, so I'm avoiding dry ferts. I like seachem, they're straightforward and easy to use.
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