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Old 05-03-2013, 08:21 PM   #541
mistergreen
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DIY PAR meter, Yeah you heard me


Ok, send me back the meter and I'll refund you. Something is wrong electronically. The photodiode might be blown. It happens. I'm getting normal readings here against t5-ho bulbs. I'll pm you.

Ps. I just checked reading on my DIY led. Readings are dead on. Let me give everybody a tip, on any light sensor, when you're measuring up close to a light source like a bulb, they are wildly variable. You can have one measurement and move the sensor closer to the light by an inch! You can get double the reading. The angle of the sensor can vary the reading as well. Published readings from light manufacturers can be off as well. Take the tip for what it's worth.

For aquarists, the only reading that really matters is the reading on the substrate. That'll give you an idea how much you have and it's physically fixed. You don't need to eyeball the distance to the light.

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Old 05-05-2013, 10:56 PM   #542
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Could something like this be used with a little calibration:
http://publiclaboratory.org/tool/spectrometer
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:43 PM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
Could something like this be used with a little calibration:
http://publiclaboratory.org/tool/spectrometer
nice find. I think you can if the software can output some value (number) based on the light, not just a graph but I don't see that capacity from my quick overview.

Last edited by mistergreen; 05-06-2013 at 01:09 AM.. Reason: ....
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:01 PM   #544
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Default DIY PAR meter, Yeah you heard me

Mr. Mistgreen, if you recall I PM'd directly after receiving the par meter I ordered from you telling you it was reading too high as well. I bought in the same run as Xmas_one. We exchanged PM's but once I sent you pictures you somewhat passed off the issue as I had good growth. Maybe this was a bad batch, I don't know.

I would like the same offer as Xmas_one to send your meter back please. I still have the PM's from you if you do not recall.

Thank you
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:19 PM   #545
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Are any more available to purchase?
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:16 PM   #546
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I will make a few this weekend to sell. I checked up on the complaints on the returned meter. It is indeed a calibration problem. The readings are a bit high about (10 - 20 par ) but not 2x, 3x.
It turned out it's more accurate if I calibrate it against a high light rather than a low light value.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:23 PM   #547
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New firmware with new outdoor function. The new total resistance is ~15.9K ohm instead of the previous 21K-27K.

Code:
// CLOSE ENOUGH PAR Written in Arduino 23 By MISTERGREEN
// for sunlight and indoor light
#include <math.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h> // modified by O2surplus to include correct LCD pinout for "CLOSE ENOUGH PAR Meter" V1.0
                           //  Code also includes provision for seial output of PAR values to a PC.
float average = 0;
float output_indoor = 0;
float output_outdoor = 0;
float factor = 0;
unsigned long time; 
int counter = 0;
// create the LCD
LiquidCrystal lcd(8, 7, 5, 4, 16, 2);
// set up backlight
int bkl = 6; // backlight pin

void setup() {
  time = millis();
  // set up the LCD's number of rows and columns: 
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  // Print a message to the LCD.
  lcd.print("Indoor   Outdoor");
  pinMode(bkl, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(bkl, HIGH);
  // initialize the serial communication:
  Serial.begin(115200); // Max for Arduino Uno
}

void loop() {

  int sensorValue = analogRead(0);
  average += sensorValue;
  counter++;

  //every second or 1000 millis
  if(millis() > time+1000) {
    //corrections to fit par
    average = average/counter;

    if(average <= 560) {
      factor = 2.077;
    } 
    else {
      factor = 1.934;
    }
    float tempout = average * factor;
    //indoor fluorensence
    output_indoor = tempout;
    
    //add 10% to output for sunlight
    output_outdoor = tempout + (tempout * .10);

    // set the cursor to column 0, line 1
    // (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0):
    lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
    // print the number of seconds since reset:
    lcd.print(round(output_indoor));
    lcd.print("   ");
    
    lcd.setCursor(9, 1);
    lcd.print(round(output_outdoor));
    lcd.print("   ");
    
    // send PAR data to the Serial output.
    
    Serial.print(output_indoor);
    Serial.print(",");
    Serial.println(output_outdoor);
    
    //reset timer & counter to get ready for the next second.
   time = millis();
   counter = 0;
   average = 0;
    
  }
  
  delay(5);

}

Last edited by mistergreen; 05-09-2013 at 05:58 PM.. Reason: +
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:12 AM   #548
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Oooooh! New firmware. I'm going to re-flash mine and give it a try. Just as soon as I can pry it away from "ShrimpNewbie" Lol.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:03 PM   #549
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thanks for all the hard work on these meters. i just wanted to add in that i found a cheaper source for the 2447 plexi. estreetplastics i ended up with a 6x12x1/8" peice for 7.15 shipped. im not sure if the larger peices would save you anything but for the person building one of these (myself) it would save 4$ or so.
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:07 PM   #550
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Pm u
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:18 AM   #551
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Hi Mistgreen, its a very long interesting thread and great effort, I read a few posts in starting, few at end few in middle.... and I wish to make one of these. Few questions before I plunge.

1. Is the acrlyic filter necessary for the cup?
2. Can I used it for mix of WW,NW,CW,Red,Rolay blue LEDs, without any concern?
3. Is a PAR meter compulsory if one is building, or do you have any ready made feed in values?


Thanks for your time.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:59 PM   #552
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1. yes the filter is necessary. The data curve would be steep and won't fit the par data curve.
2. Any full spectrum (warm or cool) white light should work great. I would worry with one color light especially yellow and green light.
3. It's best if you can get your hands on a PAR meter to callibrate this against. All sensors will drift after long use anyways. But if you don't have a PAR meter, use the materials and firmware outlined and set the main resistance to ~15.9K.

Last edited by mistergreen; 06-27-2013 at 03:14 PM.. Reason: +
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:56 AM   #553
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Thanks for the reply mistgreen.
I ll take a call once I am able to figure out the 1 and 3.

Cheers!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:39 PM   #554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saiko View Post
Thanks for the reply mistgreen.
I ll take a call once I am able to figure out the 1 and 3.

Cheers!
PM me, I can mail you a piece of the acrylic. I have plenty.

Last edited by mistergreen; 06-29-2013 at 12:40 AM.. Reason: =
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:59 PM   #555
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Just out of curiosity and some questions from reefers,
I wanted to measure color bulbs too.
I had a green bulb around so I included in the measurement.

The bulbs.

Untitled by professorminh, on Flickr

Untitled by professorminh, on Flickr

The light

Untitled by professorminh, on Flickr

Untitled by professorminh, on Flickr

The measurements
control, 14w spiral CF white light
PAR sensor: 3" - 118.5, 6" - 44
CEP sensor: 3" - 121, 6" - 36

Blue bulb
PAR sensor: 3" - 40, 6" - 12.5
CEP sensor: 3" - 32, 6" - 7

Green bulb
PAR sensor: 3" - 29, 6" - 9.5
CEP sensor: 3" - 25, 6" - 5

Conclusion:
The cep reading isn't perfect for color lights but it's in the same ball park.

Last edited by mistergreen; 07-02-2013 at 03:29 AM..
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