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Old 04-22-2013, 12:11 AM   #46
thelub
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That a neat idea for a desktop tank.

One thing I've noticed from my experiments with a 1g cube is it is super hard to cycle and keep from getting crazy ammonia spikes. With such a small water column, it can go bad very quickly.

Please keep us posted when you get some shrimp in there! Do you plan on filtering it at all?
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:11 AM   #47
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I can easily lower the blinds to shade the tank. I also can place a sheet of black construction paper between window and tank to block light.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:30 AM   #48
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Thelub, I do not want to place a filter in the tank. I've been reading as much as I can about small tanks like this and it basically comes down to there are way to many opinions and no real verified articles that give me a solid this is what to do.
I've read and been told 20 percent water change every other day I've been told 50 percent a week and been told 10 percent a day every day. I've read about nano tanks that only require water to be added.
I'm going to test daily and just go from there.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:41 AM   #49
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I started the tank off with a bag of biomax from my other tank about 8 "pond snails" and 50/50 mix water from my planted tank and tap water. I used tank water because indidnt want the bacteria colony from the biomax to die from no food source. The planted tank is heavily planted and has a high fish load in it. So the water column has fish waste in it to feed the seeded bacteria.
On one end I put a air stone with a restricted valve and a thermometer on the other end.
My goal is to remove the air stone. Have a clean simple tank that I can just change water as needed.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:09 AM   #50
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maybe u should have a fan with a temperature controller. So it turns on the fan whenever it goes over a certain temperature.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:51 AM   #51
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(Opae ula, Halocaridina rubra) try these shrimp. They are very forgiving for any fluctuation.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:04 AM   #52
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so ive had experience with my shrimp being in very high temps of water. i had a few cherries in close to 80-90 water on accident once because my room heater was kept on so it heated the water in the tank. they were alive and did well they were just a bit uncomfortable (probably a lot uncomfortable...), so they might be able to tolerate it, but that is probably not the best conditions for them and may stress them out. I doubt that they'd breed, but thats probably not what your goal is with this tank. just keep an eye on the temps. maybe do a trial and monitor the temps for a week or two and maybe take down what the temps are like during certain hours of the day probably best is to do it every three hours.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:37 PM   #53
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I've been tracking the temps and so far past three days its been 68 at lowest 78 at highest. I will continue to monitor temps through the week and see what I get.
I don't want anything to suffer so I won't add live animals besides snails in it until I know it's a stable environment well as stable as this small of a tank can be. I'm thinking no more than 5 shrimp when I finally add them.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:51 PM   #54
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I have a question about water changes on a tank this small.
I did basic water test ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, ph. I have 0, 80,0. I did a 75 percent water change nitrates are down to 20ish.

I know on this thread it's been said that small water changes daily are bad and only do it 50 percent once a week. That is advice I normally head with out question but in a rank this small and nitrates elevating at a more rapid pace. Would t it be less stressful to shrimp if I did a 10 percent daily change keep nitrates at a even level than have them in very high nitrates then shock them with a huge drop then cycle up again than a big drop?
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:08 PM   #55
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I prefer doing larger water changes on small tanks. It keeps the tank water closer to the tap water parameters so that water changes are less stressful since they're creating less change. Only half the water will be different from tap water. With 10% changes, no matter how often, 90% of the water will be different from tap water. I think there are some good calculations/graphs on this relating to the EI method. The premise is different but the results are the same. But that's just me. Smaller water changes would make your tank more like a closed system.

Since you don't currently have shrimp, I would hold off doing water changes now until your tank has cycled. Pulling out the nitrites now will just delay or reduce cycling. To that end you might also want to add a source of ammonia.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:56 PM   #56
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I am sorry I ment nitrates not nitrites. Auto correct can be a cure and a blessing. It was nitrates that were spiked so high. Ammonia and nitrites had allready stabilized.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:01 PM   #57
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Otofish, thank you I did read the EI dosing I do that method for my heavy planted tank and reading what you said makes perfect sense to me. My follow up question is then should I use my nitrate reading determine water change times? I do a 50% once a week for my large tank but nitrates aren't a run away train for that tank. Can I do a biweekly or triweekly water change on this small tank If nitrate levels require it?
The devil I'm wrestling with is higher nitrates less harmful than a more frequent water change?
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:09 PM   #58
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Update

2 days since last water change nitrates are high again. Plants seem to be okay and the snails are breeding like nuts.

In two days nitrates went from 20 up to 80+ ppm.

I'm still not sure what thresh hold nitrate levels can reach before I have to change water.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:15 PM   #59
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The consensus seems to be to change water once it gets 40+
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:45 PM   #60
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I'm glad my explaination of my water change strategy made sense .
Have you thought about adding some floaters? They would block a little of the sun and hopefully eat up your nitrates pretty quickly. Where are your nitrates comming from? Just the snails?
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