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Old 04-14-2013, 10:34 AM   #46
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Red Cherry Shrimp Tank


Placed two teaspoons of crushed coral in my hob filter to increase GH, KH and PH last night it has been 16 hours. Currently am away from tank but seneye reports 7.38 it was 7.01 before I placed the coral.

I also decreased the light duration to 3 hours due to the presence of hair algae.

When I get back home I will check the GH and KH.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:31 PM   #47
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ph: 7.30 (seneye)
gh: 6dH (Tetra test)
kh: 4dH (Tetra test)

The gh and kh almost doubled.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:02 PM   #48
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Did the same test as above

GH: 6dH
KH: 2dH
ph: 7.42

removed the crushed coral will not be able to observe next day.
The CO2 has been turned off the past 2 days.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:25 PM   #49
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Returned the crushed coral on the begining of 17th.

average ph:7.32
gh:6dH
kh:2dH

added one more table spoon.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:33 PM   #50
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From my experience the GH And kh will peak at some point and won't go much higher. As you do water changes it will remove some of the waters hardness and it sort of balances out.

The only downside to crushed coral is it raises the pH of the water. The kh has direct correlation to the pH and is also a representation of the GH value.

I found that its an easy way to keep neocardinas because they will acclimate to higher pH values and do well with the added GH. You only run into issues if you are keeping fish that thrive at a lower pH, like tetra species or other tropical fish. Although they will live in higher pH you will have reduced breeding/ coloration & also opens them up to disease and shortens their lifespan a bit.

If you have hair algae most people will tell you its due to high phosphates and excess nutrients or lighting. Best way I've found to combat it is manual removal and dosing liquid co2. Excel and similar products have been invert safe in my experience but I recommend half the dosage just to be safe. Also use with caution, I see you mostly just have moss in your tank so it may not be fully absorbed and may lead to more algae issues.

Another note: most fish will eat anything that fits in their mouth. Some are more aggressive than others.

I've also found that moss grows and resists algae much better with some water flow on it.

Also with 10 or less shrimp feeding should be very sparse. With moss and algae in the tank they will always have something to graze on. Overfeeding will lead to molting issues. Molting issues leads to dead shrimp :x

My advice would be limit factors that could cause them to die. Feed less, get a stable pH and definitely more plants if you want your tank to benefit from co2 injection. Shrimp are sensitive and even the stress of water changes can cause them to die. Striping means they are ready to breed and they should have yellowish saddles in their upper back behind their head. Once that happens the eggs will move down to their legs and are ready to be fertilized. Once fertilized you will be able to see black spots on the eggs which are their eyes. Wait about 3 weeks and you will have shrimplets. Once you can see shrimplets in the tank make sure to be vary careful with water changes so you don't suck them up, they are pretty tiny for the first few weeks.

From my experience the shrimplets tend to be a little more hardy because they are more used to the water conditions you have provided. And their exoskeletons will grow in a more linear pace compared to the adults or sub adults that you received which could have came from random water conditions.

Once you get past all that you can think about adding more cherry shrimp to diversify your gene pool and then you will be on to your next project, maybe even the harder to keep cardina species.

As far as snails go, some find them an eyesore but I find them beneficial and interesting. If you ever feel they are out of hand you could pick up some assassin snails, but beware they will decimate the population of your snails. And you should always have a cleanup crew in there, otos are awesome but can be very sensitive. In my shrimp tank I decided to go with nerite snails because they are peaceful and don't breed if you just have one.

Please excuse the wall of text This site is great and you can find plenty of information on here.

I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences which may differ from mine, its all a learning process and can be very rewarding!

Good luck!
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Last edited by theericafish; 04-19-2013 at 12:38 AM.. Reason: more stuff.
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:30 AM   #51
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Not at all I appreciate people taking time to share their knowledge.




The part that I hate about manual removal is that it is firmly stuck on the hair grass and when I lift it, the hair grass is lifted with it and its runners. I did try yesterday excel spot treatment. Am facing hair algae and green spot algae and am just hoping that it is hair algae and not cladophora as I have faced cladophora and the price of success is not expensive but tiring.
Actually half of the tank is planted. The strange part about the algae is that it is only appearing in the middle section of tank.

Most say SAE don't eat shrimp, but I believe that fish tend to bite anything that fits their mouths. What bothers me most is rough movements they move fast and sometimes almost bump into shrimps.

Noticed a spur of growth when I reduced the light duration to 3 hours.



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Old 04-20-2013, 12:01 AM   #52
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At least the tank is looking good minus the hair algae . I have a bit I've been battling also and as soon as it entwines in your plants its such a pain. Probably going to pick up a sae or american flag fish today. Although I hear flag fish can be aggressive toward shrimp. So far with excel dosing I have seen a lot of the algae turning a whitish color. There is hope :p

I have seen first hand how a flagfish can control hair algae but it also ate some shrimp I'm that tank :x
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:56 AM   #53
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American flag fish are omnivores, I guess you know that. In the ADA, Tropica and Oliver videos they showed SAe as an hard working elegant fish but they don't show their rough movements and other behaviors that I find annoying (can't think of them right now). Trying to get one of them out of the tank but they are too fast. I remember someone warning me that I put sae it will be permanent but I didn't think it would be this hard.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:39 AM   #54
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Default Re: Red Cherry Shrimp Tank

It turns out the cladophora that had infested in my 135l tank has also infested my shrimp tank. I was able to eradicate the cladophora in the 125l tank. I a shortcut of I did to the 125l tank and hopefully it will be fine.

I noticed it when I got some on my hand the awful smell got to my nose.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:33 PM   #55
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I have some bad news.

After a while of only seeing only one or two shrimps only I decided to trim the java moss where it seems all the shrimp were hiding. When I moved the java moss a lot of dirt came out making the water cloudy. So I decided to fill a bucket half of aquarium water and place the Java moss on it and clean the java moss. I was able to find only 3 red cherries. I tore the Java moss to piece but found none. I found half of Yamato (Amano) shrimp next to the driftwood. I did a 60% water change and added 6 red cherry shrimps and one oto.
Unlike before otos used to die in a few days but due to the crushed coral the PH only fluctuates from 7.72 to 7.52. The GH is 6 and KH is 2. Its been a week and the shrimp seem to be fine.

If anyone who has bred neocaridina with fluval shrimp stratum what are the water parameters and temperature did your shrimp breed at?

I had cladophora in the tank and it has been eliminated but I still have glass algae which seems to be making the oto busy and happy for now.

This is the second attempt I guess. Any advice?
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:57 AM   #56
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Default Re: Red Cherry Shrimp Tank

I woke up today to see that one of my shrimp was torn to bits with a SAE and a red cherry shrimp munching on it.

I decided that I will completely empty the tank to be able to catch the SAE and place them in my other tank. The shrimp and onto will be placed in a bucket until I clean and fix the aquascape of the tank. Hopefully better results.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:41 AM   #57
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Default Re: Red Cherry Shrimp Tank

I did 95% water change removed water until it was barely visible. Placed the red cherry shrimp and Otis in a bucket with aquarium water and placed the sae in another tank. Fixed the landscape, scraped the algae then filled the tank. Waited a few hours for the water temp. and parameters to stabilize before placing the shrimp and Otis back in. Used seachem prime and ocean free pure liquid before placing shrimp.

I also installed a second eheim filter to help keep the water cleaner.

I am thinking of cleaning the gravel, I placed a filter media bag on my siphon tube to stop it from sucking in gravel. Should help remove any dirt under the gravel.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:39 PM   #58
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Default Re: Red Cherry Shrimp Tank II

Did not do the gravel clean up. Posting some pics.

How do I remove this glass algae? Shown in the last pic.
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