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Old 04-16-2013, 07:03 AM   #106
Bettatail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
This is incorrect. Stainless steel together will not fuse together due to galvanic corrosion. By definition, galvanic action only occurs between two different metals when emersed in an electrolyte.

However, as I previously mentioned, while there is some degree of galvanic corrosion between brass and stainless steel, it is mitigated by using teflon tape.
finally found out the right term for the stainless steel fittings "melt" together problem, it is call "galling", I've been using the wrong term the whole time.

here is from wiki:

"Galling is adhesive wear. Galling is caused by macroscopic transfer of material between metallic surfaces, during transverse motion (sliding). Galling occurs frequently whenever metal surfaces are in contact, sliding against each other, especially with poor lubrication."

stainless steel and aluminum are more prompt to galling than brass.

galvanic action is chemical reaction between different metal and it is a different concept, Anthony, sorry about the mistake that I made and kept using the wrong term the whole time, I will use the right word and to get the mistake fix.

Last edited by Bettatail; 04-16-2013 at 07:54 AM.. Reason: correction
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:43 AM   #107
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Hey josh, when you getting your adapter?
Last Friday.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:26 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post

did you test the regulator alone to make sure it is no leak?
in my leak test instruction, you can identify where the leak from, it is either the regulator or the solenoid at this point, but need to follow the rest of the testing steps to be sure which one.

BTW, apparently you checked the the old instruction on Barrreport, it is kind of old, there are darkblade and oldpunks DIY instructions, cover more and more details on how to put together parts almost hand over hand.
The old regulator thread in Barrreport, the people who contributed to that thread went vertically on specific parts(Victor, Burkert 6011, and ideal needle valve) and dug really deep, but failed to expend their sight horizontally.
They missed a lot.
I haven't tested it alone yet. When I went to retest the second stage after tightening everything, I found that air was passing through the solenoid even though it was unplugged. Then when I when I took the solenoid off to mess with it, I found water in the solenoid and needle valve. I haven't corrected one problem yet because I keep finding new ones. Ha! I should have time to mess with it tonight. I hope to find a plug at the depot and test the isolated reg. I will also try to clear the solenoid per Darkblade's instructions, and I'll install a second check valve closer to the tank.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:28 PM   #109
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Last Friday.
Hmm.... I'm guessing you know what I'm about to ask? What the weather like in Cali? Is it hot or warm?
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:49 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
finally found out the right term for the stainless steel fittings "melt" together problem, it is call "galling", I've been using the wrong term the whole time.

galvanic action is chemical reaction between different metal and it is a different concept, Anthony, sorry about the mistake that I made and kept using the wrong term the whole time, I will use the right word and to get the mistake fix.
No need to apologize, it's good that we can sort out the differences and figure out what happens.

You're right that stainless steel and aluminum (essentially any metal that forms a passive oxide layer on the surface) will be more prone to galling than metals that do not (like brass).

And of course, teflon tape then becomes important as acting as a type of insulation against metal to metal contact to slow down/mitigate galling.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:47 PM   #111
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SMC Heat issue fixed.

I'm not sure about you guys but the unregulated 24VDC 200mA transformer (bulky, heavy) made the solenoid heat up, I could barely touch the thing. Yes I know, solenoids do get hot, especially continuous use ones. SMC said it was fine, and yeah I agree it is fine, but *snap fingers NAW NAW NAW

Let try out the regulated *switch mode one shall we?

24VDC 1000mA Regulated switchmode, whatever you want to call it. If it's light weight, it's regulated. Not the heavy bulky class 2 transformer "bad adapter in disguise".



Found at a local store, you can find it online for about 4 bucks.

Crimp connection for disconnect, got a million of these for a dollar.



Test time.


Both hooked up at the same time. Did the most scientific heat test known to man, I touch the things. According to my fingers, the results were pretty good. The bulky unregulated adapter was hot, the light weight switch-mode adapter was warm at most. I can accept warm, that is acceptable. So if you're like one and like touching metal things, just do yourself a favour and buy the cheap 4 dollar adapter.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:40 AM   #112
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You have to remember while the 200 mA adapter will work (you mentioned that the solenoid runs on under 200 mA current), it will be "near capacity" so it may run hotter as well.

The 1000 mA adapter will not be "at capacity" and thus may run a bit cooler as well.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:51 AM   #113
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I was talking about the solenoid, not the adapters. Course the 200mA will run a bit warm, but the point is, the regulated adapters are far better than the unregulated one. Even unregulated ones that are as close as possible to the load requirement.

The only time you will be concern about the adapter's heat is when you have a load that is higher than the adapter max. But we're talking solenoids, specifically the SS SMC which is hot with a unregulated adapter so closely rated for it's load.



Fish forum guys, Fish forum....
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:24 PM   #114
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I had a successful night last night. There was something in the solenoid, and I was able to blow it out. I didn't have time to get a plug, so I just retested the second stage with the solenoid attached. It held consistent pressure overnight. I will put in the second check valve, reassemble the rest of the parts, and I am hopeful that I will have co2 flowing tonight. Thanks again, and probably not for the last time.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:46 PM   #115
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Is there a limit to the length of tubing used? I'm getting ready to expand out a project and where I have things setup now the tubing is approx going to be 12' away from the source
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:30 PM   #116
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Check out this system! It's the best cO2 system you can get for the money. Nottttttttttt
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...fm?pcatid=9933
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:01 AM   #117
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Is there a limit to the length of tubing used? I'm getting ready to expand out a project and where I have things setup now the tubing is approx going to be 12' away from the source
You should be OK with that length. I would not recommend anything more than (say) 15 feet or so, as you might start running into consistency issues.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:56 AM   #118
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I'm just trying to figure out a way to share my 20LB co2 with my 55 and about 6 other tanks in the same room I know there's manifolds and that's what I was planning on using but I just wanted to make sure it was feasible
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:42 AM   #119
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Had a chipset heat sink laying around, I took off the fan and Voilą!









Those screws for the bracket actually came in handy. The stainless steel outer body really does a great job at transferring the heat, it works even better with active cooling. And no, the heat is not that bad, it was never that bad to begin with. I just wanted to try crazy new ideas out.

Now I just need some really bad techno music and I'm set!
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:19 PM   #120
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plus it looks pretty awesome
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