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Old 04-13-2013, 03:12 PM   #586
AlanLe
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Do ou need to use some sort of glue to glue the pipe inside the canister?
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:19 PM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDelPaPa View Post
Hey guys. I've been following this thread for a while now. Seems to me people are having the same problems with the 20" units that they're having with the smaller more manageable 10" units. And that is noise and micro bubbles escaping the filter housing. So here is my solution, and a very simple one in that. It requires no filter sponge at the bottom of the reactor which WILL clog and WILL eventually require maintenance. Control your flow rate through the reactor with a built in bypass line using a simple two little fishes ball valve that connects from your pump outlet, to the outflow line of the co2 reactor. Fire up the system and let come up to operating equilibrium. If you have micro bubbles exiting the reactor, simply crack your bypass valve until the micro bubble discharge stops. Problem solved. No need for a huge bulky 20" unit with internal sponges and other BS, less noise, and your pump is allowed to run at full capacity. Good luck.
Can you post some pictures?
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:35 PM   #588
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If you like I can post exactly what I used to build mine. I get 0 micro bubbles. dead silent as long as oxygen does not enter my canister filter and then into the reactor. otherwise too much o2 buildup and a bit of trickling since O2 does not dissolve very easily in water.

Everything can be purchased from Home Depot.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:07 AM   #589
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I also put a ball valve on my return to cut down on noise and micro bubbles. It only had to be dialed down a little bit and it took care of everything.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:29 AM   #590
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Default Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor

Here's mine! Where do you put the ball valve?


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Old 05-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #591
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I am in the process of building my reactor and have a few questions.

Is it best to avoid using 90's? I have 2 90's on each side of my reactor, I could remove one of them, or does it not matter?

Should I buy a reducing tee rather than using the hole that on top of the reactor for my CO2?? Would that be safer?

Do I still need to use my bubble counter since I will be able to see bubbles going into reactor?

Anyone know how to find bracket for 3G-STANDARD-CLEAR-34-PR10 Pentek Whole House Standard 10 inch Filter Housing? Mine did not come with one, or some other way to make a bracket? Not sure what to connect it to the filter with, but I would like to get it off the bottom of my stand.

Thanks so much.

Last edited by planted-tank; 05-16-2013 at 11:53 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:02 PM   #592
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A question on integrating a CO2 reactor with a sump...could you in theory do the following:
  1. Pump sits in return area
  2. Reactor intakes from this pump
  3. Reactor is physically located inside the sump, in the return area
  4. Reactor processes CO2 as designed
  5. Reactor outputs back into the return area
  6. Sump return pumps send CO2-injected water back via return lines

Am I missing something...or would that work, assuming the sump is sealed...?
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:58 AM   #593
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To answer my own question, seems like others have done this, no indication of issues/success.

I'm guessing that as long as the output from the reactor is not bubbly (the whole point), then the return pumps won't be affected.

Found these threads:
And finally this quote from plantbrain:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...NW-combination

Quote:
The cerges style water filter modifications work well and you can get large water filters with clear housing with 25mm PVC in/out. I would place these in the sump and use a pair of them.
They would be fed by 2 large Needle wheel powerheads, eg, maybe 2000-3000 liter hour each.
The reactors will catch the mist and larger bubbles and help them to dissolve better.

This is important because on larger tanks, the clarity is a huge issue.

They make a common clear water filter housing like this: http://www.uswatersystems.com/shop/p...-Housing-.html

Gerry, this is for you too.

You need to add a PCV tube going about 18 inches down the middle to help direct the water from inlets/outlets.

Typically there is a cartridge filter in these units, but if you use them simply as place to increase the dwell time for CO2, then you just need a PVC tube attached and glued to the middle return inside the housing.
Also, these size filters are great for water changes and to remove Chlorine etc from house tap water.
Just use high grade carbon blocks and replace every 3-4 months.

You do not need quite that much flow from the CO2 system, since the outflow from that will be fed back into the suction side of the return pump, which will do the mixing for the CO2 in the aquarium.
The rest of that thread I'll continue reading from...looks like it'll have the answer.
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:07 PM   #594
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Wow this looks like it'll be the best co2 diffuser. Saweeeeeeeeeeeet
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:35 PM   #595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sketch804 View Post
Ya I did use that one, and I believe that I used 3/4" coupling. Even the filters for this use that size so you should be fine. Ya I figured out the same last minute when I was making mine.


Well, I finally made one today too. In less than an hour. Instead, I use a nylon adapter with a barbed end 3/4 to 3/4 fitting. Added some Teflon tape. Tightened them with a pipe wrench. Drill out the red button on top in order to pull it out. Slide the CO2 tubing through it and stopped at the mid section. Cable tied it to the center column to make it to stay in pace. I used a 1" dia hosing. I had to warm the hosing a bit to fit to the cap of the unit. It has been running for 45m so far and I am still hearing some water splashing inside the canister.

I was using the Ista Max reactor, the large one. I am getting some ridiculous amount of micro bubbles. Yeah, the 7up look and the bubbles are sticking to the side of the tank.
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:20 AM   #596
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Here is a shot of my setup. I really don't understand why others are so complicated looking. So, I turned the unit upside down to get the air out. And judging from the amount of my water level before and after turning it up side down, the unit was half filled with air before. Even then, the bubbles were very few. Now, the unit has been running for 45m with CO2 on. Just testing it right now. I am not seeing any bubbles at all. I would do some ph test for each hour until 11pm. Is 9:17 in NYC. Just get an idea how much CO2 this unit can dissolve per hour. BTW, I am not running some tiny, tiny CO2 setting. I am injecting above 45ppm of CO2 level.




Update: I let the unit to run with the CO2 on for 1 hour and 30 minutes. The ph dropped from 6.6 to 6.4. That's about 35ppm of CO2 with a 3dkh. I see few, very few bubbles. Not even mist. I am powering the reactor with the Rena API XP M filter with 300 gph flow rate. I can post a picture of the tank tomorrow.
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Last edited by tetra73; 09-15-2013 at 02:11 AM.. Reason: update
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:23 PM   #597
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This is my last update unless something is going really wrong with my reactor. After 3 hours with the CO2 running and the light is fully on only 3 hours later, my CO2 level is at 35ppm+, ph at 6.3, with 3dkh. Micro bubbles are barely visible coming out from the outlet. They are hard to tell mixing in with the pearling bubbles getting blown around by the water current.
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Last edited by tetra73; 09-15-2013 at 01:53 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:48 PM   #598
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I wonder if anyone has tried this...adding a 1" dia PVC coupler to the end of the center column (1" PVC pipe). And to drill holes on the coupler. The length of the entire center column should have the coupler lightly resting on the bottom of the filter hosing. My GE hosing has a ridge sticking up at the bottom. The initial length of my center column is much shortened. I had to heat up the coupler to spread out the dia a bit in order to "cover" this ridge at the bottom. Effectively, I have extended my center column to an additional 1" longer. Micro bubbles are reduced somewhat from before. Right now, at a distance, the tank water looks very pleasing. There are micro bubbles but is hard to tell if they are from the pearling bubbles. I suppose you can even us a small size drill bit to drill the holes. That may reduce your flow rate somewhat. I was using 1/4" drill bit.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:50 AM   #599
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http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165975&highlight=ext5000
Quote:
Originally Posted by tetra73 View Post
I wonder if anyone has tried this...adding a 1" dia PVC coupler to the end of the center column (1" PVC pipe). And to drill holes on the coupler. The length of the entire center column should have the coupler lightly resting on the bottom of the filter hosing. My GE hosing has a ridge sticking up at the bottom. The initial length of my center column is much shortened. I had to heat up the coupler to spread out the dia a bit in order to "cover" this ridge at the bottom. Effectively, I have extended my center column to an additional 1" longer. Micro bubbles are reduced somewhat from before. Right now, at a distance, the tank water looks very pleasing. There are micro bubbles but is hard to tell if they are from the pearling bubbles. I suppose you can even us a small size drill bit to drill the holes. That may reduce your flow rate somewhat. I was using 1/4" drill bit.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:22 PM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inkslinger View Post
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165975&highlight=ext5000

Thanks BTW, did anyone manage to reduce even more micro bubbles by REDUCING your CO2 injection rate? While still be able to maintain your CO2 level? By mid day, I am still getting some micro bubbles, more than I would like. I then realized that, with the CO2 off and turning my unit upside down, I saw stream of bubbles blowing out. Obviously, my CO2 injection was more than what my flow rate can dissolve. With 40% less CO2 being injected, I could barely hear the water splashing inside the unit. I am going to leave the current setting as it is for tomorrow to see if I could achieve the same CO2 level with even less CO2 being injected. I guess, in theory, once the CO2 is being build up too much and beginning to collect at the top of the unit, you can not increase your CO2 level any further.
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