LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:21 AM   #1
JasterMake
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LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood


Hi everyone. I joined because I'm having a little problem. But before I go there I thought I would share a little something I put together.

My Marineland eclipse ballast finally gave out after 10+ years. I grew many plants and went through ups and downs. Anyway I took this as an opportunity to upgrade to leds. After two weeks without lights and another week with only 500mA i finally was up and running. After some fast and furious growth I seem to have hit a deficiency or something. But now some pics.
These are 3 - 10w leds 6500 eBay specials.
I'm running at 800mA right now and don't know if I should turn them up or down.











Yes the tips are completely white. 😫

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Old 03-21-2013, 05:17 AM   #2
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It is difficult to believe that you could possibly have too little light. It is almost certain that you have way too much light to hope to avoid big algae problems. So, I would definitely dial back the LED current. If you buy a cheap luxmeter, then hold the light over the meter sensor at the same distance it is from the substrate, you should read no more than 3000 lux. (About 40 PAR units.)
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:30 PM   #3
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Default LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood

Thanks for the reply. You are correct the algae is coming on strong but the otos are defending the home front. Would to much light cause MAYACA FLUVIATILIS
to melt. Or would that be the algae causing that?
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:21 AM   #4
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With high light the plants grow very fast, and will soon run out of nutrients unless you are dosing a complete menu of them - NPK, trace elements, and, of course, carbon dioxide. When they run out of nutrients they can certainly stunt badly and/or die.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:11 AM   #5
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Default LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood

I have been having trouble keeping phosphate up as it seems to disappear as soon as i add it. and I have always had trouble keeping CO2 in this tank with the whole marineland bio wheel system. I think I might take it out. I added enough potassium phosphate and flourish to make me want to puke. But it had to be done. Fe was at 0.1 and PO4 at 2.1. I'll be dialing back the lights as soon get a chance. I cut the time down 9 hours to 6 hours.

Currently PO4=5, NO3=40, SO4=90, Ca=30, Mg=2.3, Fe=0.4, all in ppm. and kH=soft. I don't have a kH test. But I always aim for 4 with my water change water using Baking soda. I have other parameters as well if you think they may help.

Algae is holding steady and not exploding and I can not make the drop checker turn yellow or make my fish gasp no matter how hard I try. Sad but true. Fish actually look very happy.

Things are looking better. White tips have turned light green and a large leaf is springing forth but apons are still putting out red leafs instead of green.




Do you see anything wrong with these parameters? I appreciate your help.

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:30 AM   #6
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Default LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood

Thanks Hoppy for the advice. I cut back to 4 hours and added better co2 diffusion. This helped with algae and growth and color.

I recently had the time and reduced the led current to <500 mA. I forgot to measure before i put it back together. This is less than half of what they are rated for but I am seeing daily growth on stem plants and apons finally started looking normal and sending up flower stalks. This had not happened during my two weeks with the long intense lighting. I am returning to my ten hour lights on.

I think my fish appreciate it as well.
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:25 AM   #7
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Default LED DIY Replacement for older Eclipse hood

These Chinese LEDs seem to be working well enough.

I have them turned down to 500mA, and even with the fan I am only running 25 watts total. Moneywort is growing well. Banana plant looks awesome I think. Hornwort growing 1+ inches per day. And I even managed to get a tiny piece of Cambamba that came with my hornwort to take root 20" from the LEDs. It's grown about 1/2" in the last week. I enjoy it when I can take a tiny piece of leaf and grow an entire plant. I hope it keeps growing.

I have 2 x 1 gallon bottles diy yeast reactors pumping 2-3 bubbles/sec. And while i am not EI dosing. I am keeping an eye on parameters and making sure i don't run out of anything. Algae is not out of control but the glass requires weekly wiping with magnet cleaner. Spot algae is not hard like it gets sometimes and comes off really easy.

And the other plants in the picture are growing faster than the tetras can eat them.
If you know what that plant is please let me know. I am trying to determine what kind of light I am getting at the surface.

I am going to turn up the power in a few days and I will update in a few weeks.



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Old 04-13-2013, 12:36 AM   #8
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Ok so is miscalculated or something because when I took off the hood to up the current I measured and it was running 690mA not 500 like I said earlier. That makes more sense in hindsight. Anyway I replaced the 2.7ohm resistor with the original 1ohm resistor I had on there. There is a 940mV drop across this resistor so now I'm running at 940mA.

Now lets see if I can keep enough CO2 on there?
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:13 AM   #9
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940mA was to much for me to handle. BBA creeped up and would not go away with spot treatments and a lime green drop checker. Growth was happening but black fuzz on red leaves looks ugly.

I went back to 690mA. And found a way to keep a lime green drop checker.

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Old 06-13-2013, 05:00 PM   #10
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I think your heatsink is copper. I saw many poisioning fish case because of little copper lines on LED stripes. Water evapourate ofcourse, and oxidate to copper. Not fast but slow and strong. And little tiny copper-oxides powders starts to fall on water... And it's certain death to your fishes as you know.

So i recomend use a evapouration glass or better way change your heatsinks to aluminium ones.

I hope it will help. Please think about it.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:33 PM   #11
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Yes it's all copper. it's enclosed with the stock cover. You can kind of see the clear plastic in some of the pics. But I had not actually thought about it poisoning the fish. I guess it would be possible if there was evaporation and then it dripped back into the tank. Luckily I had a cover. I would have probably still used copper even if I did not have a cover.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasterMake View Post
Yes it's all copper. it's enclosed with the stock cover. You can kind of see the clear plastic in some of the pics. But I had not actually thought about it poisoning the fish. I guess it would be possible if there was evaporation and then it dripped back into the tank. Luckily I had a cover. I would have probably still used copper even if I did not have a cover.
Yes i just saw the cover. Probably it will not be any problem. As you say evaporation and dripping back to water is also posinious, but take a look to the link below. Obviously powdery oxidations dropped on water. I just wanted to let you know. Ne need to misunderstanding

http://www.akvaryum.com/Forum/(_dikk...ma_k657933.asp

Forum is all Turkish but you can check the photos, even very thin led stripes copper lines can get oxidate that much... Without cover, your heatsink can be worst.

Happy days and fishes...
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