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Old 04-11-2013, 02:09 PM   #31
iter
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I honestly don't have too much experience with stem plant grouping, but I have to say make sure to use that red plant (Alteranthera sp.?) in picture D.

If I understand your direction, the plant in picture E should be sword plant (Echinodorus sp.). It is hard to scale your aquarium to see its size but from its bright green color it is most likely an Amazon Sword.

Some other things: You will get BBA if the light is too strong and you don't have co2. Another thing is take your time in plant selection (I know its overkill, but I took 4 months on a small 20g).

The night LEDs look really cool btw.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #32
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How much PAR is considered to strong.

From my research/guessing the T5HO lights at 2' from the substrate. The reflector is a Hagen Glo dual T5HO which i believe is a 'fair' reflector. If this is true then it looks like I would get about 25 micromoles per bulb at 2' (a little more on the hills) for a total of 50 micromoles... right in the middle of medium light classification.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #33
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The substrate fairy finally arrived!!!



And i think i have the hardscape how I like it!!! Let me know if you have any suggestions before i start to fill it with water/plant.






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12G Fluval Edge - Celestial pearl Danios, Boraras urophthalmoides & PFR shrimp
5.5G Fluval Chi - Pumpkin shrimplets
10G - CRS/CBS | 10G - Red Rilli's | 10G - Yellow shrimp

Last edited by shift; 04-11-2013 at 07:05 PM.. Reason: more pics!
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:05 PM   #34
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I think that last hardscape looks awesome! I'm excited to see your tank progress!
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:44 PM   #35
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Thank ya!

Do you think I should get 1 more bag of eco-complete to make more defined hills or is it good as is?
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12G Fluval Edge - Celestial pearl Danios, Boraras urophthalmoides & PFR shrimp
5.5G Fluval Chi - Pumpkin shrimplets
10G - CRS/CBS | 10G - Red Rilli's | 10G - Yellow shrimp
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:03 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shift View Post
Do you think I should get 1 more bag of eco-complete to make more defined hills or is it good as is?
It's hard to say...I think it looks good how it is, plus it will look different after its fully planted. Ultimately, its up to you!
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:24 AM   #37
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Default The Osaka Forest

Quote:
Originally Posted by AguaTropical View Post
It's hard to say...I think it looks good how it is, plus it will look different after its fully planted. Ultimately, its up to you!
I agree, the contours look very nice.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:09 AM   #38
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I would go for it the way it is just now, shift - do the planting you want, and then check out how you want it to proceed from there - it's looking just fine for the moment.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:24 AM   #39
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Well the Wood on the right decided to float once it was 80% submerged.. so i had to zap strap it to some granite and slightly modify it.. but its 90% the same.. I will need at least another bag of eco-complete to rebuild my left hand hill!



So once i rebuild my hill...

Which one of these plants grows the tallest (to hide the intake pipe which will be on top of my to be rebuilt hill corner.
1. Amazon sword (i think..)
2. Java Fern (i think...)
3. Hygro Corymbosa (i think....)
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84G - The Osaka Forest
12G Fluval Edge - Celestial pearl Danios, Boraras urophthalmoides & PFR shrimp
5.5G Fluval Chi - Pumpkin shrimplets
10G - CRS/CBS | 10G - Red Rilli's | 10G - Yellow shrimp

Last edited by shift; 04-12-2013 at 04:43 AM.. Reason: pics
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:04 AM   #40
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Default Re: The Osaka Forest

Most likely the sword, but if you've got driftwood in front of what you're trying to hide, I would recommend the java fern. It grows thicker and can be planted more densely for a more covering effect.

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Old 04-12-2013, 01:22 PM   #41
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Java fern might be a bit messy to plant if you don't have any anchors for them such as driftwood or rock. The choice between the sword and the stem plant is up to you (if it was me I would go with the stem because they won't take over everything if you regularly trim them), just make sure whatever you plant won't get its leaves stuck on the intake (the suction from the FX5 should be pretty powerful).
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:40 PM   #42
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Default The Osaka Forest

Some of the plants have weights on them which I could leave on when planing but the substrate is thick enough so it should be safe to plant normally


When my fx5 intake tube shows up I was thinking of popping open the strainer and putting in a chunk of filter foam to tone down the auction abit and make it shrimp safe
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12G Fluval Edge - Celestial pearl Danios, Boraras urophthalmoides & PFR shrimp
5.5G Fluval Chi - Pumpkin shrimplets
10G - CRS/CBS | 10G - Red Rilli's | 10G - Yellow shrimp
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:30 PM   #43
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Oh yeah, here is a PAR chart for Hagen GLO and pretty much everything else:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ight+par+watts
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:38 PM   #44
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Default The Osaka Forest

Thanks for the link.


Ill give you guys a sneak peak


Ill take more high res pics once the water clears
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12G Fluval Edge - Celestial pearl Danios, Boraras urophthalmoides & PFR shrimp
5.5G Fluval Chi - Pumpkin shrimplets
10G - CRS/CBS | 10G - Red Rilli's | 10G - Yellow shrimp
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:12 PM   #45
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It looks good.
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