Setting up a 180G
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:30 PM   #1
PRSRocker3390
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Setting up a 180G


I'm planning on setting up a 180 gallon tank but need some help from you guys. The main issue right now is filtration. I haven't bought the tank yet and I didn't know if I should go drilled or not. I like the extra capacity and ability for hidden equipment with a sump but it has to be quiet. I'll also need to seal the sump to keep co2 in. Also don't want a flood if something should fail. I don't want to do any drilling myself though. I've done a lot of reading online but still need help from you guys. I'm familiar with the beananimal style system but I'm not comfortable with drilling a tank. Any ideas out there for me. I'm okay with buying a pre-made sump if it is needed.

I can always run a bunch of canisters if I can't figure out a sump plan but I'd prefer to keep all that extra equipment out of the tank. After this, I just need to plan figure out the CO2 system and diffusion. Thanks guys!

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Old 04-03-2013, 02:42 PM   #2
sjb1987
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i would go wet/dry...the space for beneficial bacteria is amazing....your tank will be so much healthier.. look into bean animal...flood proof
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:51 PM   #3
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I run a sump on my 180, and its the best way to filter such a huge tank, and use the sump as a secondary grow tank. You wont encounter flooding with the right overflow type. It'll only drain out to the the level of the outflow. So your sump size will have to accommodation its normal volume plus the surge water caused by a return pump failure or power outage.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:07 PM   #4
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Any ideas or pics of your setup and overflow? I've never setup a sump before. Should I get a tank that's predrilled with overflows already built in? Could I make that silent and fail proof? Like I said, I don't want to do any drilling to the tank myself. Any places online that sell nice predrilled 180 gallon tanks?

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Old 04-03-2013, 03:25 PM   #5
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I'm at work so i can grab pics when i get home, but since your in florida you'll most definitely have local salt water forums. They are best to to ask for drilling help, usually all forums have a local guy they pay for the drilling, and always very cheap like $20- as example for here in Boston. Overflow boxes are nice cause they hide the piping, skim the surface, and just use the box space to hide the outflow piping.

How far you drill down, and the size of the pipes will determine GPH flow rate, and sump size for the most part. There's a lot of sump calculators out there of you google sump calculator, and see what they tell you, and compare, but mainly it's all the same result, some taking in more factors then others into the equation.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:28 PM   #6
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Do you know if durso standpipes are quiet and fail proof? Sorry, like I said I know nothing about sumps at all.

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Old 04-03-2013, 03:37 PM   #7
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Fail proof sure, quiet yes. Prob. the only way i'd setup a standpipe design as a regular standpipe system will gurgle for sure.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #8
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So using a pre drilled 180 tank with two corner or back wall overflows would work, I just would have to use a durso standpipe in the overflows? I'm just looking for a quiet setup with minimal splashing to keep CO2 loss down and for it to be flood proof. I'm guessing I can either build a sump from a 40 gallon tank or perhaps buy a premade sump that can be sealed easily.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:08 PM   #9
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I have zero experience for co2 loss prevention.
Pre-made sumps can be pricey for damn sure. Prob cheaper to build your own sump.
My 180 is drilled 3" down from the top in the back, a durso standpipe would be coming from drilled from the bottom.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_sumps.php
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/plumbing_faq.php
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_overflow.php
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_wet_dry.php
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:16 PM   #10
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I recently set up a large tank and the one thing I am finding is that I wish I had a larger return section in my sump (or larger sump) as when the water evaporates this is the section that decreases in water level. I think the consensus across the board for large tanks with sumps is to expect approximately 1 gallon of water loss through evaporation daily. When the water level gets too low the pump starts to pull air into the intake resulting in a tank full of bubbles and the pump making a sucking noise. Topping off the water isn't a big deal but in case you leave for an extended period of time it is a nuisance having to think about making sure the water level is topped off every couple of days.

Also, don't overlook floor support if the tank won't be sitting on concrete. All things considered you will be somewhere around 1 ton of weight on a 6ft x 2ft footprint.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:23 PM   #11
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Do you think a Herbie style drain would be pretty safe and quiet, while minimizing CO2 loss? It looks like that would work with a predrilled reef ready type tank since I don't want to drill the tank myself or get crazy with complex mods.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:26 AM   #12
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Your situation sounds similar to mine. I wanted to setup a 180g tank last summer but delayed it for this summer. I plan to build my whole setup with acrylic though. There are pros and cons to glass vs acrylic in which I won't get into. I will leave that for you. But two pros for me is weight and being customized. Drilling acrylic is the same a wood. There are video series from UaruJoey on Youtube that give very precise instruction for tank builds.

I too will be using the Bean Animal along with a 90g sump with a custom top sealed wet/dry that I also plan to build myself. Or I will just chamber the sump with Kaldness filter media. The wet/dry will allow me to get my hands wet before attempting the display tank build so I am leaning towards that. I plan to use a household water filter as my co2 reactor. I lucked out and got a custom 90g off craigslist that already has a 1 1/4" drilled bottom. I plan to use this as an emergency overflow that will be plumbed to a waste system to lead outside. Had I not had a drilled sump I would use a diy pvc overflow to eliminate drilling. I want my sump at 80-90 percent capacity to increase water volume. If the power goes out, the emergency will kick in for whatever the weir dumps.

Call around to some non chain lfs or glass shops to see if they will drill your tank for you. Your in Florida so I am sure there is someone there that can drill it. Some won't touch it but someone that does them on a regular basis that knows what they are doing would do it for a fee of coarse.
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