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Old 03-29-2013, 03:07 PM   #1
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Phosphates


Started checking the GH and KH today and found a Phosphate kit and did that too. The phosphates are 1.0, maybe a little bit more. Has anyone used Phoszorb? Is there another way to get rid of phosphates? Going to do a water change later today.
The GH is 4 and the KH..well I put one drop in and it was yellow already, so I guess I have to fix that too. I bought a GH booster from someone here and obviously that worked. All the fish seem fine it's the algae that I'd love to have gone. Hopefully once the water is straightened out it will all dissapear
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:23 PM   #2
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Default Controlling Phosphates

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Originally Posted by furnfins View Post
Started checking the GH and KH today and found a Phosphate kit and did that too. The phosphates are 1.0, maybe a little bit more. Has anyone used Phoszorb? Is there another way to get rid of phosphates? Going to do a water change later today.
The GH is 4 and the KH..well I put one drop in and it was yellow already, so I guess I have to fix that too. I bought a GH booster from someone here and obviously that worked. All the fish seem fine it's the algae that I'd love to have gone. Hopefully once the water is straightened out it will all dissapear
Hello furn...

The best way to control phosphates, is to reduce the amount you feed your fish. Flaked fish foods are very high in phosphates. If you overfeed, you'll have a lot of dissolved phosphates in the water and this is a perfect environment for all types of algae.

Large, weekly water changes of at least half the volume of the tank will also help.

B
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:28 PM   #3
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Default Re: Phosphates

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Started checking the GH and KH today and found a Phosphate kit and did that too. The phosphates are 1.0, maybe a little bit more. Has anyone used Phoszorb? Is there another way to get rid of phosphates? Going to do a water change later today.
What's the problem? 1 ppm is my minimum with the preferred range being 1-2 ppm. Often it's actually over 5 ppm with no attributable issues. This is for a planted EI tank with lots of inverts.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:36 PM   #4
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I agree with the above, why do you want to scrub phosphates? If you have algae issues you either have too much light, which in itself isn't a problem unless you have limiting nutrients, CO2, macros or micros.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BBradbury View Post
Hello furn...

The best way to control phosphates, is to reduce the amount you feed your fish. Flaked fish foods are very high in phosphates. If you overfeed, you'll have a lot of dissolved phosphates in the water and this is a perfect environment for all types of algae.

Large, weekly water changes of at least half the volume of the tank will also help.

B
I don't feed flake much, just once a week. I usually feed frozen or freeze dried food, would that do the same thing? I did a good WC last week easy half the tank. Will do that again today. Thanks for the info!
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:03 PM   #6
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What's the problem? 1 ppm is my minimum with the preferred range being 1-2 ppm. Often it's actually over 5 ppm with no attributable issues. This is for a planted EI tank with lots of inverts.
Well I read that there should be 0 phosphates or you'll have an algae problem. There are plants and fish and a few nerites. The tank is 75g's.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:12 PM   #7
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I agree with the above, why do you want to scrub phosphates? If you have algae issues you either have too much light, which in itself isn't a problem unless you have limiting nutrients, CO2, macros or micros.
I don't think it's a light problem, I put them on late afternoon till 11pm, so not too many hours of light. I only use 2 of the 4 cfl's, this fixture could be very high light if I used all 4 cfl's. It's just that I read that phosphates should be 0, it's not often I have the time to do anything but change water. I had a day off so I had time to test water and read a little. Do you have to test for macros and micros? I never had to do this stuff years ago taking care of my tanks and I never had algae in the tanks. I guess I'll have to make some time and learn more about it. I used to add excel after every WC but stopped, maybe I should go back to that. I guess I'll have to experiment.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:25 PM   #8
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I don't think it's a light problem, I put them on late afternoon till 11pm, so not too many hours of light. I only use 2 of the 4 cfl's, this fixture could be very high light if I used all 4 cfl's. It's just that I read that phosphates should be 0, it's not often I have the time to do anything but change water. I had a day off so I had time to test water and read a little. Do you have to test for macros and micros? I never had to do this stuff years ago taking care of my tanks and I never had algae in the tanks. I guess I'll have to make some time and learn more about it. I used to add excel after every WC but stopped, maybe I should go back to that. I guess I'll have to experiment.
How many hours exactly? You shouldn't have more than 8 hours of light if you have a planted tank. Phosphates should never be zero in a planted tank. There should be some phosphates in your tank to feed the plants. You should also test for Nitrogen (Nitrates) and Phosphates. Micros you don't have to test for and Potassium tests aren't necessary in most cases. A system can be free of algae for years but once spores are introduced into the tank via contaminated water or plants, they can take advantage of your tank's parameters and grow out of control if things aren't in balance.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #9
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Well I read that there should be 0 phosphates or you'll have an algae problem.
That may be true for a SW or fish-only FW tank, but plants need phosphate - along with nitrate, potassium, trace minerals, and a carbon source - to out compete algae.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:02 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by furnfins View Post
I don't think it's a light problem, I put them on late afternoon till 11pm, so not too many hours of light. I only use 2 of the 4 cfl's, this fixture could be very high light if I used all 4 cfl's. It's just that I read that phosphates should be 0, it's not often I have the time to do anything but change water. I had a day off so I had time to test water and read a little. Do you have to test for macros and micros? I never had to do this stuff years ago taking care of my tanks and I never had algae in the tanks. I guess I'll have to make some time and learn more about it. I used to add excel after every WC but stopped, maybe I should go back to that. I guess I'll have to experiment.
Even 1 CFL could be too much light. It really depends on how healthy your plants are. Since our plants are on a higher order than algae, they need all the essential macros and micros, the most important of which is CO2. If anything is limiting, the plants cannot flourish and that leads to a bunch of nutrients in the water that aren't being used. The algae then has the perfect environment to pop up with no competition from the plants. Too much phosphate is only a problem when your plants aren't using it. I think your problem isn't the phosphates but rather something else, maybe a nutrient you aren't dosing or a lack of CO2. Most problems come from the latter.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:03 AM   #11
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Phosphorus is a dietary requirement, so please don't starve your fish in an attempt to decrease it. There will (or should!) always be some in what you feed, and even in the best case scenarios, not all of it is absorbed, so there will be phosphorus in fish waste.

If you are looking to grow healthy plants, this is a wonderful thing as fish waste provides nitrogen as well as phosphorus. I basically dose potassium and micronutirents and get away wih it - I have phosphates but only sometimes remember to dose them.

I find that light is quite tricky to get right. Even though I planned for low light using PAR values, I still had too much light.
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:47 AM   #12
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All NYC drinking water is treated with chlorine, fluoride and orthophosphate. My tap water usually have 1-2 ppm of phosphate.

If you have a heavily planted tank, you shouldn't be worrying about it.

You need a balance of CO2, nutrients (nitrate, magnesium, phosphate) and light, so everything is consumed by your plants, instead of algae.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:54 PM   #13
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How many hours exactly? You shouldn't have more than 8 hours of light if you have a planted tank. Phosphates should never be zero in a planted tank. There should be some phosphates in your tank to feed the plants. You should also test for Nitrogen (Nitrates) and Phosphates. Micros you don't have to test for and Potassium tests aren't necessary in most cases. A system can be free of algae for years but once spores are introduced into the tank via contaminated water or plants, they can take advantage of your tank's parameters and grow out of control if things aren't in balance.

I would say 7 hours of light, they go on about 4:30pm and off at 11ish.
I guess you can't always believe what you read, probably just trying to sell their product. Going to check the usual params now before I do the WC. The funny thing is ph,amm,nitrate and nitrites always are perfect. Are you supposed to have nitrates in the tank? Mine are usually 0 or sometimes 5ppm.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by chibikaie View Post
Phosphorus is a dietary requirement, so please don't starve your fish in an attempt to decrease it. There will (or should!) always be some in what you feed, and even in the best case scenarios, not all of it is absorbed, so there will be phosphorus in fish waste.

If you are looking to grow healthy plants, this is a wonderful thing as fish waste provides nitrogen as well as phosphorus. I basically dose potassium and micronutirents and get away wih it - I have phosphates but only sometimes remember to dose them.

I find that light is quite tricky to get right. Even though I planned for low light using PAR values, I still had too much light.
Thanks, I'm not going to do anything about it now. I actually tested the tap water and there is phosphates in it. I feed the fish all kinds of food just to change off for them,lol, like the dogs. Light is tricky and I don't seem to get it. I might decide to sell these lights and get something else eventually. Each cfl is 6700k and 65 watts for a 75g tank. That does sound like alot considering my other tank has a 10,000k 21 watt bulb and only one is working right now. All things are growing nicely in that tank.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by roycny View Post
All NYC drinking water is treated with chlorine, fluoride and orthophosphate. My tap water usually have 1-2 ppm of phosphate.

If you have a heavily planted tank, you shouldn't be worrying about it.

You need a balance of CO2, nutrients (nitrate, magnesium, phosphate) and light, so everything is consumed by your plants, instead of algae.
I don't use CO2 but I think I'll go back to dosing flourish excell. And yes I just mentioned I did test my water too and found phosphates about the same as you. I was just curious because it seems that when I read something and then ask about it the answers are always totally different. I just don't want to totally screw up my tanks,lol. I have to say in 3 years that I got back into the hobby I've never had any major problems, illnesses...shut my mouth!
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