How to build a co2 regulator [56k!]

[oldpunk78]

Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish

Hey Oldpunk, what about the CGA320? Did you have to get an adapter for that too? Or did it look like this:


That a 946/970 series, the AK-47 as I like to call it. I took a look at the pdf on VCR and it was like reading french. I understood some of it, what made me close the pdf was taking a look at the price. Oh forgot to ask, with that thin welding fitting on the 320, is the weight not a concern?

From the regulator, I went:

1/4 vcr to 1/4 npt adapter to regular cga-320 nipple. The do make cga parts with vcr connections but they are expensive.

I personally feel that the vcr tube is strong enough to just hold the reg's weight but perhaps not if you knocked it over. If it did break upon getting knocked over, you'd have the entire force of your cylinder spewing from the break. (Not good)

[AlanLe]

Originally Posted by oldpunk78

Here:



^ See this connection. This is what's covered up by that blue piece in the photo. That's a VCR connection. What makes the seal here is a metal gasket sandwiched between two ends that press into it. It makes a very good seal. The adapters I found weren't any more than other stainless fitting on [Ebay Link Removed] Retail, they are a lot more. The gauges are also not cheap.

By the way how do you distinguish between NPT and VCR ports just by looking at the unit? The OEM's pdf does not clearly state the port.

[FlyingHellFish]

You can tell by the metal welding tube, they have another funny name for it. If it doesn't come with anything, you have to look at the port. If it doesn't look like NPT, you got VCR. You know the VCR gauges alone will cost you the same as another normal NPT style regulator?

So I actually agree with Kevmo, you can get yourself a normal regulator and find parts in Home depot. Starting off with a regulator with VCR tubing is pretty hardcore, not to mention the cost of parts if you ever needed to replace something.

You won't even notice the difference, beside the fact that you will have an amazing beautiful regulator.

[AlanLe]

Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish

You can tell by the metal welding tube, they have another funny name for it. If it doesn't come with anything, you have to look at the port. If it doesn't look like NPT, you got VCR. You know the VCR gauges alone will cost you the same as another normal NPT style regulator?

So I actually agree with Kevmo, you can get yourself a normal regulator and find parts in Home depot. Starting off with a regulator with VCR tubing is pretty hardcore, not to mention the cost of parts if you ever needed to replace something.

You won't even notice the difference, beside the fact that you will have an amazing beautiful regulator.

It's just the matter of getting the right parts. The money is the issue. I have to ask myself is it worth it? I just asked the seller if he can sell 2 for $140. I'll have to pass it if he doesnt agree.

[herns]

Hey Josh,

This post needs your help.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...50&postcount=1

[oldpunk78]

Ya, I saw it. Unfortunately, I don't really keep much post body stuff on hand anymore. :/

[magicmagni]

Originally Posted by Bettatail

15490-1
10-32 UNF inlet, 1/8 NPT outlet.

15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet

The mounted valves in the picture, the manifolds are 15490-2(same as the one that in the picture of Matheson miniature regulator system), I make custom port on the manifold, then add the stainless steel swagelok 1/16 npt to 1/8 npt reducing adapters, so the 15490-2 manifolds are 1/8 npt inlet and both 1/8 npt and 10-32 unf outlets

I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.

[Darkblade48]

Originally Posted by magicmagni

I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.

You have to tap a 1/8" hole.

[kevmo911]

Originally Posted by magicmagni

I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.

Other than drilling and tapping your own port (which gets even more complicated because the mount isn't big enough for a standard size 1/8 female port), your option is to order a 10-32 nipple and 10-32 to 1/8 adapter. But that nipple is tiny, and nobody is gonna recommend hanging anything with any weight on it (and certainly not your Fabco NV-55-18, which is huge). You can get the 10-32 stainless close nipple for extra strength, but, while it's in the Clippard catalog, you can't order it online - you'll have to give your retailer a call. And I still wouldn't trust it with the nv you want to use.

The likely cheapest and easiest option is to get a 10-32 to 1/8" hose barb, attach it to the outlet of the mount, and just run the needle valve inline. Attach 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barbs to both ports on the Fabco.

The mouse is an excellent solenoid. But that mount, with the 10-32 outlet port, severely limits what you can do with the Mouse outside of some modifications.

[magicmagni]

Originally Posted by kevmo911

Other than drilling and tapping your own port (which gets even more complicated because the mount isn't big enough for a standard size 1/8 female port), your option is to order a 10-32 nipple and 10-32 to 1/8 adapter. But that nipple is tiny, and nobody is gonna recommend hanging anything with any weight on it (and certainly not your Fabco NV-55-18, which is huge). You can get the 10-32 stainless close nipple for extra strength, but, while it's in the Clippard catalog, you can't order it online - you'll have to give your retailer a call. And I still wouldn't trust it with the nv you want to use.

The likely cheapest and easiest option is to get a 10-32 to 1/8" hose barb, attach it to the outlet of the mount, and just run the needle valve inline. Attach 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barbs to both ports on the Fabco.

The mouse is an excellent solenoid. But that mount, with the 10-32 outlet port, severely limits what you can do with the Mouse outside of some modifications.

I have used that solenoid before and it rock solid. I do have that nipple you refer to but I agree its not that strong and prone to leaking. The good news is that the shorter stainless one you also refer to is now available on their site in a bag of five. Since I have the bushing already I was thinking to use the ss nipple to tighten the bushing against the manifold. Perhaps its a good idea to use red loctite on that connection? From that I have a female npt ss elbow and then the fabco valve with barb. No bubble counter.

[herns]

Originally Posted by oldpunk78

I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port.

Hey Josh,

Are Airproducts regulators mostly for general use? I havent seen an AP regulators for use on welding or argon.

[oldpunk78]

Originally Posted by herns

Hey Josh,

Are Airproducts regulators mostly for general use? I havent seen an AP regulators for use on welding or argon.

I'm not sure. There are a number that retail pretty cheaply. (I guess that's relative...) I would imagine they have a complete line.

Check this out:





A concoa re-branded by linde and then re-branded again by airgas. That doesn't seem cost effective. :/

[kevmo911]

Maybe we're all competing with a team of AirGas personnel, searching for good buys on the 'bay. The difference is they have custom stickers to slap on

[FlyingHellFish]

Deeper, we need to go deeper. Linde is dreaming that it's a Airgas but it's really a Conoca. We just scratched the surface here, keep peeling the layers Josh, maybe it's a Victor.

[Bettatail]

Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish

Deeper, we need to go deeper. Linde is dreaming that it's a Airgas but it's really a Conoca. We just scratched the surface here, keep peeling the layers Josh, maybe it's a Victor.

keep peeling you will end up seeing the mark of made in China

it is a joke, but a lot of items, parts are actually manufacture in China, just don't have the mark of " Make in China".
such parts are strictly US standard quality control, and only for sale in the US, means even if it is made in China, a customer from China have to buy from the US.
like iphone.