DIY stand for a multi-tank setup (56k)

[Sluggo]

I am not an engineer, but even if the screws under the top tank held, I would be worried about the plywood wanting to bow outward at the front corners. I do like the concept, though.

[GraphicGr8s]

One other thing. Your plywood is cut wrong. The grain should run top to bottom not front to back. And it's not just cosmetic. Although plywood has multiple plys it is stronger in one direction. That direction happens to be with the grain, just like solid wood. As has been said: Glue is your best friend.

BTW if you had used 3/4" plywood and proper joinery the 1 x 4s would not have been need for anything except trim and you wouldn't have needed a single screw.

You're putting a 29 in front. And a sump inside. How will you access the sump?

[In.a.Box]

Y not just go with 2x4 all the way?

[lochaber]

Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s

One other thing. Your plywood is cut wrong. The grain should run top to bottom not front to back. And it's not just cosmetic. Although plywood has multiple plys it is stronger in one direction. That direction happens to be with the grain, just like solid wood. As has been said: Glue is your best friend.

BTW if you had used 3/4" plywood and proper joinery the 1 x 4s would not have been need for anything except trim and you wouldn't have needed a single screw.

You're putting a 29 in front. And a sump inside. How will you access the sump?

If there is a complete frame of the 1x4s on the inside, the plywood will effectively just be cosmetic, with some reinforcement against racking. But, yeah, you can do a stand with just plywood, and have a quite strong one at that. I don't have the precision to cut stuff that accurately my self, but for those who do, they can build a simpler stand with fewer materials, and have it come out quite strong and nice looking.

[GraphicGr8s]

Originally Posted by lochaber

If there is a complete frame of the 1x4s on the inside, the plywood will effectively just be cosmetic, with some reinforcement against racking. But, yeah, you can do a stand with just plywood, and have a quite strong one at that. I don't have the precision to cut stuff that accurately my self, but for those who do, they can build a simpler stand with fewer materials, and have it come out quite strong and nice looking.

Believe me I know. Sometimes you just don't have the money for 3/4" oak but with 1x4s and 1/4 you can make a great stand.

Your materials with a 1x4 skeleton behind 1/2" ply is really more not less material.

And I do remember before my skills were where they are now building skeleton cabinets. In fact last year I took apart a solid wood cabinet I built 27 years ago. (solid wood not skeleton) I couldn't believe the sloppiness of the joints and the poor design. Now I build high end stuff as a hobby. If I were to take it apart in another 27 years I know the joints will be right. I won't look back and get that letdown feeling. Every time I visit my mother's house and look at the cabinet I built under the sink I about want to cry. It is terrible. But I built it with wood I had at the skill level I was at. Man I hate that sink cabinet.

The main thing I see with his plywood really is the grain direction.

[p.lewis]

Originally Posted by lochaber

If there is a complete frame of the 1x4s on the inside, the plywood will effectively just be cosmetic, with some reinforcement against racking.

Yup, I'm not worried about the plywood because it is only acting as a shear panel. It's equivalent to diagonal bracing, which mostly only adds strength against racking. I loved solid mechanics and structures in college; took some additional classes for my MS too. (hint... I know what I'm doing, so don't worry, folks)

Not shown in the original pics are the last couple jack studs that vertically support the frames under the tanks. Also, I'm gusseting (plywood triangles in the corners) the back of the stand for strength against racking in that plane. This is the only weakness that is preventing me from setting it up and getting some water flowing.

I don't have access to the tools to do better jointery right now. I just wanted to make something that was good enough and to show how most folks can get by with a few simple tools. Well... how to make something a little nicer looking than the utilitarian concrete block and framing lumber stand. (I'm not hating)

[GraphicGr8s]

Originally Posted by p.lewis

(hint... I know what I'm doing, so don't worry, folks)

Now I am worried.




Only thing that bothered me was the grain direction in all honesty. But I won't see it from my house.

[p.lewis]

Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s

One other thing. Your plywood is cut wrong. The grain should run top to bottom not front to back. And it's not just cosmetic. Although plywood has multiple plys it is stronger in one direction. That direction happens to be with the grain, just like solid wood.

You're right about the strength of plywood depending on the orientation. In industrial plywood, each ply is about the same thickness. If and only if there are an odd number of plys, the outside face plys define the strongest orientation, which is usually in the sheet's long dimension. I'm in 100% agreement with you on this.

Then I go look at my 1/2" veneer plywood and notice two things. First, the veneer thickness is ~1/32" to 1/64" thick (Google agrees) and the three plys inside are ~1/6" thick each. Second, the grain of the outermost inside plys is perpendicular to the veneer grain. It is likely that these plys contribute more to the composite strength than the veneer. In that case, the strong direction is likely to be perpendicular to the orientation of the veneer. If so, this is dumb luck on my part because I payed zero attention to grain.

This is neat stuff. Unfortunately, the text Indychus linked earlier doesn't get into the plys or the distinction between industrial plywood and hardwood veneer. I'm sure somebody has written something. I'm not sure anybody else on this forum cares about learning more.

However, for conventional furniture making, you're right that my veneer grain is in the wrong direction. Yes, it is unattractive. Call me silly, but I don't care. This is not my nice stand, just my cabin fever project. My grandchildren are definitely not inheriting it. This is proof of concept for me. I hope this attitude doesn't offend you too much.

I need to get some water in this baby and turn everybody's attention away from my shoddy carpentry. Maybe I should take pictures of the first cabinet I built to convince you I'm not a hack. haha!

[GraphicGr8s]

Originally Posted by p.lewis

You're right about the strength of plywood depending on the orientation. In industrial plywood, each ply is about the same thickness. If and only if there are an odd number of plys, the outside face plys define the strongest orientation, which is usually in the sheet's long dimension. I'm in 100% agreement with you on this.

Then I go look at my 1/2" veneer plywood and notice two things. First, the veneer thickness is ~1/32" to 1/64" thick (Google agrees) and the three plys inside are ~1/6" thick each. Second, the grain of the outermost inside plys is perpendicular to the veneer grain. It is likely that these plys contribute more to the composite strength than the veneer. In that case, the strong direction is likely to be perpendicular to the orientation of the veneer. If so, this is dumb luck on my part because I payed zero attention to grain.

This is neat stuff. Unfortunately, the text Indychus linked earlier doesn't get into the plys or the distinction between industrial plywood and hardwood veneer. I'm sure somebody has written something. I'm not sure anybody else on this forum cares about learning more.

However, for conventional furniture making, you're right that my veneer grain is in the wrong direction. Yes, it is unattractive. Call me silly, but I don't care. This is not my nice stand, just my cabin fever project. My grandchildren are definitely not inheriting it. This is proof of concept for me. I hope this attitude doesn't offend you too much.

I need to get some water in this baby and turn everybody's attention away from my shoddy carpentry. Maybe I should take pictures of the first cabinet I built to convince you I'm not a hack. haha!

Brother it doesn't offend me one bit. It just goes against the natural forces of nature and the earth and could cause a catastrophic collapse of something or other and it will be entirely your fault. Just didn't want that on your conscience.
In my "epic" project which is almost, finally over I have a cabinet that's 54" wide. Plywood is 48" Grain has to, absolutely must, run top to bottom. It hurt to have that much waste but I hopefully will find another project to use it up. There are some things that I am OCD about. Doing it right is one of them

[scapegoat]

Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s

Brother it doesn't offend me one bit. It just goes against the natural forces of nature and the earth and could cause a catastrophic collapse of something or other and it will be entirely your fault. Just didn't want that on your conscience.

[GraphicGr8s]

Originally Posted by p.lewis

I loved solid mechanics and structures in college; took some additional classes for my MS too.

I remember way back taking a strength and materials class which I guess was the predecessor to your solid mechanics course. That was a great class. Got to destroy a bunch of things all in the name of science.

[p.lewis]

I updated the original post with a fresh picture showing all the vertical members and diagonal bracing I added in the top back corners for some vastly improved racking strength.