Drake's 12g long!!!!!!
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:19 AM   #1
DrakeScree
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Default Drake's 12g long!!!!!!

I had a lot of difficulty figuring out what I needed for this tank. If it wasn’t for the members of this forum I would have given up.
Because I had so much difficulty I wanted to make this journal accessible to people who are new to the hobby, or just new to this tank. Thus, I am including where I found the item, the price it was purchased it, and the reason I chose that item over another.

Equipment
Tank: Mr. Aqua 12g long
From: Marinedepot.com Cost: $80
Reason: I like this tank because I want to keep shrimp. My previous tank was a Fluval Edge 12g, and the shrimp, only used about 1/4th of the tank. They were lost in plants and could not be seen, and most of the tank went unused.

Lighting: Marineland Double Bright LED 36-48 in
From: Aquatraders.com Cost: $60
Reason: This light is half the price of a Finnex. I do not know (yet) if it is better or worse, but on paper it is just as good. I was trying to cut the cost where it could be cut, and here is a place where it could be cut.
If you want to read the discussion that made me choose this light, please read this


Light Stand: Zoo Med reptile lamp stand, large x2
From: Amazon.com Cost: $24 ea ($48)
Reason: There is a light by Beamswork that is $10 less which I could have placed on top of the tank, but it is only a 'single bright' and could only provide 'low lighting'. However, these stands allow me to use a brighter light, and give me the ability to adjust the light between low, medium, and high. The stands also add to the aesthetics by allowing you to look in through the top unobstructed. Lastly, and oddly, the room that this tank will be in is kind of dark (low energy lights in the ceiling), so this fixture will also be providing light to the room.
I could have gone DIY on this, but I figured that for the $20 I would save in making it myself it was not worth the time of shopping for the items or putting it together.
** If you are going to place the feet of these stands under the tank, the stands are too tall and will the minimum distance from tank to light will be 18 inches. However, the stand's feet are perfect for the width of the tank. If the smaller sized stands have smaller feet, I would use those instead. However, this stand is very simple and can be easily cut to fit your requirements. **

Filter: Eheim 2213
From: Amazon.com Cost: $75 (used)
Reason: This was a hard choice. It is an area where money could have been saved (~$40), but it would have performed poorly and looked bad in the tank. The length of this tank makes normal filtration unusable. While I was considering using a sponge filter in each corner and an air stone in the center, I did not want the sound of constant bubbles, nor did I think this would look good. An additional problem would be dispersing the water column throughout the tank. There would be areas of non-moving water, and o2, heat, and other things would not disperse throughout the tank evenly, leaving uninhabitable areas of this very long tank.
To read the discussion on this topic, please read this
However, while not as good as a canister w/spray bar, it is possible to use two hang on filters on either side of the tank. I have a suspicion that if you place them both on the sides of the tank, you can use them as a light stand for a low light fixture.

Spray Bar: DIY made from Lee’s Rigid Tubing
From: PetMountain.com Cost: $10
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Reason: Necessary to evenly disperse the water column throughout the tank.
Instructions: An Eheim 2213 uses 1/2'' tubing and also comes with a small 6'' spray bar and suction cups with 1/2'' clips. You can use any plastic 1/2'' tube to make this, and I recommend 36'' rigid tubing.
1) Cut the tube to the desired length. Mine is 33''.
2) Draw a straight line across the tube, marking every 1/2''. Use something that can easily be wiped off.
3) Find a drill bit that fits perfectly into the spray bar that the filter came with. If you do not have a drill, a nail or eyeglasses screwdriver can be used by heating it up on the stove and pushing it through.
4) Drill a hole at the intersection of every 1/2'' mark.
5) Find something to shove in one end to seal it. I used the cap to a highlighter (for now).
6) Connect the rubber filter tubing to the spray bar. It will slide on and be nearly impossible to pull off. Because of this, you need to be careful of the angle that you slide it on at. I like the angle to be about 30 degrees, facing up, because of how the suction cups hold the spray bar a little below the waters surface.
7) Put the suction cups that came with the filter on the spray bar and your done!


Heater: Hydor ETH 200 in-line external 200w
From: Amazon.com Cost: $58
Reason: This is one area of the tank that I splurged on. I could have used a $20 in-tank heater. However, for the extra $40 I would rather keep the tank looking clean and neat on the inside. With the canister filter, all that will be in this tank are the intake and outtake hoses.
If you are keeping shrimp and the room that your tank will be in is always warm, you don't need a heater.

Substrate: Eco-Complete, 20lbs
From: LFS Cost: $30
10lbs of Fluorite from my old established tank Cost: free and seeded with MTS!!
Reason: This is the only brand my LFS sold. I'm not going to pay for shipping on a more preferable bag of rocks. As to the old substrate, it was already established and helped to prevent my tank from cycling.
Here are two good threads on substrate and shrimp: one and two

Plants
Flame moss wall (currently growing enough moss to make a wall)
Dwarf Chain Swords (bought a 2x2 and growing it out.)
Whatever unidentified plants are left from the old tank.

Inhabitants
Red Cherry Shrimp
Painted Fire Reds (please breed with the RCS!!)
Orange Eyed Blue Tigers
Malaysian Trumpet Snails
Assassin Snails (adding after a few months once MTS population increases.
Otocinclus
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Last edited by DrakeScree; 03-14-2013 at 04:16 AM.. Reason: Edit 2
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