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Old 02-11-2013, 10:05 PM   #136
hiyabrad
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Hi Hoppy.

I am new here, this being my first post! I have been back in the hobby about 1 year now. Bought a 26G bowfront tank for my 4 year old daughter to enjoy. We love it some much I just bought a 75 T and will start assembling the pieces to get that up and running.

In our 26, I have a Corallife 24" and while I have never had a planted tank before, I think thing are going well for the most part with the hartier plants. I am not using C02, just Flourish once per day. I have a 10,000K and a Colormax bulb in this unit.

Now on the 75T, I want to make sure I have the right fixture/bulbs to the plants and fish.

Based on your amazing research and chart, I was thinking about going with one two bulb 48" (or do I need one 4 bulb fixture?)
http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticLi...FIT54U-vi.html

and again, no C02.

Can you please give me your opinion if that set up will work well with the more common plants and fish or do I need more more than one two bulb unit or a different lighting system all together.

Could you also give some feedback on the chart in post #9 of this thread?

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=241970



Thank you in advance for your time and assistance.

Brad

Last edited by hiyabrad; 02-12-2013 at 09:40 PM.. Reason: addition
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #137
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You should get medium light, around 50-60 micromols of PAR with the two bulb light, but it is unlikely to cover the whole tank with uniform light - the 18 inch front to back width is a lot for one T5 light to cover. You also will have too much light to do without CO2 without having lots of algae problems. You could raise the 2 bulb light to about 10-12 inches above the top of the tank, which should reduce the light down to about 40 micromols of PAR, which might be low enough to avoid big algae problems if you also use Excel. That would also let the single light fixture light up the whole tank pretty uniformly.

The chart you referred to is obsolete now. When it was made I didn't have a lot of data from many different manufacturers T5 lights, and there weren't as many inexpensive ones available. The charts in this thread supersede that old chart.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:53 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
You should get medium light, around 50-60 micromols of PAR with the two bulb light, but it is unlikely to cover the whole tank with uniform light - the 18 inch front to back width is a lot for one T5 light to cover. You also will have too much light to do without CO2 without having lots of algae problems. You could raise the 2 bulb light to about 10-12 inches above the top of the tank, which should reduce the light down to about 40 micromols of PAR, which might be low enough to avoid big algae problems if you also use Excel. That would also let the single light fixture light up the whole tank pretty uniformly.

The chart you referred to is obsolete now. When it was made I didn't have a lot of data from many different manufacturers T5 lights, and there weren't as many inexpensive ones available. The charts in this thread supersede that old chart.
Thanks Hoppy. To clairfy, the fixture I linked to is a two bulb fixture, not a single T5HO. I will not be able to get it 10-12 inches above the tank so maybe I can use screen to lower the micromols of PAR? Should I buy a 4 bulb fixture so I get more uniform light? I guess I can use C02 but I do not have experience with it. Is there a set up you recommend?

Is there a preferred lighting fixture you would recommend as well?

Thank you, it is greatly apprecaited.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:39 AM   #139
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You could use a pair of FishNeedIt or Coralife 2 bulb T5HO lights, with one near the back and one near the front of the tank. That would give pretty uniform light, and still be low light so you wouldn't need to use CO2. A single light fixture, even with 4 bulbs, will not cover the whole 18 inches of front to back width uniformly unless it is raised several inches above the top of the tank. Adding window screen to reduce the intensity will work, but you would still lack uniform light that way. The reason for using the Coralife or FishNeedIt lights is that they are relatively inefficient, so they don't give you as much intensity as most other lights do.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:22 PM   #140
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I can't believe I missed this earlier.

A masterwork - even compared to your previous lighting threads.

Just wanted to say thanks for putting together a comprehensive post that is, hopefully, neophyte friendly as well.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:27 PM   #141
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Lighting is so frustrating for me I have bought so many fixtures, and they just did not last long before something happened to it. I currently have a 100g planted discus tank with pressurized Co2. I currently have a 2x48" T5 bulbs but I think the ballast is starting to go on it. Plus I also have a Marineland LED strip with the blue led's which is tarting to shotout at the plug. I want to place both units with 1 single quality unit. I am looking at the ATI 4x54w 48" Dimmable Sunpower. My problem is that I cannot suspend light over the tank. It has to be mounted to the rim of the tank. (wife doesn't want something hanging from the ceiling in our living room) Would this be a good solution, and a last solution for this tank. To much light? What bulbs should I put in it for best light for a planted discus tank. I prefer having a very bright tank during photo period. I would like my show tank back as it is at my front door kinda of a center piece in my house. So frustrated I kinda let it go, but I spent so much on the 7 discus that are in that tank I want to get back into it and get it back to the ohh and ahh factor that I used to have. But I need to start at the lighting.

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Old 02-22-2013, 03:28 PM   #142
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Default Finnex Ray 2 info

Hello all,
I've recently been trying to start up a planted 125 gallon tank. I found much of the info in this forum very useful so I figured I'd share a little about what I have learned about the Finnex Ray 2 daylight fixtures.

The 16" fixture has what I assume is the same LED strip as the 12" fixture. I ordered and returned a 16" fixture because I was not happy with the 10.5" LED strip.
The 24" fixture has about 22.5" of LEDs.
The 48" fixture has two of the strips used on the 24" fixture (45" total width). Both 48" fixtures I received ended up going back because only one side worked.
The 30" fixture has the same LED strip as the 24" fixture.

In general, it appears you can calculate the width of the LED strip by dividing the number of LEDs by 8. Most web sites list the number of LEDs but I haven't seen any list the width of the LED strip. I only know this for the Ray 2 daylight fixtures so I can't speak for the other Finnex LED fixtures.

Hope this helps anybody considering the Ray 2 daylight fixtures.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:02 AM   #143
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Just to clarify:

If my tank's dimensions are 36" x 12" x 18" (30 gal) then purchasing an Odyssea T5 HO dual listed here:

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-2...e-p/52122p.htm

Would this give me 50 to 55 PAR? Or medium to high light (more medium)? I want to grow some L. aromatica and Hair grass...would this lighting suffice? Awesome thread Hoppy!
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:17 PM   #144
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Default Measured my "PAR" 390 watts CFL = 118umols (125g)

This is a fantastic thread. I have a luxmeter that I put inside a ziplock bag. It is not that easy to handle unless you use a straw to suck out all the air. I put it on the bottom of my 125g tank. It is 18" deep and is running 6 65 watt 6500K CFL lamps (Hamilton). I got an average reading of 9000 lux, which converts by dividing by 76 to 118 umols. I thought my tank was medium to high light, and I guess that is correct. I do have pressurized CO2 and ferts and decent to good plant growth.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:52 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashnic05 View Post
Just to clarify:

If my tank's dimensions are 36" x 12" x 18" (30 gal) then purchasing an Odyssea T5 HO dual listed here:

http://www.aquatraders.com/36-inch-2...e-p/52122p.htm

Would this give me 50 to 55 PAR? Or medium to high light (more medium)? I want to grow some L. aromatica and Hair grass...would this lighting suffice? Awesome thread Hoppy!
It would give about that much light, possibly as much as 60 micromols. You need pressurized CO2 to use that much light without constant algae battles, and the plants will grow much better with CO2.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:49 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveMcKenz View Post
This is a fantastic thread. I have a luxmeter that I put inside a ziplock bag. It is not that easy to handle unless you use a straw to suck out all the air. I put it on the bottom of my 125g tank. It is 18" deep and is running 6 65 watt 6500K CFL lamps (Hamilton). I got an average reading of 9000 lux, which converts by dividing by 76 to 118 umols. I thought my tank was medium to high light, and I guess that is correct. I do have pressurized CO2 and ferts and decent to good plant growth.
To the underlined part. What you don't know is what wavelengths your lux meter is sensitive to so you don't know the PAR numbers expressed as umols and you don't know for certain whether your plants consider this medium to high light or even low light even though your plants seem to do ok.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:45 AM   #147
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Quick question, would a Finnex LED 12" be "high" light for a 7.5 gallon 12x12x12 Mr aqua cube? Is that good enough to grow HC, DHG, Riccia and needle leaf ludwigia?

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:58 AM   #148
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Quote:
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It would give about that much light, possibly as much as 60 micromols. You need pressurized CO2 to use that much light without constant algae battles, and the plants will grow much better with CO2.
I fully intend on doing pressurized co2, I've done my homework My plants will love me for it I'm sure. Now to figure out a good balance! Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:16 PM   #149
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Quote:
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To the underlined part. What you don't know is what wavelengths your lux meter is sensitive to so you don't know the PAR numbers expressed as umols and you don't know for certain whether your plants consider this medium to high light or even low light even though your plants seem to do ok.
Lux meters measure light in a fairly narrow band centered at about 550 nm wavelength, but they do measure some of the light in the band between about 450 and 650 nm, so they aren't blind to the wavelengths favored by plants.

Almost all of us light our tanks with fluorescent or LED lights, and most of us use predominantly cool white bulbs/LEDs. For that group, which is a large group of us, the conversion factor of 76, or 73, works well enough. Even a Quantum meter can only measure the PAR within 10% or so, and that is also more accurate than we need it to be.

It does no good to pretend that measuring how much light we can get from a specific light fixture is extremely difficult, and beyond the capabilities of most of us. We aren't scientists, and we all know that any light over any tank has zones of widely varying PAR intensities, especially after we put plants and hardscape in the tank. All we need to do is select a light by what the PAR is at the substrate and we will know, within the accuracy we need, that we have a usable light/tank setup.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:27 PM   #150
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Quote:
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It would give about that much light, possibly as much as 60 micromols. You need pressurized CO2 to use that much light without constant algae battles, and the plants will grow much better with CO2.
Would it be too much light if I were to purchase a quad T5 HO instead of the dual and have 2 x 10,000k daylights, one Actinic and one Magenta? I would be alternating between:

1x10,000k + Actinic & 1x10,000k + Magenta (4 hours each)

Or would it be better to replace one of the 10,000k with a 6,500k? I don't want to run CO2 more than 3bps due to livestock. Again, thanks for the help.
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