Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor

[creekbottom]

Home Depot up here was $40.

[m00se]

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...0.html?fquery=

[marcnc]

Originally Posted by m00se

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...0.html?fquery=

Thank you for the link, not sure if I will have enough room for that, would this one work?

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...filter+housing

[m00se]

Sure. That's the size the originals were made with.

[latchdan]

I just finished making mine, and lets just say it was a NIGHTMARE. Everything possible went wrong for me. I had leaks everywhere I ended up taking it apart 3 different times. Also this reactor is WAY more expensive then the R.G style I spent around 20 or so on it and I believe im over 60 on this Cerge reactor. Mainly because I could only find 3/4 to 5/8 brass barbed connectors. Yeah it looks nicer but I'm not sure if it was worth the head ache.

I ended up gluing some parts. Right now I have the co2 turned up more then it was with RG style reactor and getting a darker green drop checker... Kinda frustrating. I was thinking of taking pictures but forgot in my rush to instal it, then after fighting leaks it slipped my mind again.

I followed the design of page 10 using the same housing on page 1 but with a clear bottom.

[inkslinger]

Originally Posted by latchdan

I just finished making mine, and lets just say it was a NIGHTMARE. Everything possible went wrong for me. I had leaks everywhere I ended up taking it apart 3 different times. Also this reactor is WAY more expensive then the R.G style I spent around 20 or so on it and I believe im over 60 on this Cerge reactor. Mainly because I could only find 3/4 to 5/8 brass barbed connectors. Yeah it looks nicer but I'm not sure if it was worth the head ache.

I ended up gluing some parts. Right now I have the co2 turned up more then it was with RG style reactor and getting a darker green drop checker... Kinda frustrating. I was thinking of taking pictures but forgot in my rush to instal it, then after fighting leaks it slipped my mind again.

I followed the design of page 10 using the same housing on page 1 but with a clear bottom.

I got my 3/4 to 5/8 from Tractor Supply Store they come in nylon and work great for me no leaks just add some pipe dope .

[inkslinger]

Originally Posted by marcnc

Anyone know good source for whole house clear canister filter, that does not cost a ton. I found one at lowes today, but it was 60 bucks.

I bought a 20"x4.5" Big Blue for $69. I use it for a 110g tank with Eheim 2262 filter

[latchdan]

Originally Posted by inkslinger

I got my 3/4 to 5/8 from Tractor Supply Store they come in nylon and work great for me no leaks just add some pipe dope .

I tried OSH, Home Depot, Lowes and a Irrigation store no one has them in anything but brass, not sure if there is a tractor supply store near me. There is a farm supply...

[cobra]

Hey Guys,

Just want to put added emphasis on these darn discountfilter filters and how damn fragile they are. When posters say not to over tighten that's an understatement. I tightened mine less than one revolution past finger tight and the housing still cracked! It's odd because the plastic (acrylic) is beefy where the threads are located.

When I was doing the salt water thing I would have to tighten the filter housings (RO/DI unit) substantially more than these pentek (sp) filters after changing a DI filter out.

Use caution! I wouldn't tighten much past 1/2 revolution after finger tight (seriously).

Hope this helps...

G

[latchdan]

Originally Posted by cobra

Hey Guys,

Just want to put added emphasis on these darn discountfilter filters and how damn fragile they are. When posters say not to over tighten that's an understatement. I tightened mine less than one revolution past finger tight and the housing still cracked! It's odd because the plastic (acrylic) is beefy where the threads are located.

When I was doing the salt water thing I would have to tighten the filter housings (RO/DI unit) substantially more than these pentek (sp) filters after changing a DI filter out.

Use caution! I wouldn't tighten much past 1/2 revolution after finger tight (seriously).

G

Are you talking about the actual housing or the 3/4 inch inlet/outlet. I just did the housing hand tight, and it was the only connection that didn't leak haha. Everything else I tightened as tight as I could get it with channel locks. I was first scared to strip the threads so I didn't tighten them as hard as I could. I wish I did because it got leaks in several spots and had to retighten them.

I wanted to give an update, I turned my co2 up more and now got a yellow drop checker, I reduced co2 slightly and increased surface agitation but today the drop checker is still yellow, fish arn't gasping so I'm rollen with it. I hope it helps my algae problems.

Hope this helps...

[CAcrimson]

Newb here. I've read through every post in this thread and really appreciate all the info.

Would anyone with knowledge of the Cerges design, please confirm that I have the concept correct? Please see the attachment.

I will be using this on a 65 gal sump system. The return pump is an Eheim 1260 and I will be using the 20" housing. The CO2 will be coming from a Milwaukee MA957.

I just want to get some confirmation that I have the idea correct before I go ahead. Is there a more efficient way to get the CO2 into the inflow or will the 3/4"-to-airline barbed tee I have in the schematic work fine to keep it simple?

Thank you!!!

[m00se]

Originally Posted by cobra

Hey Guys,

Just want to put added emphasis on these darn discountfilter filters and how damn fragile they are. When posters say not to over tighten that's an understatement. I tightened mine less than one revolution past finger tight and the housing still cracked! It's odd because the plastic (acrylic) is beefy where the threads are located.

When I was doing the salt water thing I would have to tighten the filter housings (RO/DI unit) substantially more than these pentek (sp) filters after changing a DI filter out.

Use caution! I wouldn't tighten much past 1/2 revolution after finger tight (seriously).

Hope this helps...

G

As has been repeated here at least twice and elsewhere, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE TOP OF THESE FILTERS. Use vaseline on the seal AND the threads. You should only have to hand tighten it. Period. There should be no leaks at this point. If you reef on it you're going to have a bad time. Not only are you likely to crack the housing but TAKING IT APART WILL BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE, even with a wrench. This is a known issue with the acrylic filters and a half hearted effort scanning the plumbing DIY forums will have you a believer.... Sorry for your accident cobra. Discountfilters will probably replace it though.

Always use teflon tape on the threads of the barbs. This is what it's made for. They shouldn't leak. Remember guys, these filters are designed to work at 50-80 psi on household water systems. Leaks are not acceptable.

Cheers

[m00se]

Originally Posted by CAcrimson

Newb here. I've read through every post in this thread and really appreciate all the info.

Would anyone with knowledge of the Cerges design, please confirm that I have the concept correct? Please see the attachment.

I will be using this on a 65 gal sump system. The return pump is an Eheim 1260 and I will be using the 20" housing. The CO2 will be coming from a Milwaukee MA957.

I just want to get some confirmation that I have the idea correct before I go ahead. Is there a more efficient way to get the CO2 into the inflow or will the 3/4"-to-airline barbed tee I have in the schematic work fine to keep it simple?

Thank you!!!

Looks good to me!

[CAcrimson]

Thanks m00se!!! I am going to upload pics of my setup once I get it together!

[CAcrimson]

Has anyone tried using the Bulk Reef Supply's 20" Reverse Osmosis Canister with 3⁄4” Ports?

They are black and grey and a pretty good deal (especially if using discounts)!

I am curious if the internal cap design is the same as the discountfilterstore.com versions previous members have used?

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/revers...canisters.html