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Old 02-23-2013, 12:53 PM   #46
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Part of why the fx6 dropped it's GPH almost in half is what i think, and a lot of good arguments i've read is such high gph dosnt make a great biological filter, which is really the whole point of a filter besides mechanical. Media basket can be bigger, but with such a high flow, does it matter? Just a thought.

BTW i msg'd hagen yesterday about the 2 dial knobs on the FX6, they said one is for vacuums, the other for water changes if anyone was wondering. They also have no idea when it'll be available in the states.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:02 PM   #47
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My money is on energy efficiency. I don't think the difference in water dwell is going to make enough difference between 400 (250 real gph?) and 900 (600 gph?), frankly. As a planted tank owner I really don't worry too much about biological actions in the filter anyway, beyond what would be considered ample.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:04 PM   #48
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For just plants your right, but should be note worthy for those that also keep fish. Lots of great research and arguments for dwell time, which is why seachem recommends not a fast flow over matrix.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:45 PM   #49
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Default Re: Fluval FX5 Canister Filter?

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Originally Posted by m00se View Post
Someone mentioned replacing their ribbed hoses and I seriously question why? What's wrong with them that they need replacing?
I mentioned replacing the ribbed hose with smooth vinyl hose for multiple reasons actually. Increase in flow rate (the ribbed hose acts almost like a series of speed bumps), less gunk buildup in the hose (the ribs catch trash on the intake side and can slow or even stop flow given enough buildup), and vinyl is more durable (the stock hose can dry rot because that's what plastic does over time).

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Old 02-23-2013, 01:48 PM   #50
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Thanks everyone for great feed back so far.

So here what started all this for me. Setting up new 90, I only have budget for one filter. I first ordered Rena filstar XP XL, it came in damaged and it was last one they had in stock so I returned it, and did some reason and read a lot of bad things about the motor so I felt since I travel every other week I would be good to stay away from it.

I also need to be able to add UV, CO2 Reactor and inline heater. So I plan to build the manifold that was shared here. Thinking it should work great with the FX5.

Now I have to ask was FX5 best option? I don't know you guys are making me second guess my order . It has not arrived and I could return it when it comes in with no charge. It comes back to my budget for filter is only for one filter and about 200 bucks. I also need something that not going to be loud as this will be right next to my bedroom. So do I keep it or get something else?

My stand going to be finished in a few days and I like to get everything in place soon.

Thanks everyone
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:48 PM   #51
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Amberoze,

Eh.... Except that they're smooth on the inside and are made out of some special plastic that I can never remember the name of, you'd be right.

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Old 02-23-2013, 01:59 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Thanks everyone for great feed back so far.

Now I have to ask was FX5 best option? I don't know you guys are making me second guess my order . It has not arrived and I could return it when it comes in with no charge. It comes back to my budget for filter is only for one filter and about 200 bucks. I also need something that not going to be loud as this will be right next to my bedroom. So do I keep it or get something else?

My stand going to be finished in a few days and I like to get everything in place soon.

Thanks everyone
I am not sure what is causing you the double think here. You bought an awesome filter and with the load you're throwing at it with the additional heater and reactor you should have excellent results. I have my tank about 3 feet from my desk in a room where you can hear leaves rustle half an acre away and I will defy you to pick out the sound of the FX5. I would consider building a spray bar however.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:29 PM   #53
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Are the ball valves for each device that will connect to the manifold 1/2 or 3/4? Cannot tell from the picture if maybe they are 3/4 with reducer connected to the 1 inch.

Thanks
The tees are 1" with a 1/2" teeing off of it (ie, the tee has 1", 1", and 1/2" branches). No reducer necessary because the tees reduce from 1" to 1/2". The device ball valves are 1/2".
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:33 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amberoze View Post
I mentioned replacing the ribbed hose with smooth vinyl hose for multiple reasons actually. Increase in flow rate (the ribbed hose acts almost like a series of speed bumps), less gunk buildup in the hose (the ribs catch trash on the intake side and can slow or even stop flow given enough buildup), and vinyl is more durable (the stock hose can dry rot because that's what plastic does over time).

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Where'd you buy the vinyl tubing?
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:08 AM   #55
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FX5 or Pro3e or G6?

Trying to decide which of those is the best filter for a large tank?
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:55 PM   #56
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What do you guys think about using these ball valve for each device? I am wondering if they would give me bit more control over the flow, rather than standard PVC ball valve. Maybe more control like a gate valve?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...16&pcatid=8016
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:13 PM   #57
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That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.

Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.

Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETK View Post
That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.

Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.

Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.

Thanks for the info. I think I am just going to go with the PVC ball valves. Only thing I might change is make them 3/4 since my filter is 3/4 and so is my UV.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #59
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Got the filter today, wow it a beast as you already know. Cannot wait to get it setup and running. Sadly I am few weeks away from that.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:43 PM   #60
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Once you buy one u will soon buy another ^^
I got 8 n wouldn't trade it for 100 eheim if someone offer a trade.
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