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Old 02-15-2013, 08:17 PM   #1
latchdan
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Micros or Macros first?


So I've been dosing the EI method for a while now, just recently I moved and I bought more test kits because mine were old/expired.
Tank size 37 gallon 80par lighting on for 3 hours 1 hour off 3 hours on.

Today I checked my nitrates and they were 80+ppm Phosphates 5+ppm
My plants are just not growing it seems or very slowly. I bought a bunch of new plants only around 5 days old and nothing really happening.

During the move my rex grigs style co2 reactor broke on me. (the inlet for the co2 tube broke off and I couldn't fix it. So I'm on my back up one which is a red sea reactor. I have it on max right now and lowered my surface disturbtion from my canister, I also have a aquaclear 50, so there is still surface movement.

So I am in the process of doing a water change to lower nitrate and phosphates. Both are 0 at the start, since I'm using RO water. (just tested it)

Is it okay to dose micro (csm+b) first after a water change or do I still want macros first? Since my macros are so high right now even after a 50% water change they are still going to be in the right area 40ppm nitrate and 2ppm phosphate. Or should I just not dose anything the day after a water change?
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:54 PM   #2
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You can start off with micronutrients first, there is no problem with changing up the order.

In fact, you can probably not dose macronutrients for a bit if you want to lower your levels a little.

EI dosing can be adjusted to suit the needs of each situation, since it is unlikely water from different locations are the same.

So in your case, with high nitrates and phosphates, you may want to skip the macronutrients for a bit, and just dose (say) K2SO4 and the trace mix for a bit, test again (and/or observe your plants) and then start up on macronutrient dosing once your current nitrate and phosphate levels have decreased a bit.

In addition, I would calibrate your nitrate and phosphate test kits (there are various instructions on these forums) to ensure that they are working perfectly.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:45 PM   #3
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Anthony,

Do you think lengthening his photo period would help too? Seems like a short time(s) to me... IME, it would help with the growth and help suck up some of the extra nutrients. Assuming everything else is good. I am not sure how those red sea reactors work so I can't say for the CO2...
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:58 PM   #4
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I just reduced my photo period at the suggestion of another member to help combat algae im going to reduce my ei dosing til the plants get situated then bump up the lights and dosing again
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dempsey View Post
Anthony,

Do you think lengthening his photo period would help too? Seems like a short time(s) to me... IME, it would help with the growth and help suck up some of the extra nutrients. Assuming everything else is good. I am not sure how those red sea reactors work so I can't say for the CO2...
Quote:
Originally Posted by latchdan View Post
I just reduced my photo period at the suggestion of another member to help combat algae im going to reduce my ei dosing til the plants get situated then bump up the lights and dosing again
I think 6 hours total would be fine, but breaking it up into two 3 hour periods is unnecessary.

If a siesta period is required, I would do two 4 hour photoperiods instead.

You can reduce your EI for the nitrates and phosphates until their levels are slightly lower, and then continue dosing as normal.
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