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Old 01-09-2013, 09:49 PM   #16
mustafa shashaah
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Originally Posted by Wasserpest View Post
Well, this comes a bit as a surprise. If that is true, then you have an excess of Nitrates. And Nitrites should be zero. KH and GH are a bit on the high side, possibly you are using a substrate that is not completely inert?

One thing you might want to do is to "calibrate" your test kit by testing different water sources with known parameters. You might know what is in your tap water, so you could verify that. You could also test some distilled water which should show as zero NO3 and NO2.

Keep in mind that the "test strips" are not very precise. Still should give you a rough estimate. If you confirm your test results, it might be good to increase your regular water changes. NO2 is poisonous for fish.
that's why i wrote that the no2 is between 1-5 because the test strip color wasn't clear and i don't have any fish dieing, a couple of days i will repeat the test.
thank you again, today we had snow, i feel a sleep, good night.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:38 AM   #17
mustafa shashaah
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Default Agricultural fertilizers

today i visited the agriculture store equipment.
he said, he is not sure if his fertilizers which is used for flowers, trees, vegetables, fruit trees, orchards ... will be safe to my fish.
it's brand name is " Grow more ", it's a Turquoise Grains 100% water soluble fertilizer concentrate for foliar and soil applications.
N : 20
P : 20
K : 20
Fe:0.10%
Zn:0.05%
Cu:0.05%
Mg:0.10%
Mn:0.05%
Mo:0.0005%
B :0.02%
Ca:0.05%
S :0.20%
is there an expert who can encourage me using this staff in my planted tank, note that, also i have fish in the tank.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:28 PM   #18
DarkCobra
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There are usually two issues when using a terrestrial fertilizer in an aquatic environment.

First is the source of nitrogen. Terrestrial fertilizers typically use "ammoniacal" nitrogen sources - meaning ammonia producing. These are safe and effective on land, and being cheap to produce, we can assume this is what it contains. But ammonia, being fish waste, is of course harmful to fish. Aquatic fertilizers primarily use more expensive nitrate based nitrogen sources, which being the same as the end product of the ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate biological filtration process, are much better tolerated.

Second is the copper content. Copper in excessive quantities is also toxic in an aquatic environment. Compare the ratios of your fertilizer:

Fe: 0.10%
Cu: 0.05%

To CSM+B, a commonly used concentrated micronutrient source, that contains no N/P/K and so is used in much smaller quantity:

Fe: 7.0%
Cu: 0.1%

Adjusting the dosages to provide the same amount of iron (a good reference point for comparison), the CSM+B provides about 35 times less copper! Even if you had not provided a chemical breakdown, the turquoise color - characteristic of copper sulfate - is still a giveaway to high copper content.

Such a fertilizer can only be safely used in reduced quantity. Further reduced if fish are present, and further still with sensitive fauna like shrimp. Given that you have fish, and a high nutrient demand due to your light and CO2, I don't think this will be of much use to you.

You're already getting too much nitrogen (as nitrates) from fish food, which will need to be reduced with water changes. I'd try to reduce them by half to 50ppm. Once this is achieved, given the typical composition of fish food, that will probably put your phosphates at about 10ppm, which is also acceptable.

What fish food lacks is potassium (K), plus iron and the other trace micronutrients. If you can find a source of pure potassium sulfate, plus a micronutrient mix with high iron and low copper (like CSM+B), you'd be set.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:58 AM   #19
Africancichlids637
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This is what I use since my build in September 2012.
1 tablespoon of each. Potassium, nitrate, sulfate, Mag. sulfate, Plantex CSM+B to 500ml of boiled cooled water. Dosing is 15ml every other day or as needed in my 120 fatboy. I only run 4 t5HO 6500K for 5 hrs a day, C02 injected into inline reactor to canister filter. I use tap water and I don't really test my water because I'm not so good at it. I use a PH controller which keeps my Ph level at 6.5. This is my results since September Pm me if you need source
THANKS to many of you on here and Minnfish who has helped me with my build
When I started


Half way

As of today 1-14-2013
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:13 AM   #20
mustafa shashaah
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Smile After adding the fertilizers, my swords are getting too long again

Hello every body, my good friends,, sorry for being away for a while, studying masters degree in music.
i took all your advices in eye of consideration, RO 30% water changes every week, getting lower levels of Gh & Kh, i planted another red and green plants, added root fertilizers 2 inches under the gravel, and a daily 10 drops of plantamin. After 2 weeks, all of the plants are growing up and my old swords are getting too long again. but i am afraid of having problems again, because the sword are now about 32 inches, it's covering the surface of the water.
Q: is this situation will lower the light levels for the other short plants.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:15 AM   #21
mustafa shashaah
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Hello every body, my good friends,, sorry for being away for a while, studying masters degree in music.
i took all your advices in eye of consideration, RO 30% water changes every week, getting lower levels of Gh & Kh, i planted another red and green plants, added root fertilizers 2 inches under the gravel, and a daily 10 drops of plantamin. After 2 weeks, all of the plants are growing up and my old swords are getting too long again. but i am afraid of having problems again, because the sword are now about 32 inches, it's covering the surface of the water.
Q: is this situation will lower the light levels for the other short plants.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/al...?albumid=10346
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:16 AM   #22
mustafa shashaah
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http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pi...ictureid=18106
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