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#1 |
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Planted Member
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Good single stage regulator?
Hi guys,
I've been reading ALOT on how to build a regulator and I pretty much think I've got it down. However, I want to make sure I am picking the right equipment. I think this is the body that I want to go with. http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-25692-...regulator.aspx As far as I can tell this one seems to be a good one but I can't find any threads dealing with this specific one. Any comments? Suggestions? Any help will be appreciated. I will follow up later on with the other parts as I do more research and searching online. THANKS! |
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#2 |
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Moderator
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I am not sure if anyone has used that specific Smith regulator, but in general, there are many regulators that will work for CO2.
Keep in mind that a lot of the brands that we use (Victor, Smith, Concoa, etc) design regulators for industrial purposes, so they are often more than what is required in our hobby. There are some cheaper regulators that work just as well too.
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Anthony
A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Ehein 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder. Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M |
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#3 | |
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Planted Member
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#4 |
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Planted Member
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So I take it that that one might be overkill?
How about this one? http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-25692-...regulator.aspx |
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#5 | |
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Moderator
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Quote:
I guess it depends on what you want in the end. It is like comparing a Honda Civic and a Mercedes. Both will get you from point A to B, just in different style. Also, the link you provided links to the same regulator.
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Anthony
A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Ehein 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder. Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M |
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#6 |
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Planted Member
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this is the one I meant to link to.
http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-21499-...regulator.aspx I tend to agree with you Darkblade48, I would rather have the one that's overkill than one that will simply get the job done for less. I have another question. So I plan to use pps pro when I get all of this CO2 stuff taken care of and when I read this Newbies guide to CO2http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...e-pps-pro.html from what I read am I to believe that since we're using such a low rate of co2 injection that it's not necessary to turn it off at night. Therefore my question is, would it be a terrible idea to not install a solenoid on my regulator unit? I could always install one later right, assuming I don't permanently assemble this thing? I'm not too worried about wasting co2 at night since its such a low rate and I have a 10lb tank so it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for all help so far |
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#7 | ||
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Moderator
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Quote:
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I use one because it helps save gas. You can install a solenoid at a later time if you wish. I'm not sure what you mean by permanently assemble the setup; as long as you are not using Loctite, parts can be disassembled easily (teflon tape or pipe compound).
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Anthony
A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Ehein 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder. Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M |
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#8 | |
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Planted Member
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#9 |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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On a 10lbs tank, the difference between running all the time vs on a timer, could mean the difference of having to refill the tank every three months as opposed to once a year. From that standpoint, I'm lazy and can't be bothered to get the tanks filled more often, so I'd opt for the timer.
Also, I would go with teflon tape over loctite only because it makes it way easier to redo something, like fixing leaks, or upgrading parts if using the tape.
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Eheim Pimp Club,# 496
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#10 |
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newbie
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For whatever its worth, weld-fabulous probably is the cheapest place to get the same one gla uses. EBay generally is more. You could do more with your money if you do some research into finding a used. 2-stage. That's a whole other animal in itself though.
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#11 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Just a note - the two regs you linked have 200 and 150 psi low pressure gauges. That will work, but more ideal would be a 60 or 100 gauge - you'll be able to be more precise when picking a working pressure. This will be especially useful when you reconnect the regulator after a cylinder refill and don't want to mess (much) with the needle valve.
Something like these: http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-21519-...onnection.aspx http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-21542-...regulator.aspx I'd still recommend a used reg from Evilbay (a quality used dual stage can be had for less than any of the models you or I linked). As long as it's in working condition when you get it, a used industrial single or dual stage reg will almost definitely last as long as your interest in the hobby ...so long as you don't take a baseball bat to it, or something similar. |
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#12 | |
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Planted Member
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Quote:
If I ended up going with the first one you posted and wanted to connect it to a fabco nv 55 what parts would I need to go from reg to needle valve to tubing? I am having a hard time figuring out all the bits and pieces I need. |
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#13 |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Check oldpunk's sticky in the Equipment forum about building a regulator. It has the answers to everything you need to know.
As to the pressure, the first reg you linked was a 40-175-320. 40 = Series 40 model 175 = Max output pressure in PSI 320 = CGA320 nipple and nut Additionally, if you click on "larger image", you can see that the red inside numbers are in PSI. The highest number is 200. Even if you didn't know that this model was rated for 175psi, included gauges are always a bit higher than the maximum output pressure. And I *still* would recommend an Evilbay used single dual stage over a new single stage due to cost. |
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#14 | |
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Wannabe Guru
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Quote:
a 60 psi LP gauge means around 45psi max output, 30-50psi output setting is close to the max, too much burden to the poppet valve spring inside, imo.
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#15 |
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Wannabe Guru
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Smith double stage is the cheapest in retail that I can find so far, other double stage welding regulators, such as Victor VTS, are much higher in price, and of course, other commonly seen chrome plated double stage or the stainless steel, $400-$1000+, in retail..
Difference in retail price means something.
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