Josh's Regulator Build Thread - Page 6
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:12 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
I am pretty sure the 6011A is only 24VDC.

The 6011 comes in 24VDC as well as other voltages (110VAC, 230VAC)
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Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
You sir are correct. The 6011A only comes in 24vdc and 230vac. No 110.
We both seen to be incorrect here. Check this out:



I happen to have a 120VAC 6011 'A' and didn't even notice. lol

Last edited by oldpunk78; 11-05-2012 at 02:42 AM.. Reason: pic was/is messed up
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:02 AM   #77
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Intriguing! All the 6011As that I have seen so far are 24 VDC...
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:24 AM   #78
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Every once in a while, you'll hear me say that I prefer brass over stainless. Here's why:



Well, at least I have a spare solenoid coil now.

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Old 12-12-2012, 01:30 AM   #79
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SS is hard, torque control is necessary when assemble.

You can get a 1/8 npt die to fix the broken threads, only the first two threads are broken so that elbow still be ok once it is fixed.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:14 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
SS is hard, torque control is necessary when assemble.

You can get a 1/8 npt die to fix the broken threads, only the first two threads are broken so that elbow still be ok once it is fixed.
Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well.

Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:36 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well.

Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.
I'm glad you posted this as I have a Superlok SS-4HLN-2.00 Nipple and a SS-2-ME elbow because I couldn't get those two fittings in Swagelok. So now I know I need to use a little more thread tape on those fittings and not crank down quite so hard. Very informative thread.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:11 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well.

Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.
are you sure the superlok are 1/8" npt? not 1/8" BST? from the picture I don't see the angle of the threads the same as 1/8" npt, kind of straight as BST.

BTW, some 1/8" npt fittings have different standard of teeth(single thread) angle, you can find more info on swagelok official fittings manual.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:42 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
are you sure the superlok are 1/8" npt? not 1/8" BST? from the picture I don't see the angle of the threads the same as 1/8" npt, kind of straight as BST.

BTW, some 1/8" npt fittings have different standard of teeth(single thread) angle, you can find more info on swagelok official fittings manual.
This really got me thinking so I had to go check the fittings I bought. The Superlok fittings I bought are in fact 1/8" and 1/4" mnpt fittings. I'm not sure what oldpunk has but I would assume there the same.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #84
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Ya, I'm sure the parts I used were npt. Just too much torque and not enough tape on my part.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:52 PM   #85
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Not sure if I shared these or not :/









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Old 01-01-2013, 12:27 AM   #86
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how much on average does it cost you to put one of these together?
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:22 AM   #87
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how much on average does it cost you to put one of these together?
I have spent anywhere between $75-$500 on a single complete regulator. I would say the avarage probably works out too around $225. My avarage is really skewed though. The last time I was patient and made myself one, I spent about $160 which included a brand new reg and a stainless post body.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:35 AM   #88
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if only count the total of the raw material, my cost is low

the regulator price is pretty open, you have to be lucky to pick up a nice one for low price, majority is around $50-$100.

the good solenoid, and the good metering valve, with good price, most of the time, are pure luck.

started from last couple month, there were the Burkert 2822 and the Parker Hannifin H3L, really good parts/deals both showed up at the same time. put the msg out there so everyone would have a chance to get them, an opportunity that won't show up again in years..

now the burkert 2822 are gone, it will be hard to find a good solenoid and cost will go up.

Still have enough good solenoids to build,
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:24 PM   #89
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Very cool. I think i may just buy a regulator to start cause this will be my first. Then maybe after that ill consider putting one together myself
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:58 PM   #90
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Manzpants, search for ebay item #271129947466, they're selling a Swagelok B-SS4 metering valve for $30 including free shipping. They sell for $95 directly from Swagelok.

Here's the link for the B-SS4 on Swagelok's site for more tech info:
http://swagelok.com/search/find_prod...rt=B-SS4&item=
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