tank level is dangerously high w/ my cpr overflow

[sjb1987]

hi all
ive recently started a 75 gal tank... bought the cpr 900 overflow box and wet/dry kit..running a rio hyperflo 12hf with a split off running a cerges reactor

heres my problem so far...maintaining a consistent water level in the display tank

it was doing fine up until the middle of the week when i did a water change.. i didnt change anything then until my water level was way too high so i adjusted the overflow box until the water level lowered... but then i was having way too much splashing in the spill way on the back compartment of the overflow box so i adjusted the overflow box until it stopped and all was well until today when i did another water change

now it seems no matter what i do my water level will not lower in my main tank.. this water change i did however remove the filter thats on the drip plate above the bio bale.. i also taped the 3 hole thats in between the wet dry section and the pump chamber

thanks in advanced

[NWA-Planted]

Don't adjust the overflow, check for any blockages first, or reduced flow in the filtration area dirty mechanical filtration mostly. Also do you have a gate or ball on the return line? Thats really where you can adjust the flow rate

Sent from a dark corner in my happy place

[sjb1987]

theres no blockage... im thinking that im pushing too much water and for some stupid reason i only put one ball valve and its right in front of the reactor so i could control how much flow is goin through it

the pump is rated for 750 gph and the box is rated for 600gph but at the head height and all the 90s i just assumed that it would be around 600 or less gph

well i know what i need to do...head to (b)lowes in the morning and get another ball valve

[Kathyy]

Good plan. And as soon as it is inserted you will never need to use it. Check the gizmos that come with Rio pumps, there should be a ball valve in there.

I don't know why but new overflows seem to need to be broken in. The first month I turned on my new to me drilled tank I needed to nudge the ball valve every time but now it is fine when it is turned on. Same when I originally set up the Herbie, after it broke me in good it stopped being so fidgety.

[HD Blazingwolf]

mine was similar. and like kathyy said they do seem to need to break in

one thing u'll need to check once u sealed those three holes. the wet/dry section should hold pressure now. it can backup the overflow a little and cause it to be higher.. adjusting the siphon tube will help regulate the flow

my overflow is rated at 300 gph and i give it around 330 gph

what is ur plumbing setup like?

[sjb1987]

Yup right after my last post I went to check on the water level... Tank was fine...sump level was way too high...just like you had said wolf, there will be air pressure build up... I immediately cut a small hole in the tape to relieve some pressure..now it's running smoothly like before

So adjusting the siphon tube will fix this problem when I re tape the holes? What about running an airline tube from above the drip tray down through the bio bale, under the baffle and up to the pump side. Will this work as well for a "back up" just incase the siphon tube doesn't take care of all of it?

From my pump it tees off immediately 3/4inch, one side goes to the reactor with a ball valve in front and then comes out of it and from there it meets up with the other side into a tee and heads to the tank... There is a total of 5 90s and 2 tees in the return line

[HD Blazingwolf]

The best thing u can do, is do a poor tape job..
Sounds stupid, but pressure has to release somehow and the siphon is constanly pulling air down.

I tried cutting small holes and found it wasted co2 for some reason. The middle divider has a small section where the corners meet and there is a small gap leave that kinda open by stretching the tap across and pressing down evenly, but with ur whole hand, dont try to fit the tape down in the grooves. This will be ur pressure release. U still want it to hold some pressure. Just not all

In the end, ur tape will lose the constant battle and pressure will find the weekest spot.. ull soon learn where that is and adjust appropriately.
If u seal things too well air will build up in the wet dry section and go under the baffle, u have huge bubble explosions about every 10 seconds.


All that said. After u find the right amount of pressure to hold. Adjusting the siphon tube will control a lot of the water level in the tank and overflow box.
I aim for a 1 inch difference in water level from the wet/dry section to the sump section