[DONE] Cladophora Infestation [04/13/2013] Post#35 - Page 2
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #16
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If it is Clado, you might as well tear down te tank and start again. At least that is what I've done after getting tired of removing them manually.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:06 PM   #17
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Considering it.
But first am going to purchase two products to use from EQUO:Bio-Alganex is a biological anti-algae containing specifically chosen bacteria which helps in reducing unwanted algae, harmless to flora and fauna. Then theres Algae Stop, which is a last resort, where you use a spot dosage treatment on the algae.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:36 PM   #18
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You're dumping a ton of different chemicals in your tank. I read through the thread but, honestly I've lost count of how many different products you've added, either to fix the algae or to counteract the effects of the other products.

I'm constantly dealing with outbreaks of hair algae in one tank or the other so I don't have the answer. I remove it and try to keep it under control as much as possible. I'd suggest that you get some advice from more knowledgeable tpt members about fixing what's causing the algae and try to avoid chemicals whenever possible.
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angelsword View Post
You're dumping a ton of different chemicals in your tank. I read through the thread but, honestly I've lost count of how many different products you've added, either to fix the algae or to counteract the effects of the other products.

I'm constantly dealing with outbreaks of hair algae in one tank or the other so I don't have the answer. I remove it and try to keep it under control as much as possible. I'd suggest that you get some advice from more knowledgeable tpt members about fixing what's causing the algae and try to avoid chemicals whenever possible.
1+ ... if you're having reoccurring algae problem. I would recommend identifying the root cause of the problem first before you resort to chemical warfare. Sounds like you might have too much light, low nitrate, and low flow in your tank. What is your tank spec?
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:40 AM   #20
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To tell the truth I lost count too.

My tank is bow front tank about 120 liters.
-Odyssea light fixture with a built in timer has four 39W T5HO lights 3 at 6500K and one at 8000K. Ones all four at nine and turns of at seven.
-Tetra EX700 Canister Filter with the correct dosage of Seachem phosoguard in it.
-Tetra 100 (for 100 liters) air pump opened to half capacity.
-Tetra Co2 Optimat, uses a thin membrane to diffuse the Co2 into the water.
-Tetra Complete Substrate with sand gravel over it.

When I was starting I didn't have the Odyssea light fixture, but I had the aquarium built in hood which has 2 25W T8 "Daylight" lamps. And I added Tetra "Initial Sticks" plant supplement tabs. Most of the Tetra supplements I bought had no english instructions so I guessed the dosage from what the instruction said instead of translating the instructions to english, but the algae didn't appear until I found some dwarf baby tears and want to to provide enough plant supplement that accidentally dropped too many Tetra plant supplements tried to push them into the substrate but some resurfaced out of the substrate and thats when the algae first appeared. A few weeks ago I checked the substrate but the tabs dissolved.

As you can see I used only Tetra at the beginning until I noticed lack alot of info on their products and sites compared to Seachem.

--Currently--
I currently dose half a cap of Seachem Excel and one or none of the tetra Co2, that's after checking with a co2 indicator. I stopped using Seachem Flourish, only a few drops over unaffected plants. Which might be the reason why the algae has barely grown in the past week.

I placed once (2-3 weeks ago) 2 Dulparit K (placed 1cm under substrate) which is meant to enhance plant roots. The areas where I placed it had a strong algae growth.

Use 1 sanoplant on infected area. Sanoplant, 1 tab for each 50 liter, it provides fertilizing with Co2, general fertilizer containing all nutrient salts and fertilizing with trace elements and iron.

I will not use "pure liquid" until 2 weeks from as a second chance for the algenkiller.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sub-80 View Post
To tell the truth I lost count too.

My tank is bow front tank about 120 liters.
-Odyssea light fixture with a built in timer has four 39W T5HO lights 3 at 6500K and one at 8000K. Ones all four at nine and turns of at seven.
-Tetra EX700 Canister Filter with the correct dosage of Seachem phosoguard in it. According to spec, your filter is 700 lph
-Tetra 100 (for 100 liters) air pump opened to half capacity.
-Tetra Co2 Optimat, uses a thin membrane to diffuse the Co2 into the water.
-Tetra Complete Substrate with sand gravel over it.

When I was starting I didn't have the Odyssea light fixture, but I had the aquarium built in hood which has 2 25W T8 "Daylight" lamps. And I added Tetra "Initial Sticks" plant supplement tabs. Most of the Tetra supplements I bought had no english instructions so I guessed the dosage from what the instruction said instead of translating the instructions to english, but the algae didn't appear until I found some dwarf baby tears and want to to provide enough plant supplement that accidentally dropped too many Tetra plant supplements tried to push them into the substrate but some resurfaced out of the substrate and thats when the algae first appeared. A few weeks ago I checked the substrate but the tabs dissolved.

As you can see I used only Tetra at the beginning until I noticed lack alot of info on their products and sites compared to Seachem.

--Currently--
I currently dose half a cap of Seachem Excel and one or none of the tetra Co2, that's after checking with a co2 indicator. I stopped using Seachem Flourish, only a few drops over unaffected plants. Which might be the reason why the algae has barely grown in the past week.

I placed once (2-3 weeks ago) 2 Dulparit K (placed 1cm under substrate) which is meant to enhance plant roots. The areas where I placed it had a strong algae growth.

Use 1 sanoplant on infected area. Sanoplant, 1 tab for each 50 liter, it provides fertilizing with Co2, general fertilizer containing all nutrient salts and fertilizing with trace elements and iron.

I will not use "pure liquid" until 2 weeks from as a second chance for the algenkiller.
How deep is your tank? From the look it is either 18" or 24" tall. With your light fixture you're at medium to high light. You'll need constant co2 such as pressurized co2. Not sure how well Tetra Co2 Optimat would work. If you don't want to go with pressurized co2, I would recommend with just 2 bulbs which will get you low end of medium light. Also your photo period is way too long for that much light. I would cut it down to 8 hours or less. Also your flow is too low. I would increase to at least 10x.

I'm not familiar with your dosing so I can't help you there.

Last edited by n00dl3; 12-27-2012 at 02:43 PM.. Reason: update
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:50 PM   #22
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Yeah, it 18" tall. will try that.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:36 AM   #23
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I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82nd_Airborne View Post
I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.
There's at least 1000 similar tales on various forums, DIY CO2 is one way to learn it the hard way, did this myself.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82nd_Airborne View Post
I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.
Yeah, I bought a Fluval Pressurized 88g CO2 kit will probably get it in two-three weeks. I hope it works.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:13 AM   #26
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It has been a long time since I wrote in this thread.

First of all, What I have is Cladophora not hair algae.

This is my current situation.





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The plan is Hydrogen peroxide
1- remove the canister empty it and place it in a dark place.
2- use two buckets and a plastic wrap: one bucket (b1)with h2o2 and water the other (b2) just water. Remove plant place in bucket for half an hour the relocate into other bucket to rinse then place on plastic wrap. (Plants should be fine for few hours) or use a third bucket?
3- scrap the substrate that has clado and throw into the bin.
4-place air stone and airline into b1 and b2.
5-place dry fertilizer into the substrate.
6-return plants into tank
7- place sponge filter
8-after 3 days wash with boiling water.

This method shouldn't hurt the fish or shrimp.

In the tank I have 2 driftwoods, one with java moss on it. Should I leave the driftwood with java moss longer since it is completely covered with clado? Should I start with a new batch of b1 after every few plants or should one be enough?

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I installed the co2 system a week ago. Some guys told me that the plants look weak but have not informed of what the possible sources of the foreground plants not growing.

First am not sure what am doing wrong with the plants. The background plants seem to be fine and grow fast. I have wisteria, cabomba and another which I don't know its name. It is just the foreground plants that seem to grow at a snail pace.

I have 125 Liter (33 us gal) tank, which is 3/4 planted used to be all planted but removed the carpet plants that was infected. 3x 39W High Output T5 @6500k and 1x 39W High Output T5 @8000k, on from 10 am to 6pm. Co2 1bps from 9 am to 5pm (Drop checker purplish green).

For fertilizing, I use liquid fertilizers: Seachem Flourish, Easy-Life Ferro (Fe), Easy-Life Nitro (NO3) and Easy-Life Kalium-Pottasium (K). I used the "yet another nutrient calculator" (http://calc.petalphile.com/) for weekly dosage, which has a premixed category. That resulting dosage
Seachem Flourish: 2.5ml
Fe: 3ml
K:11ml
no3: 12ml

Can you indicate what am doing wrong??

I noticed that the clado grew faster with fertilizer.

Please tell me what is the imbalance that has caused my foreground plant to grow slowly.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:33 AM   #27
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Well I too have gotten the "DAM CLADO"!!! I know where I got it from, but that doesn't matter, I still have it!

I am going to be watching this thread to see how your bucket system works!!!

Does your clado stink?

Mine does!!! It almost smells like raw sewage when I have pulled it out and rubbed it between my fingers!!! The tank itself doesn't stink though!!!

I HOPE I DON'T HAVE TO TARE DOWN MY WHOLE TANK!!! Either one of us for that matter!!!
BEST of LUCK to Ya!!!
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:07 AM   #28
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The plan sounds good, but the trick is getting the right amount of H2O2 and time to kill the clado without significantly harming the plants. Remember it's quite resistant to H2O2. You might try a single-plant dip test, starting relatively low on concentration/time, then wait three days to see the result - it won't be visibly affected at first, and if killed, it will take at least that long to start decomposing. Increase the concentration/time if the previous test failed. Then once you know what works and what doesn't, you can treat everything with more confidence.

You might check out my "One-Two Punch" thread as well, which was posted after you started this thread. I've burned Marimo balls (a form of clado) subjected to direct flow with this treatment, but I don't guarantee it to be shrimp safe. Even if you don't use the treatment, there's some good info about H2O2 in there.

I believe it's possible to rescue your tank, but it will not be easy, nor will you likely manage to eliminate it all on the first attempt. If you persist and win, you will definitely have my greatest respect.

Yes, clado grows faster with ferts. Consider it a plant in most respects, even though it's an algae. It's impossible to control it with nutrients without destroying plants too.

I don't see an obvious source of phosphorus in your dosing, which might be affecting your foreground plants. But with an algae infestation of this extent, it's really hard to get issues like this figured out, as the algae can affect nutrient levels, block light, and parasitize and weaken plants. Better to get the algae beaten down first, especially since clado is not a sign of improper water parameters.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew View Post

Does your clado stink?

Drew
Yes, when you rub it between your fingers it smells sour, but smelling it from the tank, at first I couldn't smell anything but after ignoring my tank for a month or two my tank became unbearable to stand by, half of the surface area had clado which was attached on my wisteria. I did some trimming and removed the clado.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:53 PM   #30
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Default Re: Cladophora (Not hair algae) Infestation [03/02/2013]

First thing i did was place a bunch of cladophora in a bucket (17 liters, 4 us gal) with 1 mil of 6% H2O2 concentration and waited 30 min, no difference. I added an extra 1 mil and waited another 30 min but still no difference. Took a clump of clado 3cm in diameters and placed 1ml H2O2, it took 4 hours to wither to a quarter of its size.

I followed the plan except I increased the dosage of h2o2 after 3 patches of plants and i did the mechanical removal in the diluted h2o2 bucket. And rinse the plants in the second bucket (water) then place on piece of plastic wrap.

I had a driftwood with java moss on it, but it was completely covered with clado, so i found no other way but to get rid of the moss and the clado. And I also had alot of java moss in my other tank so to recreate the java moss driftwood was easy. I replanted the cleaned plants but I threw some out that were cheaply sold or were heavily infected.

Things that I noticed is that clado sinks while plants float so you don't need to replace the bucket solution after each plant you just need to not make heavy water movements. Some plants are quite sensitive to H2O2 so test with a small patch to see if the plant melts. And it is easier to notice small strands of clado when the plants are dry.

Strange things I found while removing the plants, is that Wisteria was the reason why all my background plants were dying or barely ground, its roots frighteningly large. It had the background plants roots and some plants wrapped in its roots. The Java Moss was using the surround plants as support to spread and was killing any plants beneath it.

Here is the tank with only fish and substrate.


Here with plants back in.



Recommendation:
If your tank is covered all over it best to tear down the tank and start all over.

If you have one plant that is infected, turn off your filter, take a small bag cloth or any sort of bag that allows water to escape but not small clado strands and gently place the bag over the infected plant to avoid the spread of clado and pull while making sure the mouth of the bag is closed. place the bag and plant in the premix solution mechanically remove the clado. Rinse the plant with water then place on a piece of plastic to dry for a few hours. Check plants for clado and replant.

and use dry fertilizer instead of liquid, seachem flourish was the most contributing in algae growth between all the other liquid fertilizer.

I have yet to see if this has worked or not so I'll update in 2 weeks.

Last edited by sub-80; 03-19-2013 at 11:59 PM.. Reason: spelling
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