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Old 12-17-2012, 02:42 AM   #1
markstr
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API GH Test Kit questions....


Does anyone here use their GH test by chance ? I always have a problem matching the coloration of the test to their charts. This one in particular since they are saying ,
First turns Orange and then to Green. Well, I can't tell worth a darn LOL !!
First drop on mine is a Clear/ Orange color. More clear than anything else. Then after the 1st drop, it starts to just barely turn to maybe a slight tinge of green ??? How Dark is that
green suppose to be in order to get an actual reading ?? I generally don't trust the accuracy of these tests but just wanted to get some sort of Idea here if at all possible.
Love to hear some feedback on this.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:57 AM   #2
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Same here, but I find that to be true for sera test kits as well


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Old 12-17-2012, 03:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markstr View Post
Does anyone here use their GH test by chance ? I always have a problem matching the coloration of the test to their charts. This one in particular since they are saying ,
First turns Orange and then to Green. Well, I can't tell worth a darn LOL !!
First drop on mine is a Clear/ Orange color. More clear than anything else. Then after the 1st drop, it starts to just barely turn to maybe a slight tinge of green ??? How Dark is that
green suppose to be in order to get an actual reading ?? I generally don't trust the accuracy of these tests but just wanted to get some sort of Idea here if at all possible.
Love to hear some feedback on this.
The first drop is usually faint orange. When the color of the water sample changes, the color is usually a very light green. Once you see a change in color, you've reached your titration endpoint. In your case, since it only took you 2 drops to get the color change, it means you have a GH of 2 degrees.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster Fish View Post
The first drop is usually faint orange. When the color of the water sample changes, the color is usually a very light green. Once you see a change in color, you've reached your titration endpoint. In your case, since it only took you 2 drops to get the color change, it means you have a GH of 2 degrees.
I agree. If you had a higher hardness the color would be more intense, simply because you had a higher proportion of test liquid to water.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:06 AM   #5
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I agree. If you had a higher hardness the color would be more intense, simply because you had a higher proportion of test liquid to water.
That I can also relate to. So, overall my GH is extremly weak and I realize I will need to get it up a bit. I'd like to match it out basically to my KH @ 3-4 ppm........ Our Water here is
pretty soft out of the tap @ around 7.0
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #6
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Once the GH is a higher value (>3) the kits are easier to read.
With soft water place a white sheet of paper under the tube with good area light, look through the top with the cap removed after each drop (it helps a bunch).

Adding GH booster with each water change should solve any issues you are seeing. Plants use very little Ca and Mg compared to everything else so once levels are set around 4-5dGH readings should remain there until removed at the next WC.

The mineral content that effects GH and KH are independent of each other so no real "need" to match them. I routinely set mineral content here for around 5dGH and 2dKH (have for multiple years now).
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:35 PM   #7
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Try looking at the test tubes from the top down. You're looking through the entire tube so the color is more intense.

I agree these are hard to read. I have problems with color blindness - and because these are orange/green it certainly isn't easy for someone with a red/green deficiency which I believe is one of the most prevalent cases of color blindness.

I have found though, that after several drops there will become a definitive change... I just usually start off adding 3-5 drops right away, knowing that I'm not going to see a change.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:01 PM   #8
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Thanks so much here everyone for your input for starters !! Yes, I do use White Paper
to distinguish coloration in general. They key here which you all have mentioned is to get those levels up a bit so the Test will become more predominant in coloration which I will do..
Wkndracer: thanks for all your personal replies here as well on the subject .
Here's a picture of the Tank I am referring to btw..
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:41 PM   #9
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Wow looks great!! What plants?
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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Wow looks great!! What plants?
I agree, you have very nice looking plants and tank in general.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:41 AM   #11
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JUST got the GH booster from GLA.. GH readings prior have been around 1 actually so,
is adding say 1 tsp. to get up around the 3 range acceptable @ WC's only ????
Also, sometimes I get the urge to do more than one WC a week so if that's the case,
when I reset everything, same goes with the addition of the Booster I take it ......
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #12
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Yeah you only add the booster when you do water changes. It doesn't evaporate out, kind of like salt with marine/reef tanks.

So what are your plants in the tank? Must have missed the posts before... :P
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:56 PM   #13
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I've got 11GH and 6KH.

Is there value in still dosing Equilibrium after a water change?
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffHerr View Post
I've got 11GH and 6KH.

Is there value in still dosing Equilibrium after a water change?
GH is the measure of the amount of calcium and/or magnesium in water.
GH 11 is already high but it's still possible it's short of calcium or magnesium.
I wouldn't use Equilibrium because it contains both (and more of other
minerals) and would raise the GH even further with the substance I don't need.

I would see the water report or find a way to test if it lacks one or another.
Then dose just that.
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