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Old 11-28-2012, 12:51 AM   #16
ronaldvalente
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Note: I purchased just the regulator and drop checker from GLA. I got the tank locally, was cheaper for me that way.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:56 AM   #17
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Could you provide us with more information about tank? Depending on the size of your tank, you might be better off getting a 5 lb. CO2 tank and supplementing with Excel. If you have a smaller tank, then a smaller CO2 system might be fine, but anything larger than a 29G tank and the cost of the paintball CO2 system gets much more expensive in the long run. Here's a nice regulator and needle valve for cheap on Ebay:

[Ebay Link Removed]

I don't use a solenoid and run my CO2 24/7 without any issues. The only thing you have to do now is price out a CO2 cylinder and get it filled. I just recently bought a nice aluminum CO2 tank for $60 and filled it for $15 at my local beer and wine brewer store.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:58 AM   #18
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Well, darn. Guess I can't link Ebay. Sent you a PM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:01 AM   #19
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You can paste the item number from the link but not the entire link.

I don't know where you live OP, but if you have a used restaurant equipment place you can buy CO2 tanks cheap. I have 2 ten lb tanks I paid $25 each. Swap them out at airgas or haun welding supply @$18 per for full ones. There's no need to buy new because these guys will only give you recently tested safe tanks. True they aren't brand new shiny aluminum but who sees them besides you?
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:50 PM   #20
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If you want quality then GLA is a good option. I bought a regulator setup from him and the thing is solid. The tank is worth purchasing locally you'd probably get a better deal if you can haggle for it.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exv152 View Post
If you want quality then GLA is a good option. I bought a regulator setup from him and the thing is solid. The tank is worth purchasing locally you'd probably get a better deal if you can haggle for it.
Agreed, GLA is Quality++
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:01 PM   #22
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build one yourself, good luck.
The second system was around $150 to build, you get a double stage system and all good parts, the metering valve is Parker H3L high precision stainless steel, $450 retail.
The first system cost much more to build but it is a full stainless steel, will last forever.
read oldpunk and darkblade's threads to learn about the basic, then you can put up a system yourself.



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Old 11-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #23
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BettaTail: I don't see the solenoid in that picture, but that's ok anyway. I was interested in all the parts from where it normally would be (visually here) forward. The metering valve and the bubble counter setup. I have everything running now but the metering valve and bubble counter I have use nipples and I would like to have threaded. Can you advise? Do you sell these things? Can you please be specific (I looked at your thread in your signature and you list several but don't reference them to pix or urls so I don't know one from another). Thanks!!

Edit: I was looking at the second pic, and didn't notice the solenoid on the 1st one. I need the setup from the solenoid forward to the bubble counter to replace my limp ones that I zip tie up to keep them from falling!

Thanks again!
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
BettaTail: I don't see the solenoid in that picture, but that's ok anyway. I was interested in all the parts from where it normally would be (visually here) forward. The metering valve and the bubble counter setup. I have everything running now but the metering valve and bubble counter I have use nipples and I would like to have threaded. Can you advise? Do you sell these things? Can you please be specific (I looked at your thread in your signature and you list several but don't reference them to pix or urls so I don't know one from another). Thanks!!

Edit: I was looking at the second pic, and didn't notice the solenoid on the 1st one. I need the setup from the solenoid forward to the bubble counter to replace my limp ones that I zip tie up to keep them from falling!

Thanks again!
I do sell complete systems, but if it is possible, better to build one yourself.
pm me for what you have so far, I will give you direction where to find the rest parts.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:39 PM   #25
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Picture's worth a 1000 words, right? I just snapped this to show you. I just want to get rid of the vinyl hoses between the parts and have it look similar (not SS) to what you have in that first pic. Since I have to replace the needle valve and BC, I may as well get a good set.

Thanks again - if you need more info let me know!

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Old 11-28-2012, 05:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
Edit: I was looking at the second pic, and didn't notice the solenoid on the 1st one. I need the setup from the solenoid forward to the bubble counter to replace my limp ones that I zip tie up to keep them from falling!
The solenoid is the black box that is slightly to the left and above the regulator adjustment knob. There is a small wire that goes downwards from it as well. It is immediately before the Parker H3L metering valve and the 90 degree elbow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
Picture's worth a 1000 words, right? I just snapped this to show you. I just want to get rid of the vinyl hoses between the parts and have it look similar (not SS) to what you have in that first pic. Since I have to replace the needle valve and BC, I may as well get a good set.

Thanks again - if you need more info let me know!
Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

It looks like your solenoid has a hose fitting, which connects to a Fabco NV55 (with #10/32 to hose barb) fittings. This then goes to your bubble counter which also has a hose barb fitting?

Is the bubble counter one piece (or is there an adapter on the bottom)? You should be able to find bubble counters with 1/8" female NPT threading on eBay. Some people have had bad experiences with the JBJ bubble counters, while others have not; a good check valve (not the inline kind, but the type that actually has NPT ports) can prevent any backflow of liquid from the bubble counter into the needle valve and solenoid.

For the needle valve, there are many options available to you. I would not recommend mounting the NV55 using #10/32 to 1/8" adapters (which exist). This is because the #10/32 threading is very small, delicate and fragile, and a slight bump could break the adapters. You would be better off getting the newer Fabco NV-55-18 (which has 1/8" female NPT ports). Alternatively, you could just get the stainless steel Parker H3L that is still available on eBay (also has 1/8" female NPT ports).

For the solenoid, unless you can remove the hose fitting (perhaps it is a 1/8" NPT to hose fitting?) you may want to look into getting one that has a 1/8" NPT port as well.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
It looks like your solenoid has a hose fitting, which connects to a Fabco NV55 (with #10/32 to hose barb) fittings. This then goes to your bubble counter which also has a hose barb fitting?
Yes, the outlet of the solenoid is NPT. Then the barb fitting screwed into it. From there we're 100% barbs..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Is the bubble counter one piece (or is there an adapter on the bottom)? You should be able to find bubble counters with 1/8" female NPT threading on eBay. Some people have had bad experiences with the JBJ bubble counters, while others have not; a good check valve (not the inline kind, but the type that actually has NPT ports) can prevent any backflow of liquid from the bubble counter into the needle valve and solenoid.
Will look there then. Thanks for the heads-up on the JBJs. The BC has no adapter. The barb piece is screwed into the bottom and has a rubber ring washer in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
For the needle valve, there are many options available to you. I would not recommend mounting the NV55 using #10/32 to 1/8" adapters (which exist). This is because the #10/32 threading is very small, delicate and fragile, and a slight bump could break the adapters. You would be better off getting the newer Fabco NV-55-18 (which has 1/8" female NPT ports). Alternatively, you could just get the stainless steel Parker H3L that is still available on eBay (also has 1/8" female NPT ports).
I looked at the Parker. Beautiful but more $$ than I can swing right now. I am happy with the stability of the Fabco once it's dialed in. A little touchy at first but stays put once you've got it. The Fabco is $34+ on their store site. Is that a good price or should I shop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
For the solenoid, unless you can remove the hose fitting (perhaps it is a 1/8" NPT to hose fitting?) you may want to look into getting one that has a 1/8" NPT port as well.
The threaded port on the solenoid is doped up pretty good with white pipe dope. It looks removable, but I don't know how much torque I'll need to do it and whether adjacent material will handle said umph. I have a baggie of brass fittings and tubes that came with it. I didn't put this unit together. I bought it from a guy off craigslist when he got out of planted tanks, so for me there is a bit of mystery purely because I didn't go through the steps of assembling it myself. So far it's worked well, I'm just not liking the look. It's functional as is...just ugly ;-)

Thank you for your wisdom. I will educate myself more and make some decisions now.

Cheers
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:26 PM   #28
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Moose, I have the parts to change the fabco's input side over to 1/8 npt but don't have what you need for output side. Let me know if you want them.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:35 PM   #29
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Thanks OldPunk...Lemme get out of this monkey suit (just got home) and I'll get back to you.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
Yes, the outlet of the solenoid is NPT. Then the barb fitting screwed into it. From there we're 100% barbs..

The threaded port on the solenoid is doped up pretty good with white pipe dope. It looks removable, but I don't know how much torque I'll need to do it and whether adjacent material will handle said umph. I have a baggie of brass fittings and tubes that came with it. I didn't put this unit together. I bought it from a guy off craigslist when he got out of planted tanks, so for me there is a bit of mystery purely because I didn't go through the steps of assembling it myself. So far it's worked well, I'm just not liking the look. It's functional as is...just ugly ;-)
I would give it a go to see if you can remove the threaded port on the solenoid. I would try to put the entire contraption into a good bench vise, and then try to torque it off with an appropriate sized wrench.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
I looked at the Parker. Beautiful but more $$ than I can swing right now. I am happy with the stability of the Fabco once it's dialed in. A little touchy at first but stays put once you've got it. The Fabco is $34+ on their store site. Is that a good price or should I shop?
There is a seller on eBay that is selling the Parker H3L brand new, with shipping for about 30 USD. This is less than the Fabco that you are looking at.

Hope this helps,
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