The solenoid valve chase, after Parker H3L - Page 2
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:36 PM   #16
sspark
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Thanks!

Sent from my phone. Please excuse any typos.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:24 PM   #17
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Thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering one of these once the seller gets back to me with a shipping quote.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #18
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Is there anything wrong with my burkert 2822. It seems to be pretty hot at a few hours of operation. Hot as in hot to the touch, and my milwaukee is no where near as hot as the burkert. I can't even feel the milwaukee being warm, the burkert it's hot. running on epson 24vdc .8A.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:44 AM   #19
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^ I thought the lower power consumption could cause less heat. My Aquatic Life pulls power way more and it not hot. Now those asian DICI regulators got real hot real fast, might have to just trash the solenoid from them.

I was just about to post and ask how the heat is on these $50 dollar solenoid that retail for $200 that some guy on ebay is selling.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:47 AM   #20
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They just run hot. Not as hot as the 6011 mind you. It should still outlast just about anything out there. The nut that sticks out of the 6011 will burn you if you hold on to it for too long. The engineers at Burkert swear up and down that the heat they create will not harm the solenoid.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
They just run hot. Not as hot as the 6011 mind you. It should still outlast just about anything out there. The nut that sticks out of the 6011 will burn you if you hold on to it for too long. The engineers at Burkert swear up and down that the heat they create will not harm the solenoid.
I was quite concern when I accidently touched it. At first i thought that maybe because I left it on over night. but when I had it on a timer going 2 hrs into operation it got hot. The milwaukee after 6hrs is not even warmed at all for the one I have. But, it's good to know that it's normal for the burkert to get hot and not defective.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:10 AM   #22
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First, a 2 watt solenoid runs hot, but not as hot as a 4 watt, the 2 watt power consumption becomes heat eventually.

I am going to test the solenoid, to see the actual current that flow through the burkert 2822.
at this point I believe even it is a 2 watt(24V DC, 83mA), there is no circuit inside(the solenoid or the power supply) to limit the current, so when you use a 800mA max output power supply, means more current pass through the solenoid and create heat.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:15 AM   #23
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btw, any solenoid that I have experience with, if they are 1.5 watt or above, they are hot when touch, in different degree depends on how much the power consumption.

a clippard mouse solenoid never run hot....
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:02 PM   #24
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I have two 24VDC power supplies incoming next week: 400mA and 100mA
Will see if 2822 heat up with those.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:44 AM   #25
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Recently I purchased the Burkert 6011 from AquariumPlants.com. They wired a 3 pronged cord to it so I don't need an adapter. Can this be done to this solenoid as well?
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:25 AM   #26
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No. The difference is in the coil. The one you got from aquariumplants is 110vac. The 2822 on eBay is 24vdc. you'll fry it if you plug it straight into your wall without a converter.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:09 PM   #27
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does this come with instructions to wired it to the adapter?
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekaser View Post
does this come with instructions to wired it to the adapter?
As far as I know, no.

You just have to take your adapter, cut off the barrel plug, and then connect the wires to the correct terminals.
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
As far as I know, no.

You just have to take your adapter, cut off the barrel plug, and then connect the wires to the correct terminals.
Right, and I think polarity doesn't matter. 2822 has two identical wires coming out: white with blue stripe.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:19 PM   #30
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I installed Parker H3L about 2 weeks ago and it seems this metering valve would not fully close, I tried aligning the two ZEROs on the handle but the bubble rate would not fully stop.

The bubble rate I have currently is good even if this H3L would not close fully. But, I just wonder it cant be adjusted to zero rate bubble.

Is there anything I missed?
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