Good Regulator for the Price or can I get better?

[Darkblade48]

Originally Posted by ThatGuyWithTheFish

Can you link me to any? Specifics are important to me. If it's ebay you can just PM me a link, if that's okay with the mods.

Check your PM

[clang]

Originally Posted by ThatGuyWithTheFish

And where does one buy the parts to make a regulator?

Matt F. wrote an excellent article about building regulators. He used very good two stage regulators, Burkert solenoids, Ideal needle valves and Swagelok pipe fittings. There are lots of pictures and links to various items. I hope this helps you.

[Bettatail]

If you want to build a set, darkblade48 and oldpunk78 both have detail instructions, in FAQ and this section.

And there are some good parts available currently, really good price, on evilbay.
They are the Parker Hannifin high precision metering and low power consumption Burkert 2822 solenoid, both are stainless steel

[kevmo911]

Originally Posted by clang

Matt F. wrote an excellent article about building regulators. He used very good two stage regulators, Burkert solenoids, Ideal needle valves and Swagelok pipe fittings. There are lots of pictures and links to various items. I hope this helps you.

That, and many other how-to threads over at TBR are awesome reads for anybody who wants to build their own rig. However, those threads are designed by and for people who have some serious cash to blow on a rig. Using the regs they advocate, with the stainless Swagelok fittings they link, and the Burkert and Ideal valves will cost you several hundred dollars (best guess, $200-500 depending on brass/SS, check valve or no, bubble counter, and cost of Evilbay regulator).

You can dramatically cut that cost down. Brass works just as well as SS, there are a number of solenoids that work just as well as a Burkert, there are several models of metering valves that are more precise than an Ideal, barbs are much cheaper than compression fittings, and you can buy (much cheaper) interchangeable and identical, or almost identical, parts from Evilbay instead of Swagelok (Kor-lok, Tylok, Hylok, Let-lok, A-lok, D-lok, Dk-lok, Duolok to name a few). Heck, even Swagelok parts can be much cheaper on Evilbay. And, as far as the regulator itself, any functional dual stage reg with a 60 to 200 max psi gauge will work for our purposes (30 psi, or even down to 15 psi if you go with a reactor rather than diffuser). Remember, this is the gauge range I'm talking about, not actual max output pressure.

So, to answer an earlier question - where do you find the parts for a rig? - the answer is Evilbay. And it takes some work. But, financially, it can be a massive savings over buying the standard "stock" parts from regular online dealers.

Do some (a *lot*) of reading, making sure to take not of when "facts" are disputed by a number of people, and also taking note of the people who seem to actually know what they're talking about (not me - I lie!) and what they say. And then pick something you'd like to either copy or use as a base model, and figure out what all the parts are, and what you'd like to use.

The most difficult decision will be the solenoid - everybody has an opinion. The Burkert wins, no contest. Because it's the best? Well, no. Because it's very dependable, at a high, but not too high, price, and has 1/8" ports, and doesn't require any adapter - just a basic power cord. You can absolutely find solenoids that will run just as long, at a lower temperature, for a lower price, but the disadvantages are that almost nobody in this hobby has ever heard of them (so almost nobody can recommend them), and you'll need to spend $3-5 on an AC/DC adapter, and then connect two wires with a method of your choice. Price difference? Maybe $15-30 all told, plus an extra 20 minutes of your time. Worth it? Depends on whether you're a "sticks and rocks??? F*** that, I'm not paying for that s***" kind of person.

Metering valve, right now, get a Parker H3L from Evilbay. You won't find anything of that value (as in, the value it has for our purposes, not any sort of financial value) at that price ever again. It kicks the crap out of anything that anybody here or at TBR has ever advocated using, and is (currently) cheaper than pretty much every single one of them.

Okay, this started as a simple commentary on the TBR reads, but it evolved. Sorry

[ekaser]

ok. I bought the regulator, the solenoid and the needle valve. The regulator is a CGA 590. Where do I get the fittings to put all this together? I am sure I will need an adapter to connect the regulator to a co2 tank.

Originally Posted by OVT

Let's go for a Lexus:

2-stage brand new SS regulator (Item 261122941006) ~$110 shipped
Top of the line brand new SS solenoid (150936952401) ~$43 shipped
Top of the line brand new SS needle valve (130798547411) ~$28 shipped
JBJ-style BC: ~$12
Power converter ~$6
NPT Brass connectors: say, $30

Grand Total: ~$230

You can build a Camry for ~$50 less

[oldpunk78]

Hit up a local welding supply for the cga-320 nut and nipple and just about any well stocked hardware store should have the rest of the pipe fittings you'll need. I wrote a how-to that might help you with assembly:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=148509

[Darkblade48]

Welding stores, as oldpunk78 mentioned, should carry the CGA320 nut. However, if you have stores that cater to home beer-making/beer-brewing, I would check them as well.

I got my CGA320 nuts from a local beer-brewing store, and it was cheaper (even with shipping included, by a few dollars) than from the welding store.

[ronaldvalente]

I highly recommend Green Leaf Aquarium regulators. I got the Primo and have been EXTREMELY impressed with pre and post sales support! Orlando is fantastic!

[ekaser]

Thanks for the help. I will pursue the change from 590 to 320. I hope the parts that OVT recommended are good (I assume they are) because I bought what he recommended. I believe that if I am going to do this I only want to do it once. A Lexus works for me.

Thanks OVT. I will post a picture of my set up once it is up and running.

Ed

[m00se]

Originally Posted by kevmo911

...good stuff...

Okay, this started as a simple commentary on the TBR reads, but it evolved. Sorry

I know it's early and I'm on my second 16 oz. espresso, but I can't for the life of me figure out what TBR means! hahahaha!


Oh getting old sucks!

[oldpunk78]

The Barr Report, I think.

[ekaser]

I bought the Matheson 3800. I changed the canister connection to CGA 320. What do I need to do to connect the Burkert 6011 to the Matheson 3800? The Matheson has 2 valves. Do I remove the second valve? I cannot determine the fitting needed to make this connection. Thanks for any help.

[oldpunk78]

You're going to need at least a 1/4 x 1/8 npt hex reducing nipple. Your out port is usually the one at the 9 o'clock position. Below that is usually a relief valve or a plug or both. I can't remember the porting off hand so a pic would be cool.

[Darkblade48]

I hope I am correct in assuming that this is the regulator you have?



Or at least something similar?

If you are talking about the valve on the left hand side, you will need to first remove it.

Then as oldpunk78 mentioned, you will likely need the 1/4" to 1/8" reducing nipple. If the reducer does not have a 1/8" male NPT end, you will need to get a 1/8" male hex nipple as well so that you can connect it to the Burkert 6011.

[reel1090]

Hi,
I am using a Milwaukee regulator with bubble counter and solenoid. So far it has been reliable. What will a more expensive system buy me?