Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor

[m00se]

Don't get the big blue or clear units. You want the 20" tall REGULAR size diameter ones. The big blue is twice as wide and has 1" in/outs.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html

This is the one I have. It's the clear one. The blue ones are about $28 iirc. Add a wrench and mounting bracket, as they aren't included at those prices.

[TexasCichlid]

Originally Posted by m00se

Don't get the big blue or clear units. You want the 20" tall REGULAR size diameter ones. The big blue is twice as wide and has 1" in/outs.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html

This is the one I have. It's the clear one. The blue ones are about $28 iirc. Add a wrench and mounting bracket, as they aren't included at those prices.

Ordered. What sort of fittings did you end up using? I'd like a T to input the CO2 as opposed to drilling the top. I know the design has evolved a bit since the beginning and it seems like everyone does something a little different.

[m00se]

I use a Mag 5 fractionating pump (made for skimmers) with the intake they come with. Looks like this:



You could easily bring the line from your CO2 bottle up into the aquarium and stick it into the intake pipe and do the exact same thing. When I did it that way I cut a 1" long piece of wooden chopstick and stuffed it into the end of the CO2 line. That wasn't necessary either but I was trying to make it a little quieter.

[Sethjohnson30]

Originally Posted by m00se

Don't get the big blue or clear units. You want the 20" tall REGULAR size diameter ones. The big blue is twice as wide and has 1" in/outs.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html

This is the one I have. It's the clear one. The blue ones are about $28 iirc. Add a wrench and mounting bracket, as they aren't included at those prices.

Why should you not use the big blue, I need 1" outputs for my fx5 would I have Any issues with my set up?

[leros]

I bought the Pentek 20" clear housing off of Amazon. I think it's the same filter that you guys are linking to.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061BS6RG

The Pentek is only a 4" wide housing. If that doesn't work for my flow, there is a 7" wide housing that I saw in various places.

Amazon link for the larger housing:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061XS9S0

[m00se]

Originally Posted by Sethjohnson30

Why should you not use the big blue, I need 1" outputs for my fx5 would I have Any issues with my set up?

It would be fine in your case to use the wider unit. I have mine in a separate loop from my FX5. Just making sure that he got the 20" tall one, whichever he chose.

[Sethjohnson30]

Yeah I'm still trying to decide if I want it on its own loop or on my fx5. How much do you guys think my flow will be affected?

[m00se]

When I was making the decision, the Mag 5 was on sale for $55 and the filter housing was $5 less than now, so about $38. With the additional hose and hardware it came to within a spit-shot of the price of the bigger housing, so I went for it. I can't tell you it will make a significant difference in the flow because I have no empirical data to refer to. I'm sure it will but how much I don't know.. My gut tells me "not much" but then I don't know your exact setup or requirements. I can tell you that in my system, the filter adds very little resistance. Add elbows and barbs that have reduced IDs and it may or may not be worth worrying about. One way to find out is to try it and let us know! If designed with the thought that you might have to go discreet loop, the parts can be repurposed to that end and you're only out the time and effort.

[Sethjohnson30]

The only downside I'm seeing to a closed loop is more equipment in the tank... But that doesn't really bother me. My tank used to have no equipment-everything was inline. It was a pita. It's not like anybody came over and said " wow there is no equipment in the tank"

Since then I have sold my lily pipes(which cleaning them makes them not worth having) I also sold my atomizer(worthless) and I still have an almost new hydor 300w chillin on a shelf. I'm now using the stock fluval input and out put with one of those tiny little terra heaters they sell at Walmart(I think it's a 25w) and I am 10x happier with it. I honestly don't know why that heater works so well in my 72g, but it does and I recommend it. It's small and easy to hide, it works great.

My tank is just starting to grow in again after a major rescape and equipment upgrade(replaced xp2 with an fx5)

I have the fluval running full bore.this tank will be heavily planted much like it was before I'm currently getting 600gph with my set up. I'm not sure that a flow reduction would really hurt me....but since my huge bga break out due to lack of flow I have become a flow nazi.

before the tear down
These are how it was planted before. I plan I plan on planting it heavier than before

this is now(lots of room to grow)

[TexasCichlid]

I thought one of the main appeal of Cerges was not much reduction in flow. My Sera Flore 500 is killing my flow and that's why I was thinking of switching.


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[TexasCichlid]

Well my filter housing came in. Bought this one. It is gigantic.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html

Will be overkill on my tank but I want no CO2 bubbles. Period. Can anyone post or PM me the materials I need for this thing to hook up to 5/8 tubing, including the T junction for the CO2? I've not done any plumbing or the such so this is a bit foreign.

[m00se]

List of materials (might miss something - it always happens!). These are just pix I took off various sites and they're a mishmash of colors and sizes due to my inherent laziness. ;-) Please do look in Lowes or Home Depot for these items because all of them are usually there and you can make a fun game out of finding them! Lowes has a better selection of parts like this, as HD has decided that allocating real estate to $2 parts doesn't make them rich enough anymore.

Good luck and keep asking if you need to.


2- 5/8" male barb to 3/4" NPT male threaded, for the house filter in/out:



1 5/8" T barb with male NPT, for the CO2 injection:



1 matching female NPT to barb the size of your CO2 hose (3/16" is standard) This one might end up being brass, and that's ok:



Teflon Tape to wrap around threads (6 turns minimum, clockwise to the threads so that it stays on when you tighten the fittings:





Metal Hose Clamps (as many as needed):



One First Aid Kit:




Ok, I think that should hopefully get you started.

[TexasCichlid]

Moose. Thanks for taking so much time to help. I will report back with my results.


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[DaTrueDave]

Originally Posted by TexasCichlid

Well my filter housing came in. Bought this one. It is gigantic.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/w...lear-pr20.html

Will be overkill on my tank but I want no CO2 bubbles. Period. Can anyone post or PM me the materials I need for this thing to hook up to 5/8 tubing, including the T junction for the CO2? I've not done any plumbing or the such so this is a bit foreign.

I just bought the same housing from the same place. I'm going to be looking on Amazon.com for the pieces that Moose listed and, if I remember, I'll list them here with links.

[TexasCichlid]

Originally Posted by DaTrueDave

I just bought the same housing from the same place. I'm going to be looking on Amazon.com for the pieces that Moose listed and, if I remember, I'll list them here with links.

I would appreciate that. I will try Lowes but ours is very busy all the time and poorly staffed/stocked.


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